mikel

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About mikel

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    Brisbane

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    97 skyline r33 GTSt ser 2
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    mike

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  1. Serious question - why did you swap out the lock bar instead of replacing the ball joints and keeping the old lock bar? It sounds like the OP needs to address more than just an install of a HICAS lock bar if the ball joints are already worn which would allow the rear wheels to flop around even with a lock bar... ....slightly off topic - if a lock bar is installed while the HICAS ball joints are still in good condition, would it be correct that the HICAS ball joints do so little work after the lock bar is installed (particularly in relation to all the other suspension components) that they're unlikely to wear out? or would they wear out at the same rate as without a lock bar? Hi Ash, In a different thread it was highlighted to me how good the factory wheel bearings are, so to flog the bearings on one wheel indicates a problem that needs addressing - it could be just the HICAS ball joints, or something else as others have already mentioned in this thread. Consider getting a suspension specialist to check over your rear end - many will quote for free, then you can post up what they recommend. Wear and small alignment issues can make a big difference. After I installed my HICAS lock bar and lifted the car on the coilovers, I got a local suspension place to do a front and rear wheel alignment, requesting a couple of mm of "Toe In" on the rear, as per recommendations on this forum (very good drivers often use 0mm "Toe In" on the rear - bumblies like me are best off with a few mm of rear "Toe In"). On my next track day, the car didn't feel quite right, and I even managed to spin a couple of times in the same spot after coming through a low spot on the track with some water. Very soon after I installed @Sydneykid's suspension package, and had a different suspension shop do the alignment. When I picked the car up, the suspension guy mentioned that when the car came in the rear had a few mm of "Toe Out" on the rear, that he'd now adjusted to "Toe In". I thought this may have been me not tightening the connections properly on the HICAS lockbar, and he pointed out that if they had loosened off, that would increase "Toe In", not "Toe Out" - the first suspension place had adjusted the "rear toe" in the wrong direction! - "Toe Out" instead of "Toe In". As per my previous post, I would recommend deleting the HICAS with a lock bar, but get the rest of the rear suspension checked at the same time, and replace parts that are worn, including worn bushes. Interestingly IME, Nolathane bushes appear to have a relatively short life - they're good for performance, and required over OEM rubber bushes if "offset" bushes are desired to improve angles at the front end - but they seem to wear out faster. Fine for me - my car doesn't do many miles - and I'm happy to swap Nolathane with Nolathane when bushes wear to keep the handling taught - others I know (not Skyline owners) have gone back to OEM rubber bushes over Nolathane - particularly where offset bushes aren't needed (I'm not aware of rubber bushes being available in different offsets like Nolathane bushes are). Your concern is the rear end - no offset bushes are required there - your call on Nolathane or rubber replacement bushes. cheers Mike
  2. have you got an update? was the upgrade fit up easy? how are the Intima pads? cheers, Mike
  3. A different perspective is my recent experience, where even with minimal horsepower (~205 KW), a bad tune and tuner wrecked my bottom end. It was never a good idea to slap a NEO head onto an R33 bottom end, but 2 workshops (the 1st workshop put the head on and dyno'd it, then another did further work and dyno'd it) never mentioned anything about not putting a NEO head on an R33 bottom end. 2 years later and the compression across the cylinders was all over the place and the bottom end was wrecked. Probably less due to tune than tuner - but they go together. The cautionary tale is that these engines (any engine) can be damaged with poor tunes and tuners - even at modest horsepower. @Chris90 and many others have shown that the standard RB25 can take significant horsepower when tuned well. In Chris's case - he knows he's pushing the boundaries - well done - after all if one pops he just sources another! cheers Mike
  4. wow $20K spent on bolt ons and keep an "un-opened" motor - is that just for bragging rights? Neo motors are stronger than R33 RB25s "out of the box" so that's the way to go in this context. As other's have said above, "it's all about the tune" to keep the motor safe (safe-ish) at those HP figures - and running E85 (E87? I don't know what that is?) as you've done is the way to go for ethanol's resistance to detonation. Impressive horsepower - well done! cheers Mike
  5. Inertia = mass x radius^2 Because the radius is squared, even if the larger wheel is lighter, it only takes a small increase in size (radius) for the larger turbine to have a higher moment of inertia. cheers Mike
  6. Anthony's first words when I spoke with him after getting home were, "oh no"...and, "that's a dash out job"... But even in the depths of a Brisbane "winter", not having a heater is manageable, and it gives me an excuse to visit Anthony again if I decide to upgrade the turbo actuator! It's certainly not wiping the grin off my face having the car working better than ever. there is one really good thing about Commodores - every 6cyl VL is an RB30 upgrade for a Skyline in the making! cheers Mike
  7. Hi Torques, Thanks for posting that - a bit of history there. From Robo's 2004 post: "Down low it is virtually eye for eye with the stock turbo, above 5000rpm is where it improves. But, when running 17psi in earlier testing, midrange before 4500rpm was pulling like a train. At 100k in 4th, you could just boot it and it would take off, nice!!"... My actuator is opening too soon, so the 2530 on my car is laggier than stock - but once the boost kicks in around 3500 - 4000 rpm it pulls very hard. I'm sure there's a bunch of modern turbos that perform way better than the 2530, both faster spool up and higher flow, but for an old turbo, where streetable power up to around 230kw is sufficient, they work great - mine brings a smile to my face every time I hop in the car. cheers, Mike
  8. I think they're a great turbo for a street setup as long as you only want 220 - 240KW, although obviously getting old now. I just had mine tuned by Anthony ( @Guilt-Toy) and it makes 234KW. Mine tails off also, and it's running only 13PSI up near redline - it's not a big turbo after all, and would be running out of flow at high RPM lol, I picked up my car from Newcastle on Saturday and drove to a mates place in Kyogle. On Sunday morning we did some tractor work on his tree plantation - the Skyline feels substantially different to my mates tractor I completely agree with this cheers Mike
  9. omfg - the car is awesome - way better than ever before and quantums above what it was after the NEO head went onto the R33 bottom end. Anthony picked me up at Newcastle airport and he gave the car several squirts - from the passenger seat it felt amazing. We put a fresh tank of 98 into it and I took over - the acceleration on boost was ballistic - the tyres are quite new, but budget, and must be awfully close to their limit on a dry road in a straight line when the boost comes on. It's sooo good having a working tacho again, but I'm still getting used to the boost coming on so hard when I nail it in 1st and 2nd, so hanging on and watching the road is a bit of a priority - somewhere between 3000 - 4000rpm the thing just takes off. i now understand what Anthony meant when he said on the phone last week it's a bit laggy - it's always been that way, and likely made worse by the unknown aftermarket cams that came with the NEO head, but previously the boost built much slower - I thought this was "normal" behaviour for a turbo Skyline, never having driven any other Skyline. With Anthony's tune he's got the boost on as early as possible with the current lazy waste gate actuator on the HKS 25/30 turbo and Turbotech bleed valve setup. The drive up the highway from Newcastle to Grafton was the expected boring drive keeping to the speed limit - every other car was staying exactly on the speed limit, so I was too paranoid to do the usual 115 - 119km/h in the 110km/h zones (do you get pinged in NSW for only a few km over the limit?). I filled up with fuel in Coffs Harbour, and got a respectable 11.5 litres/100km fuel consumption Newcastle to Coffs - not that fuel economy is a focus for me or most that drive Skylines, but pretty good for a car that just had 550 injectors installed - clearly Anthony spent a bunch of time on this aspect of the tune also! Grafton to Kyogle on the Summerland Way is a fantastic drive, and this is where I couldn't take the grin off my face. A well maintained road with beautiful sweepers and many straight sections with good visibility for overtaking - knocking it back to 4th to overtake was always sufficient, but doing it in 3rd was waaaay more fun - and clearly the less time you spend on the wrong side of the road is by far the safest . This new machine of mine is an overtaking weapon! - it was good before, but has now reached a new level - it's so in the sweet spot of power and torque between 80 and 110km/h - choose your gear for grin factor. I stopped in Kyogle overnight at a mate's place, and just for fun we took the car over the weighbridge at the dump to drop off some recyclables. approx 1/2 tank fuel (say 30kg) 2 people, one much fatter (me) than the other (say 190kg total) some tools + recyclables (say 10Kg) Total weight 1.64 tonne - remove 230kg (2 people + stuff + fuel) = 1.41 tonne or 1410kg - 20kg higher than what I've read quoted for the R33 Skyline of 1390kg (likely "dry") - close enough! The drive back from Kyogle to Brisbane this morning was great. Kyogle to the top of the range before crossing the border to QLD is the best part - down the hill into QLD I got stuck behind some motorcyles. It was at the traffic lights through Jimboomba (between Beaudesert and Brisbane) that I got a better handle on the "laggy" thing Anthony had mentioned. The Beaudesert Highway though Jimboomba is single lane each way, but the traffic lights have a sneaky left lane option that reverts to single lane about 50m-100m or so after the lights. I took the sneaky left lane to get to the front, but being in "don't attract attention mode", I didn't give it a lot getting off the line and pop it into 2nd, but there's a commodore in the right hand lane next to me that wants to have a go - we're side by side until somewhere between 3 and 4K rpm in 2nd gear on my now working tacho (thanks Anthony) and I stopped looking at the tacho and focussed on the road as I knew what was coming next. Needless to say I chopped the commodore well before the left lane disappeared. I couldn't be happier with the work done by Anthony! On this morning's drive to the tip in Kyogle my mate noticed a drip in the passenger foot well - nothing to do with Anthony's work - the heat exchanger in the cabin has developed a leak - all bad - from Kyogle to Brisbane there was a constant drip - nothing serious enough to require topping up the radiator, but on discussing with Anthony when I got home it's not an easy job. Living in QLD approaching summer I can just blank the hoses off in the engine bay as a quick fix while I work out the proper fix - a minor glitch in overall Skyline happiness! cheers Mike
  10. Hi Anthony - I can't wait to drive it. I've been very happy with Gary's @Sydneykid suspension setup - so much softer than the Jap coilovers the car came with, and quicker on the track. with that smooth power curve, I think I'll just drive it for a while and see how it feels - but a new actuator and another drive to Newcastle may be on the cards. cheers Mike
  11. I wish that I'd posted the dyno graphs back in 2007, as I can't find them now, but I suspect that the 235 rwKW back in 2007 was likely the dyno reading a little high, given it had standard injectors and fuel pump at the time... Fast forward to 2017, the engine is now a NEO top and bottom with "unknown" aftermarket cams, R33 sidefeed 555 injectors, Walbro 155 LPH fuel pump, turbotech bleed valve, PowerFC, steel suction pipe, HKS 25/30 turbo. 234 rwKW - tuned by Anthony (Guilt Toy) at EFI Performance Tuning in Newcastle https://www.facebook.com/tunedbyanthony/ cheers, Mike
  12. the car is ready to pick up tomorrow - can't wait! Anthony also fixed my dodgy tacho! here's the dyno graph NEO top and bottom, R33 side feed 555 injectors, "unknown" cams (but not standard - they came with the NEO head), Turbotech bleed valve, new Walbro fuel pump, new custom stainless suction pipe after the AFM. Beautiful power curve - Anthony thinks the actuator on the HKS 2530 turbo is a bit "lazy" and he could bring the power on a bit earlier as the gate is creeping open earlier than it should - but that's a project for another day... I can't wait to drive it! cheers Mike
  13. Many install a HICAS lock bar, but if your ends are worn you may need to replace them 1st (I did mine 10 years ago and don't remember how it all went together) Having a computer decide where to point the rear wheels isn't great IMO HICAS is short for the computer saying "Help I Can't Actually Steer" Mike
  14. the coils are Neo Splitfires. the injectors were standard R33 sidefeeds Anthony is just about finished, and he's done a fuel pump and injector upgrade (drop in 555cc sidefeeds) along the way. The plan is to fly down Saturday morning to pick it up. The drive home should be lots of fun - likely drive the highway to Grafton then take the Summerland way to Kyogle and stop at a mates overnight to get some twistys home to Brisbane Sunday morning. cheers Mike
  15. I was very dubious of any benefit of a lightened flywheel when I replaced my clutch a while ago - after all you have the rest of the drive train hanging off it, what difference can a few kg's in the flywheel make? Well to my surprise it certainly made a difference in 1st and 2nd to how quick the car would rev out - I'd not understood the effect of reducing rotational inertia on the front side of the gearbox in low gears . Street cars need mass in their flywheels for drivability but IMHO some mas reduction is a good thing cheers mike