jrm

Nah nothing like that on mine - just annoying yellowness compared to the bright white / blue xenons - they produce great light but eh .. I'm picky Cool "face" you produced on the photo from the glare though!

My R34 sedan came with some sort of carbon-fibre look-alike when I bought it (fairly common on the sedan from what I gather) - but it's not marked nismo as in the 2-door. The carbon garnish was already slightly damaged when I bought the car, but 18 months on it's starting to annoy me more any more - I wish I could replace it with something nicer Thoughts? Jen

*quickly hides R34 GT-T sedan with 340mm front/rear* ...

Looking on http://www.philipslighting.com.au/CV.htm they could be the HB3 or HB4. How do we know there isn't a HID ballast there, and these are some sort of Xenon globe - they sure look xenon to me (and the guy at the shop sure thought they were xenon - holding an actual xenon globe and this globe next to each other they were identical except the plug). Can you run a xenon over a HB3/4 type plug? The globes on that page look like regular halogen type. Is this the standard plug type for other R34s? Are they delivered from the factory with a HB3/4? Any other thoughts on how to check things? Jenna

Heyas, Have seen this car in the flesh - it's very well looked-after example of an R32 GTR. Surely there must be interest in a such a clean and straight car like this! Jenna

Something like IRC would be neater for me ... Much better than MSN, you don't have to give away peoples email addresses or add people individually - and its chatting in a group, not one-to-one ... .. eh .. each to their own Jen

Soooo .. to bring a long ago thread back ... When I was replacing my regular low-beam D2R HIDs today, I thought I'd have a second-look at the high-beams that I originally started this thread about. The connector thingy at the bottom is marked as a 'HIR1', but the rest of the bulb looks like a regular HID with the wire along the side of it n all. HIR apparently standards for 'Halogen Infrared Reflecting', but all the google searches I've done don't look anything like those sorts of bulbs in the bulb part - but it's that sort of side-wise pointing connector. HIR Bulb Stuff Does anyone know whether all R34 highbeam have this HIR type connector, or what? A hit of 'HIR', 'HIR1', 'HIR2' all show nothing when I try the search function. As always, I'd love everyone else's thoughts Jen Edit: Found a picture of the same sort of bulb online:

Really bad quality pic attached of the screw / backing plate. Basically seems to be sitting there in a way to prevent the backing plate from turning. I asked my housemate to look at it, and he said it might be a torx head screw... Just thinking how funny it wasn't a problem on the passenger side - but the reason I'm changing the bulb is because the xenons weren't matching - the left/right were a slightly different shade (though both 6000K) - suggesting that only one bulb had been changed in th past - I really wanted them matching cos its been annoying me (yes, I'm THAT obsessive .. hehehe ) Okay, just had a better look at the drivers side, and it *does* have one too, but looks like it's sitting tight before it, and at some point in the past, someone has forced it over the top of the screw ... Just grabbed a screw-driver and helped forced the drivers-side one over too .. woot .. and bulb changed! Oh well, if nothing else, next person who finds this might find something on 'SEARCH' about this oddity! Jen

I don't mean to hijack the thread at all - but I'm trying to pull apart the r34 headlight too - but for me - just change the bulb over from 6000K to 8000K ... I've managed to changeover the passenger side no problem, the back plate just span around, changed the bulb - plugged it all back together, voila - all working. But the drivers side, the backing plate just plain refuses to turn. I've managed to pull the battery out and get a good look behind there, and there seems to be some sort of a weird screw (a phillips head screwdriver won't t turn it ) that's specifically designed to prevent me from turning it. Anyone have any idea about this? I got no idea how to remove it I've done a search, but haven't turned up anyone else having this. Anyone seen this before?? Jenna

hmmm .. but after seeing all the 20-somethings I feel old at 30 .. damn you all!

hey, mine would do that thing with the auto-up too before it started to play up more and more. I'd hit auto-up, it'd get to the top and then it'll like go back down about 5cm like it hit something. I'd just hit the regular 'up' switch and it would go up and stay up. My alarm guy convinced me out of bothering with the auto-windup kit for my alarm though - so I don't have that - wishing i did now if it works cos at least then i wouldn't be forced to sit in the car trying to get it shut when I'm in a public car-park or something! Man, I'm dying to find a solution - having an inconsistent window is driving me insane... Jen

Hi again guys, With all this warm weather, my drivers-side power window has been working less and less consistently (usually it goes down fine, but when going up slows down and then stops coming up). Then five minutes later, it'll go further up again, and you'll finally get it up. It seems to happen worse in the warm weather or if it's been sitting outside in the sun. At night or in cool weather it generally works fine. I've tested the switch and it's definitely putting out a happy 12V and when pressing the switch with the door opened up I can feel the motor 'move' slightly when I press the button - but it fails to move the window itself. I've done some extensive searching on the forums and read up on R33 and these seem to have an external regulator/relay which fail a lot, but it appears as though on R34 (at least for the drivers-side) that this is integrated into the switch. It definitely seems like the voltage is getting out of the switch okay - so it all seems to point to a motor issue. From further searches on the forums, whilst I could go to Nissan, but it looks like I could be up for $350-500 for a new motor! (ouch). I live/work over in the Findon/Kidman Park area - are there any recommendations on reputable auto-elecs or someone who could assess/price/fix what's broke? Perhaps even get the existing motor repacked? (is this an option?) Ever since my employer has put in a boomgate - which requires putting down the window to swipe an access card - I've been having more and more issues with the drivers window that I previously rarely ever used! Gah... Anyways, any help is appreciated Jenna

Probably me ... I still have NSW plates - I really need to fix that. At least now I finally have my front bar fixed now from the stupid fox damage! (Thanks mxtcy!) Jen

Well, it popped the factory R34 vent out - which is what the hole is (thankfully managed to find it in the pitch dark laying at the side of the road a little further up past the deceased fox - Made me glad that I always carry a maglite in the car). Having driven around to various repair places today, the damage sounds like it's fixable - but not really that cheap - $700-800+ to repair and paint. I've managed to find a new bar for $350 shipped from interstate that's silver and *possibly* in the right color, which is cheaper than any of the wreckers I've found with one locally (475-500+) which haven't been in silver. If it isn't the right color and needs painting that'll probably be another $300+... Hopefully I can get it all done and dusted for less than $800; I guess we'll see. This fox thing is turning out to be a bit expensive! Jenna

Saw me ... hitting a fox at 80kph on the Copper Coast Highway at 11:20pm last night ... Pictures for anyone who cares .. Anyone got a Nissan/OEM R34 front-bar they're trying to get rid? Jenna

Definitely isn't the same as the factory r34 tape-deck mine had fitted ... Let me take a pic ... Jen

Any idea who makes these? Can you get them fir the right side too? ...*thinking* ... Would be a nice alternative to the big 2 x 12" sub box i have now ..

I donated by DD to the site a few weeks ago too, and I PM'd and emailed PranK and no response at all I don't even know if the DD details on the site are right, or whether it was received or what... Can someone please get back to me! Jenna

Heh, well I finally got convinced someone to rip out the globe on the highbeam to check it out - what can I say - sometimes I don't feel like getting my hands dirty or breaking nails (like I always seem to)... ... Anyways, cut a long-story short - looks like they are HID on the highbeam. From what we can see, looks like someone converted the highbeams to HID, installed a ballast, etc - before I even got the car (I'm the first aussie owner). The really crazy thing is - they then installed really crappy 'yellow' HID bulbs. For a car that I bought that was verystock - original exhaust, tape-deck, etc - I didn't think I'd find any modifications at all. Perhaps this is something crazy from compliancing - I ended up with someone elses headlights... who knows Anyways, I checked out the prices of better colored HID globes and nearly fell over ... $400ish for the pair .. ouch. I think I'm going to have to learn to live with yellowish high-beam Jenna

Hi again guys, Since I bought by R34 4-door 10 months ago now I've been annoyed by the yellow-ish highbeam out of the standard R34 GT-T headlights. I went down to Repco to ask them about it and they told me they're Xenon highbeam and I'm up for something crazy like $250 a globe to replace these with something a bit whiter. This seems to conflict with what I've read on the forums about the highbeam on R34 just being regular globes. I've looked as best as I can through the headlight glass as the bulbs and they do look kinda weird - like they have some sort of solid wire that runs to the end of the globe - the Repco guys reckoned that was a clear indicator it wasn't a standard globe but a xenon. Does anyone know what sort of globes these might be? I've searched both the forums and google and come up with no luck. Ripping apart the headlight assembly to get into the globes to rip them out and take a closer look is a last resort - it looks like a real pain (I sure cant get my hands behind there to replace highbeams without taking out the whole headlight!). I can probably get a pic or two of the globe through the headlight glass if that helps. So guys - if you have any idea - let me know! Jenna

Does yours light up when all the other lights do when you start the car? Might be time I poke around behind the dash and see if they've chucked the switch in there or something ... Hrmm - wonder if i can get a replacement switch or something if not ... grr, what a mess!

I've read lots of posts about the traction control for other drives with r34 - and they all talk about a switch under the steering wheel to control this. When I got my car - I didn't have a switch there - and the alarm LED has since been put there. Additionally, when turning on the car (and all lights in the dash light up) I dont have any 'TCS' or 'Slip' up the top as I've heard others mention - I had taken this to mean my car didn't have traction control and was satisfied with this. However! Whilst fitting my 0gauge cabling for the amps & stereo I noticed a fuse in the under-bonnet area for TCS - ripped this out - and the car turned into the one I bought - with copious wheel spin and power-slides and heaps of fun to boot. But - this leaves some obvious questions! Do I just have dead globes in the dash and the 4-door doesn't have a switch? Have I been gypped by the importer and had a dodgy and had my dash replaced with one without traction-control lighting / switch? Any thoughts from folk is appreciated Jenna

Well, I've organised to be in Sydney a week (22->26th), whether I can get mechanical work checked out & fixed in that time I can't say - I would hope so. I'll be staying around the Ashfield/Haberfield area with a friend. Certainly it seems to me, if I was to buy the vehicle the first thing I need to do is take it to a specialist mechanic to be checked out properly and then back to the dealer to fix anything straight after. Particularly with a ~1800km drive back home, I don't need/want anything going wrong on the way back. Jenna

If mechanical inspections, NRMA inspections & warranties don't mean much - where does that leave a buyer? The rust mentioned is very minor, a small spot under the rear center light - barely worth fixing (the NRMA inspector said as much) but something that he had to note down as it varied from original condition. I'm pretty set on manual; I've only really ever driven manual - every auto I've driven has just frustrated me to hell and back; you just can't seem to "balance" the car properly with the throttle as on a manual. I've already got flights booked, so I might as well at least inspect & test-drive the thing in Sydney. I'm not going to be pressured into the sale by the caryard, but if the car - to me - drives like 48,000km and otherwise seems fine - I suspect I'd end up driving home with it. And if I do - well, whether that ends up being an expensive mistake, I guess time will tell. To give a comparison - does anyone else have any indication of what they've had in terms of an NRMA inspection on vehicles - Body/Mechanical rating, issues listed, etc? Jenna

Guessing you're referring to this car. From looking at the interior though, isn't that just a non-turbo that's been converted? A factory turbo would have the gauges in the dash - no? (Like this example). Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. You're right about the km and I'm guessing a series 2 as well, still ... A non-turbo to turbo conversion seems like something to steer-clear of. For those suggesting the auto -> manual conversion, etc. To be honest, I'd rather pay more upfront and not have to go through all of the change-over, engineering, and other nonsense to convert an auto to manual. I don't really have the mechanical knowledge to get it done/organised or to be sure it's all done right (yeah yeah, pick on the girl ). I've organised a test-drive of the car this Saturday, assuming the test-drive is okay and the the follow-up inspection on all of the things they've fixed (they're fitting all new tyres, checking on the cam-cover gasket, replacing/fixing as required, replacing shocks, replacing buckled rim, replacing tie-rod, etc. An odd thing they noted was that apparently the tyres that were on it aren't the ones from compliancing). At the end of the day, if it doesn't 'feel' right then I'll be walking away - there are plenty of other options in 2-door/manual in Sydney to look at at nearby caryards. I'm not going to be pressured into it by them if I'm not happy Thanks to everyone for all of the advice/assistance you've all provided - it's been very insightful. Overall given the otherwise pristine condition of the car, the NRMA inspector did note that it was one of the cleanest R34s he'd seen in a while. I asked him flat out, and he didn't feel that the km seemed that 'off' to his belief given the overall clean/straightness of the body, and overall wear, etc. He seemed to feel that the problems listed weren't great warning signs, it didnt look like a cut-and-shut, didn't appear to have been in any accidents, and that it drove very well and smoothly. The yard will be providing a 3-month warranty on the car if I do purchase it; First plan would be to (and I warned the caryard of this - and they seemed happy with it) take it to a good mechanic (any suggestions?) and get everything that NRMA doesn't check checked - and demanding the yard fix those ASAP too - timing belts, compression test, plugs, leads, turbo, etc, etc (any other suggestions here?) Second plan after getting the mechanicals checked out/fixed will be to get an alarm fitted; From what I'm reading and previous experience, Brant seems a good option and they're upgradeable; Does anyone have any other thoughts on security, installers, etc? Jenna