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Everything posted by Torques

  1. Thanks for the feedback .. My car makes about 320kw at the engine .. and at the moment I have a OSG Twin installed. Now after 13,000km it started slipping in 4th/5th. I think the stop and go traffic killed it since the plates are worn. In an EMail OSG said the clutch is more geared towards harsh engagement and would wear used 'normal' The OSG refresh kit would cost me around GBP 450 plus (taxes, postages etc) The Nismo Single GBP 710, the Nismo Twin GBP 1,140 (all plus) That's why I was thinking just getting the single to get a bit more life out of the clutch. I also never liked the rattle of the OSG twin. On the other hand just buying the refresh kit would be the cheapest option.
  2. Has anyone experience as to how much power the Nismo Single can actually hold? Thanks https://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermix-clutch
  3. Ahh .. OK .. it's a permanent sound, not dependent on gear selection. Sometimes it's almost gone (wishful thinking) Earlier I found brass shavings in the oil. (actually the oil was slightly laced with brass particles) I refilled with the OEM Oil which seemed to work fine. The 3rd->4th reluctance / crunch is annoying. Especially under higher revs. A gearbox refresh might be expensive and time consuming, that's why I thought of just biting the bullet and getting a brand new R34 unit. I think the 'conversion' to push is quite simple ... there are even markings in the cast for the R33 slave I heard.
  4. Hello, As per title. I'm driving an S2 GTST and the gearbox makes a slight whining noise in all gears - so possibly one of the shaft bearings(?) Shifting is actually ok, except for 3rd to 4th which doesn't like swift changes. I'm considering buying a brand new R34GTT gearbox and convert it from pull to push and sell of my old box. My question: Are the R34GTT boxes improved compared to the R33 ones?
  5. Ok, thanks ... I'll open a separate thread on my question.
  6. Yes, thanks ... I bought from both of them and always compare .. RHD is also 'helpful' with the customs declaration.
  7. I'm going to order from Japan anyhow so I've got access to the whole lot. https://www.nengun.com/drivetrain-clutch-kits/#m:1;c:76;g:1
  8. Yes, thanks! Couldn't agree more .. not all manufacturers give a torque rating though. I asked OSG about the rated torque and they wrote back that they don't give that figure (only power) How's the pedal feel on the NISMO Twin?
  9. Well, I'm at around 450ish hp at the crank. That's 335KW, so the clutch should ideally hold 550+ (410KW) My main grief with the STR is that that plates are worn just after 13,000km. I suppose that driving 70% of the mileage in traffic killed it .. Here's OSG's response If your vehicle's power is under the clutch max capacity, then it is often caused by driving too gently on the clutch. Our clutches were mostly designed for aggressive use in mind, and it is better to be used somewhat rough on occasions.
  10. Cheers ... I'll check the options you've mentioned. Do you mean the Nismo Coppermix? They rate it @ 309KW / 420HP .. but that seem to be @ the crank(?) ... and would leave me no headroom https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/catalogue_2021/html5.html#page=95
  11. Can someone clarify which of these clutches are rated for more power/torque? There is conflicting information on the WEB, OSG (JAP) states the TS2 can handle more power, but on other sites OSG states more power handling for the STR2 ... https://osgiken.co.jp/Clutch/feature.html I've got the STR2 in my R33 but it now needs a refresh, so thinking about alternatives. I'm also disappointed about how quickly the plates wore out. I'm driving mostly in traffic that requires a lot of clutch actions, OSG stated that the STR2 is more designed for 'hard' operation and might wear out quickly. Thanks
  12. Thanks for the feedback ... I definitely like no 'judder' .. but will give it a go since I always thought the clutch feel is a bit detached and mushy. I think that's the consumer setup to make it 'nice' for ordinary customers ...
  13. I have these in my R33GTST .... with the standard spring rates they sell. I'm not 100% happy with them, but for the $$ I guess they're ok. Main complaint would be that they're either too harsh or too mushy for my taste.
  14. Thanks ... will do .. Can you tell me what difference it will make? How's the clutch feel afterwards? I always thought the clutch feel is somewhat 'mushy' that's why I'm looking into the thing
  15. I had an OSG clutch installed some time ago, but never removed the 'clutch damper line' ... Does is make a big difference at all and what is the best way remove / bypass it? Cheers Attached from the manual (Figure 2)
  16. Yes, works with the mentioned P11 actuator .. drop in !
  17. According to my manual it sits right next to the airbag sensor (93) the number for the Remote Control unit is (89) So left hand side, glove compartment .. happy hunting
  18. Has anyone measured how much current the starter motor draws while cranking a cold engine? Thanks
  19. So update on my initial problem. I found a push-pin that is about 1.5 mm shorter. (Ideally 2.5mm would do the trick) I'll see if that fixes the issue for the time being. There's still no play at the fork but no pressure either. I could mount the slave without any problems, but it sits tight. In a couple of days I'll test if the clutch is still slipping... I'll pull the box at a later point ...
  20. That depends, often the torque curve shifts upwards when modifying an engine (especially with bigger turbos). Thus making more power @ higher rpm. All things being equal it would be nice to have a torque figure for a clutch.
  21. Cheers, yes ... it's time to possibly rethink my choice of clutch while at it .. I think it's just worn. Which clutch would you recommend? 300KW ish setup? Must be 'OK' to be used in traffic. As for STR2CD, OSG wouldn't give me any torque figures, just HP (450-500). I found that a bit funny .. For example you could make 450HP @ 8,000 rpm and 295 lbs ft Or 4,000 rpm and 591 lbs ft
  22. It wasn't made clear ... hence we now have requesters popping up. I think it's such an import principle of operation that there should have been something in BIG BOLD LETTERS about it. It wasn't ... I still have the documentation from when I started, there's no such mentioning. Improvements were made over time, but just recently there was more 'guidance' I bought into NT about 9 years ago, and there were many unknown unknowns at this time It was work in progress, that's for sure. But as said,NT is the best bang for the buck if you want real time tuning, wideband integration, logging and so forth. I also like the AFM principle and by now 'know my maps' from fuel cut, startup, idle timing, throttle enrichment etc. Still, maybe at some point I'll be switching to a modern ECU. Mainly for engine protection and boost control. I was looking at Adaptronic but I don't really like their software in addition they have been bought up and I'm not sure what's going to happen to them. Cheers
  23. I checked the pedal travel, and it needs about .8 - 10mm until it rests on the master rod/actuator. Then another 5 to 7mm till there is resistance and the clutch starts to operate. I'm not under the impression that there is any 'load' on the clutch master while the pedal is resting / clutch disengaged. I didn't unbolt anything, so that's just my observation from operating the pedal by hand and having a close look / feel.
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