bradsm87

My vote goes to ditch AC, mount power steering pump down low and low mount turbo, trying to get turbine inlet flange as close to the centre line of the exhaust ports as possible.

Just don't put a turbo too small on it. It's high comp and you're running pump fuel so U gotta go medium-large turbo and low boost. Definitely not a stock turbo IMO. GTX3067R .82 would work well.

Full boost at 3300 if loaded up in a high gear from low RPM. Transient throttle at anything above 3700 is insanely, insanely quick on to boost. Comes on gradually and very controllable if loading up from low rpm. If u hit the throttle at 4500-ish, u gotta be careful becomes on very fast and hard.

The 1.05 is prob a bit big. The .92 easily,easily will achieve that goal. I have a 2.15L SR20 with a 7064 .92 and Poncams (tiny) and mine made 258rwkw on about 16psi with very,very conservative timing. It goes a lot harder now but haven't dynoed it since. Still can't afford to take it in for another run. With 24-26psi and 260 degree Procams, it'd go off it's head (Prob 350 odd rwkw. My injectors/gearbox/clutch would not support that level of power).

The 7163 comes in TS T4 0.80

There are a lot better options around these days.

The IWG on the .92 housing would only ever be a problem if you were trying to run very low boost on a V8 or something. Generally on any RB or whatever, you need to run a lot of boost to make a lot of power. To run a lot of boost, the gate needs to be more closed. The more boost you run (making more power), the smaller the gate you need. Putting a bigger than necessary gate on just means that it will be more closed for the same target boost level. 800hp through a .92 IWG:

My favourite thing about EFR turbos is doing this (very, very quick clutch tap from 2500rpm): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9FWbtCK2HQ That's 3rd gear up a hill. Waaaay too scared of breaking the gearbox to do it in 4th.

Is that one wastegate pipe coming out of both sides of the divided manifold?

New turbine/housing options listed on match bot too. Also found an awesome read on mixed flow turbine wheels with a mention of the pros/cons of using TiAl - http://www.hindawi.com/journals/ijrm/2012/589720/ Needless to say, I'm very excited about the 7163 in 0.80 twin scroll (although I hope the 0.80 comes out for my 7064 because I'm not changing turbos any time soon)

The dyno run with a fairly quick ramp rate did not represent the on-road boost threshold. It showed full boost at around 3800 on the dyno. I'm now running my E30 mix and have added 2psi of boost across the board and around 6 degrees more timing in most of the full load cells with no sign of knock. I didn't push it any further but I plan to get it in to the tuner in a month or so see if has any more headroom and get a good dyno printout with RPM and at a slow ramp rate.

If u want full boost at high-2000's, your options are: a) Put a tiny turbo on it that will make no more than about 90kw at the wheels when pushed to the limit. b) Get a bigger engine.

Get an N1 block for a start. There are plenty of GTRs out there putting out 650-ish kw at the wheels on non-N1 blocks and N1 blocks are meant to be even stronger.

For next time Geoff check this thread: Will the .80 divided housings only be for B1 frame turbos or will they do it for the 7064 as well? I'd be soooo keen for a little smaller housing on my 7064 to get full boost under 3000rpm

My EFR 7064 recovers from shifts around the same as a GT2871R. Pretty good considering the 2871 has a 54mm turbine wheel and the 7064 has a 64mm one.

Some web sites accidentally interprit Garrett's GTX2867R as a 'typo' and assume it's a GTX2876R. There is no GTX2876R.

I tried United E10/98 in my liberty once going from BP98. I could hear audible detonation upp hills straight away. Changed back to BP98 and it went away as quickly as it came with the United stuff.

I would say you can definitely tweak the ex cam timing. I think back pressure at the exhaust ports would definitely be lower with an equivalent sized twin scroll.

I'll prob aim to bring the Nismo 740's to around 86-89% duty cycle with 25% ethanol in the fuel so prob around 275rwkw on as low boost as possible. I'm confident with the ethanol and more timing that I can get 14psi at 3100rpm.

Here's a screenshot of a quick run I logged last night playing with my boost control settings. Intake air temp is amazing with the W2A intercooler. You can see that it reaches full boost (14psi) at 3300RPM.

GTX3071 for the win! Better response and better comp to turbine ratio.

yep 89.5mm bore - 2.16 L

er.... higher comp and more capacity for better response. If the piston to bore clearances were right, it would've been the perfect street SR. Now it's just the perfect street SR with a noise.

Don't get me wrong, performance is great and will be AMAZING with some ethanol and more timing. I am just SO angry that I've tried to make a no-sacrifices street car build that's quiet and comfortable and running tight bearing clearances for thin oil and the ability to cold start it 10x a day if I want to and now I have a car that I have to explain the noise to everybody who gets in it cold and that's also very difficult to tune ignition timing due to knock detection difficulty. The whole suspension package, EVERYTHING is based around the car being 100% like a factory car in terms of noise, engine longevity and comfort. I deliberately did not purchase a Toyota 86 because I knew I could make my S15 so much better than an 86. There is no way in hell I'd ever get the motivation to pull the engine back out and there is no way the machinist would ever look after me. It took me months to get a thicker head gasket out of them when they took too much off the deck.

I'm too angry with the machinist in Victoria I used to even think about my car at the moment. I told them verbally and emailed them that the Mahle pistons I provided are 4032 alloy which expands a lot less than the more common 2618 but I could tell that they just switched off when I was trying to tell them that 2 thou over the coating is the recommended clearance by the piston manufacturer. So many ppl in this industry just think they know it all and can't be told. It has the loudest piston slap I've ever heard in my life and even when warm, the tuner had huge difficulty trying to detect knock over the piston noise. I spent 2 years building what I wanted to be the perfect street car and now I don't even want to drive it. I wish there was a way for me to do EVERYTHING myself and do it right. Hopes and dreams shattered at the moment.