Dany

Sorry mate, already bought one from a friend. Mods please delete thread.

Hey guys, I'm after a working PS3, my one won't start up anymore. I'd prefer if it was S.E Melb pick up but not necessarily, show me what you got....

Bump.

As the topic says, I'm after 12' twin sub box. Preferably pick up from Melb S.E Suburbs. Thanks

Sorry, but not really interested in gauges/steering wheel. I'd be interested trading for car speakers.

Price drop: $200 That's $50 per rim/tyre.....need these gone.

Hey guys, Bought new rims/tyres for my S15 so these are just taking up room....need to get rid of them. Location: S.E Melb Price: $350 2 of the tyres have plenty of meat left & 2 of them have some camber wear. Pick up only. 16x6.1/2 - 40

Where in VIC are you located mate?

Well I changed the o2 sensor, no improvement. Checked spark plugs and the fuel regulator, all good. Checked the ECU for error codes but it comes up as code 55 = no error. I get about 320k's per full tank before the fuel light comes on. Anybody got any other ideas with what's causing this? Bad injectors? Vacuum leak?

Thanks for the replies guys. mad082, I don't hit the boost often since the car is non-turbo but thank you for the reply, I usually shift the gears around 2.5k's RPM's, I don't really drive hard. I found a thread on how to test the O2 sensor with the paperclip method, so I will do this on the weekend. Only mods I have on the car is an exhaust system and splitfire coilpacks, I'll test the o2 sensor on the weekend, if that's fine, then I will try changing the coilpacks.

My R34's has been using way too much petrol lately, I get about 200km's for $50, that's close to 17L per 100km. I cleaned the K&N air filter, tried both Shell V-Power and Mobil 98 Octane, but it didn't help. Would anyone have any idea what the problem could be? I'm thinking it might be the spark plugs, I got the premium one's put in about 30.000k's ago and haven't changed them in a while. I change the oil, fuel filter & oil filter regularly. Thanks for the help.

PM Sent.

I'm after 2x 265/35/18 and 2x 225/40/18. Either new or used, if they've been used I'd prefer if they have 75%+ tread left on them. Got cash ready, located in Melb S.E Suburbs. PM me if you got something

Can I please get the price for 2x 265/35/18 and 2x 225/40/18 for both brands. Thanks

When I was buying my car I talked to the seller on the phone asking him how many K's has the car done to which he replied "Around the 86k mark". When I got to his place to see the car there was 154k on the clock lol. When asking him about it he said he "got confused".

Can I ask you where in Melb did you get quoted $1200 for the box rebuild, I'd like to give them a ring about fixing up my box. I got quoted $2295 last week to rebuild my RB25DE box

I'm interested in getting the pair of you, if someone else is willing to buy the other pair. Please PM me.

I had the same problem a few weeks back, -car shut off during driving -no power steering/indicators/power windows/dash light -stereo working fine -it turns over but wont start Problem turned out to be that on the back of the immobilizer circuit board, one of those small solder has burned off.

Splitfire. I think they're between $600-$700, I'm not sure thought.

Update. I've changed the ignition switch with a new one but the car died again a few days later and would not start again. I called an electrician guy I know and it turns out that at the back of the immobilizer circuit board one of the solder has melted/burned off. That's what the problem was.

I had the exact same problem for months. So I came to this forum and asked for advice, I was told it was the coil packs and after I changed them I've never had that problem again. When the problem occurs, see if you can park somewhere and turn off the car for 10-15seconds. Start it again and it see if it runs properly.

I've got a voltage meter in the car I just checked it's on 13.9v. I'll check the wires at the ignition switch tomorrow since it's dark now and let you know how it went. Thanks for your help again. I appreciate it.

I checked the battery terminals and cables they seem fine. I'm not sure how to check the charge rate from the alternator because I'm not really a mechanic guy lol. How would I check the ignition switch? Thanks for your help! No turbo timer, it's RB25DE. I took the car to the mechanic in Dandy to fix the alternator and I didn't ask them for a price because I thought it won't be more then $200-$250 to take it out and repair it. When they rang me and said it's $570 I was thinking WTF what a rip-off. I went to another mechanic yesterday and they said it could be a hunder different things and they won't know what is it until they drive the car and the incident actually occurs. One of my parents friends had the same problem with his car so I'll ask him how he fixed it. It seems the problem occurs when I drive the car for longer then 15-20mins, as if something heats up and I can't start the car until it cools down?

Hey guys, got a problem I hope you could help me out with. I was driving last night on the highway doing about 70km/h when my car just shut off and everything went dead except the headlights, even the indicators weren't working. I managed to pull up on the gutter and tried to start it but couldn't. There was crank but it wouldn't start, sort of like the battery was dead but I bought a new one couple of months back so that wouldn't be the problem. I still checked the plugs and they were fine. After leaving the car for about 10mins I tried to start it and it worked as usually so I'm wondering what would've caused this. I got my alternator fixed a few weeks back which cost me $570, also got Splitfire coil packs and new spark plugs. Anyone have any idea what might be the problem?

I've seen a black R34 in Moorabbin a few times with [M34N] license plates, replace 3 with E and 4 with A and the 34 standing for R34.