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About mikel

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    Rank: RB25DE

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    97 skyline r33 GTSt ser 2
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  1. I was very dubious of any benefit of a lightened flywheel when I replaced my clutch a while ago - after all you have the rest of the drive train hanging off it, what difference can a few kg's in the flywheel make? Well to my surprise it certainly made a difference in 1st and 2nd to how quick the car would rev out - I'd not understood the effect of reducing rotational inertia on the front side of the gearbox in low gears . Street cars need mass in their flywheels for drivability but IMHO some mas reduction is a good thing cheers mike
  2. I got the family car back on the road only to discover a leaking radiator - so I put a new one of those in also - hopefully nothing else will go wrong in the next little while so I can get the Skyline back on the road. I've been discussing with Anthony (Guilt Toy) using his bottom end, and on Saturday I drove down to Newcastle and dropped the car off to get Anthony's bottom end with my head installed. I've been reading about Anthony's exploits and tuning skills for years - great to meet him finally, and the other guys in Newcastle that will be involved in the work to get my Skyline working properly again. There's quite a community of "like minded car enthusiasts" that Anthony knows in Newcastle - not too many mechanic workshops I know of would have a bunch of people there on a Saturday afternoon keen to discuss my Skyline issues. Anthony clearly has a "tuner's ear", as I took him for a drive and he could hear the detonation in my car way before I could. Hopefully my head is OK and can go straight onto Anthony's bottom end - we'll see. If it all works I'll have a NEO motor in my R33 soon. cheers Mike
  3. cheers Andy, most helpful thanks mike
  4. Hi Ken, I'll preface this post with the point that most of my audio experience is with home and pro audio not car audio, but most I say below should still apply... correct - if your speakers are 4ohm, then in parallel they (should) present a 2ohm load to the amp - and based on the quick skim I had of the amp specs this should be OK. That said, a speaker's impedance varies with frequency - it has a peak impedance at the resonant frequency of the driver, then drops back and rises slowly as the inductance of the voicecoil increases with frequency. Driver specs don't really provide enough information (eg 8 ohm vs 4 ohm) as to what their minimum impedance is, but it's a start. "Normal" home/pro audio drivers are typically 8ohm or 4ohm - maybe some car audio drivers are specced at 2ohms - I wouldn't know. In home audio and pro audio any speaker/driver that dips below 2ohms impedance would be regarded as a "difficult" load for any amplifier to drive. You should never connect a load impedance to an amp lower than what the amp can drive - the output stage of the amp will go into protection mode (if you're lucky) or fail. If your drivers are 4ohm, not 2ohm, start with the wiring diagram you provided - it should be fine. If your drivers are 2 ohm (does car audio have 2ohm drivers?), then you could wire them in series as opposed to parellel and present a 4ohm load to the amp - this would be fine as far as not overloading the output stage of the amp, but may require tweaking of volumes on amp channels to get the balance right between mains and sub (which is required anyway if adding a new sub) In reality you need the ability to change the volume front to rear (ignoring the sub for the moment) to get the balance right - so this is a good idea. Running front and rear speakers in series or parallel won't allow volume tweaking front/rear. Based on my (limited) knowledge of car setups, your front speakers are more important - so running the fronts off the amp and the rears off the head unit is the best approach - as you've suggested. Whichever way you go you should plan around 2 channels bridged for the sub with the following points as suggestions: the spec of the sub says 94dB at 1W (in car) - I suspect that 94db is measured at 60-80Hz or so, not 20 - 30Hz - hence you'll want the extra power from bridging 2 channels of the amp for a bridged amp (2 amp channels in bridge mode), each amp channel "sees" half the speaker load, so for a 4ohm speaker connected to a pair of amps connected in bridged mode - each amp sees a 2 ohm load - make sure the amps can handle the load (in this case a 2 ohm load from a 4ohm speaker) be very careful of EQ boost at low frequencies - in car audio you get significant cabin gain that works in your favour, but even with that, in the bottom end where the driver/box response is dropping off, adding EQ can consume available amplifier headroom very quickly and force the amp into clipping. cheers Mike
  5. in your diagram you're wiring 2 x 2ohm speakers in paralllel - that's a 1ohm load - my quick review of the amp says it can handle a 2 ohm load not 1 ohm. Even at low volume, a 1ohm load could put the amp into protection mode due to the high current required with such a low impedance load if the drivers were 4ohm each it would be ok looks like you need 2 channel input, not 4, (your ? above) and get 3 channels out - left, right and bridged sub - left and right crossed to sub at 80Hz cheers Mike
  6. ALDI pre-paid SIM cards last for 12 months before the credit expires - and they use the Telstra network - perfect for this application. Mike
  7. LOL, clearly I don't buy enough stuff off the internet - I had to look up BNIB! ("Brand New In Box" for those like me) Mike
  8. is your son currently using the kicker amp for his car stereo? if he is it may not have 2 spare channels to bridge for the sub. If the amp has 2 channels spare then as @inmaniac says - bridge them cheers Mike
  9. Old thread, but very useful to me today... the hand brake adjuster is at the bottom of the whole hand brake shoe assembly that sits inside the rear rotors. With the rotor off you'll see the adjustment wheel - with the rotor on you need to rotate the hub (with the rubber plug removed from the rotor) so the hole is at the bottom and use a flat blade screwdriver to adjust the wheel the appropriate clicks - as above - rotate upwards until the hand brake shoes bind, then back off (rotate down) 5-6 clicks. As above, when you have the rotors off, give the mechanism a good spray with Brake Cleaner. cheers Mike
  10. put the new rear rotors and pads on the car today @bbenny your thread: was very helpful - especially the tips for the 2 M8 x 1.25 thread bolts to get the old rotors off, and the adjustment of the hand brake. I went to the local hardware first to source the M8 bolts, but they couldn't confirm the thread was 1.25 - they had M8 bolts, but only the bolt length was quoted. Fortunately there's a bolt shop not too far away open on a Saturday - when I asked them they said 1.25 thread is standard on M8 bolts - but I'm glad I checked. The whole job went remarkably smoothly... this worked fine - cheers @Hadouken - didn't need to crack the bleeder until bleed time at the end. I recall a few decades ago changing the front rotors/pads on an XA Falcon, the Skyline is soooo much easier. I seem to recall not being able to change the Falcon pads without removing the caliper - maybe it's possible - but you couldn't pop the pads out of the back side of the caliper...and replacing the front rotors on the Falcon meant mucking with wheel bearings! (the front rotor on an XA falcon contains the bearings). It does bring a question to mind - when should you replace wheel bearings on Skylines? cheers Mike
  11. Hi The 2 hoses connecting to the power steering reservoir are old and one is weeping Other than getting oil/petrol suitable hose of the correct size are there any specifics I need to know to swap these out? Cheers Mike
  12. On my list of things to do is to remove the cover and note the part numbers of the coils - from what Scott says they should be NEO coils - but I don't recall any discussion that new coil packs went on when the NEO head was done - it's possible the NEO head still had coils. I've got to get the family car back on the road as a priority - the new alternator arrived today, so that goes on this weekend. cheers Mike
  13. I've been gazumped for the moment as the family car has broken down and it takes priority for fixing (cash and time) - although it looks like I'll be able to reduce the Ford quote of $2K down to around $500 - $600 doing the work myself, but it's certainly slowed down the Skyline fix. If my NEO head and RB25 Block bores haven't been damaged, this is not a bad option - cheers Johnny. I would nearly have a NEO motor - particularly the pistons I need and the stronger NEO rods The key thing will be finding a reputable/capable tuner/mechanic/engine builder to do the work and consult with them - I've had some recommendations, but haven't found the time to talk to them as yet. cheers Mike
  14. Also check out the oil control in RBs thread
  15. Thanks Ben, I'm now confident it's a NEO head since checking the CAS (I have a NEO CAS) - now I just need to check coil packs and injectors to see what's still R33 vs NEO to determine the "in betweenness" between R33 and NEO Thanks Scott, ...at the point now deciding whether to put a 2nd hand R33 RB25 or 2nd hand NEO in. A NEO long motor (if I could source one) with my current NEO head is a risk as I have no idea how good my NEO head is (give the detonation issues), or the condition of any NEO long motor I sourced. My preferred option is to install a 2nd hand motor, either R33 RB25 or NEO. Guidance from SAU is to install a 2nd hand NEO rather than an R33 RB25 - stronger motor, and I'm halfway there already with my current NEO head... I still have decisions whether I keep the Apexi PFC or go to a Nistune - Nistune sounds like the go - I just need to source the NEO plus ECU/harness, and find an installer that understands the intricacies of a NEO into an R33 - gotchas like the air con control difference. cheers Mike