r3240sx

Sounds like rod knock to me. Forgive me for not reading through the thread, but have you confirmed that it's not rod knock? It could also be piston slap, I had a bad knock noise from what I thought was my head after going to the track once. I could have sworn it was coming from the lifters... I rebuild them, put them back in, and the noise remained. A couple weeks later the motor started smoking really bad, and I took it apart and found a destroyed piston, I'm pretty sure the noise I heard was piston slap. Good luck, hope you resolve it. -Max

You're right, I'm from the states, and Kyles manifolds are about half to one third the price of the Full race manifolds, even though they're only 2 states away from me. My 6 boost collector looks much better than that, and I dont know why you'd want a stainless manifold anyway, the heat expansion characteristic is definately not ideal for a component like a turbo manifold that sees at much heat as it does. I think the only advantage of stainless is that they're prettier, and maybe lighter? I'm not sure about that though.

Unfortunately I cant provide you guys with numbers yet, as my car was stolen shortly after I finished the turbo upgrade. The only thing I've had time to do is drive it and be happy I have it back, no tuning whatsoever. The impatient lot guy at my dealership wanted to make a preview video of my new setup however. Keep in mind, I'm not flat out in either of these clips... My wastegate pressure's set to .4 bar, boost controller turned off, and I've got a nasty misfire at around 5800 rpm. In both clips, I'm shifting at 5500, basically just so you can hear the car. Sort of bums me out that the camera distorts when I get on the throttle, doesnt sound near as good in the video as it does in person.. Hope you enjoy it anyway... -Max

Yes, My car was recovered!!! Where it was dumped, the neighbors said it had been sitting there since about the date it was stolen. I guess the crackhead just wanted a ride to the next town, or perhaps he got spooked when I saw him backing out my car, and chasing him a few blocks with a club made him decide it was best to just dump the car somewhere. Either way, God will make sure he gets whats coming to him, in the mean time, I got my baby back.. And she's in almost the same shape she was stolen in. Holy crap am I gratefull. Now for tuning and enjoying the fruits of my labor! -Max

Hey guys, I've been following this thread for quite a while now, and I finally have the chance at cracking 260rwkw. My setup is an oil line and a cold pipe away from running. Anyway, I hope you like it. Holset HX35 (8 blade, wastegate welded) Turbonetics Deltagate 6 boost Fwd mount twin scroll manifold 440cc's Constructive criticism or complements are appreciated! Thanks! -Max

Your best bet for response at that power level would be an hy35. Although probably not the most efficient setup, as the Hy only has a small 9cm housing. It will spool very fast and make the power you want, however, taking advantage of the larger 12cm divided housing will make the setup more efficient, slightly laggier, but with less restriction on the top end. I just had a 6boost divided manifold made, and I'm mating it to an 8 blade HX35w with a 12cm divided housing. This is on an rb20det with 256 cams. Just looking for 350whp. I'll post my results here when my car's on the road, to give more some real life results/examples. Edit: oh yeah. Find a turbo on ebay, I got my 8 blade Hx35w for $450 shipped, remanufactured.

My EGT's will go over 900C if I stay in the throttle long enough. I have a greddy EGT gauge, the probe is mounted about 3-4 inches from the head right after cylinder 6's runner. This pretty much freaks me out. It can only be retarded timing, or a lean condition contributing to the high EGT's right? I'd love to get this sorted out. Wont 950C+ start to melt cast pistons?

BTW, stock valve lift is either 7.5 or 7.8, I think they are 7.5 but I've seen both figures. Yours are 1mm higher than stock, and that will not require upgraded valve springs unless you rev it out pretty high. I have tomei 256/256 8.5/8.5's and I rev to 8, have been for a while now. Stock springs. I too am curious as to how the 272's work, as mine are pretty mild. Good luck -Max

There's a new one on the rb20 dyno thread with a t04z actually.. Stock block, Stock cams, pistons, rods, ebay turbo manifold. 28+ psi boost 370rwkw maxing out the speed on the dyno. He said power was still climbing. The RB20 is so strong for its size, it amazes me. -Max

A solenoid type boost controller made a world of difference for me. By the way, that much boost through that turbo WILL melt your pistons if you're only running stock injectors, please turn the boost down for now!

Also, HKS lists a T04S, T04R, and T04Z on their website. What kind of turbo is yours?

Holy crap, is it possible to get us any more details on the motor? Do you know if their's any head work done to the motor? Or perhaps the lift on the cams? What sort of exhaust/inlet manifolds? Very impressive, great work! -Max

It seems as though a .63 AR housing, or maybe even the .78 twin scroll would do wonders for this setup. Is there any plans to put a smaller exhaust housing on in the future? Great work

I hate to be an ass, but why are you posting this on a skyline forum?

You need to tune with any setup for it to work to its potential. I personally would add fuel somehow for safety, at the very least, with and rb25 turbo. When my roommate had his 260 whp tune, I believe he only had an SAFC. Seems like that or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be sufficient for a small turbo like that.