wlspn

Hey guys, Member on here for a long time but haven't visited the forum in ages. Have a 95 R33 GTST I was pinching parts from for my R32 & it's time to get rid of the last of the parts & the shell. Everything I'm listing is in good condition (unless mentioned) but has been sitting round for a while so needs a clean & some TLC. Feel free to make any reasonable offers... * Boot (incl. spoiler, struts, interior trim, etc) Silver. No lock. $150 * Bonnet (needs respray) $75 * Electric antenna $50 * Sill panels $30 pair * Fuel flap (silver) $15 * Pass kick panel (with fuseholder) $15 * Rad support $30 * Roof grab handles $20 pair * Centre console (no lid or handbrake boot) $50 * Radiator shroud (NO cracks, etc) $30 * Cluster surround $20 * B/C pillar trim $50 pair * A pillar trim $25 pair * D/S front guard (Silver) $75 * Taillights $150 pair * Dash vent (passenger far side) $20 * Front seatbelts $30 pair * Roof dome lights (front & centre) $15 ea All prices are negotiable & located in Cranbourne, VIC. This is all the major parts (so please don't ask if I have gearbox, brakes, etc, etc) however there is a lot of small parts I haven't bothered listing so send me a PM or SMS if you have something small in mind as I may have it. Can be reached on 0423 303 007, preferably by SMS due to work. Can take pics of panels, etc for serious buyers but we all know what most of this stuff looks like...

My pick would be VW Golf, preferably the Comfortline TSi (I think), 1.4l twin-charged unit anyway. CHEAP on fuel, zippy, reliable & euro quality... Only thing you would have to check out is servicing costs, etc

They'll probably insure him. As far as take the premium... It will be when something goes wrong that you'll find out what they think of the illegal alarm. Fine if car goes missing & is never seen again but if it is recovered, damaged, etc, you may not be covered

Hey champ, Finished my apprenticeship around 2 years ago so still all pretty fresh in my mind. What you are saying is all very normal. Someone has to do the shit work & seeming you're the new guy & being paid the least it makes sense for you to do it. It sucks but that's how it goes... Especially being in a bigger workshop. Put as much effort as you can into doing even the shittiest jobs & show you're really keen. & hey, I'm now managing my own department at work, have my own assistant, etc & still have to pick up the mop sometimes! As long as you're not being taken advantage of (& get a second opinion if that's the case as at some times you may feel that way when it's really not the case) then it's cool. Stick with it! All the best... EDIT: See you're in Vic... Do you mind me asking where you work?

24, had license 6 years. So far... Nissan Exa Turbo KE70 Corolla Series 2 RX-7 (12a turbo) R32 GTS25T (current) R33 GTST (current - wrecking for parts now) R32 GTR (current project) BMW E34 540i (current daily/cruiser)

Yeah, they are legal, just have to meet ADR requirements... As said have to be legal noise & generally sit rather low, requiring the body to be rather high so aren't worth it

Have a 16" Davies Craig on my RB25 R32, controlled by a Haltech ECU with an override switch in the car. Never had a problem with overheating, be it on the dyno, heavy traffic, etc temp is very stable.

No, as I said in my post, that wasn't aimed at anyone in this thread or anyone in particular, have just seen guys on here stating that a thermo will always cause overheating, etc & it's stupid to use one. Just wanted OP to realise it can be done but as you say there are things that can go wrong or be done wrong... When I first fitted the thermo it was due to cooler piping & I preferred the idea of that rather than removing the standard shroud or trimming blades as some people do. My cooler setup has now changed & I could run the clutch fan again but currently have no reason to as temps are very steady under all conditions... Nothing wrong with the clutch fan. It does its job superbly & is basically idiot-proof. Fan is controlled by my Haltech (through standard temp sensor) with an over-ride switch

To go against the trend a bit here I have a 16" Davies Craig & have never had overheating problems be it in heavy traffic, on the dyno, etc, etc So many people on here (not saying the guys above) make it sound like it can't be done without issues but like anything, if done properly, it can...

I would (& have before) get the shop to do it, as long as they are reputable. They will reverse flow a cleaning solution (sometimes heated) through it at high pressure. By flowing backwards & at high pressure they will remove more than you will with a hose. If you were just replacing coolant & noticed it was dirty maybe use a hose (although I'd still use the shop) but seeming you are saying there's some major gunk in there & you're fitting a brand new radiator I wouldn't take the risk of filling it up with shit. The shop will also ensure the system is entirely bled, has correct ratio of coolant to water, is pressure tested, electrolysis tested, etc... They SHOULD also use distilled water but check with them beforehand

OK, first of all the original person who wrote that post doesn't really understand how a torque (or stall) converter works. Secondly a "shift kit" is generally modifications performed to the trans &/or valve-body to give quicker, firmer shifts, etc. If anything by doing a shift-kit & high stall alone you will be more likely to break things. What you want to do is strengthen the trans by (depending on your budget) getting an overhaul using strengthened components such as clutch drums, etc, maybe upgrading to kevlar bands & clutch plates, adding an oil cooler (as you mentioned), etc Really there are a lot of options but the price will soon sky-rocket. I wouldn't add shift kits or high stalls unless you either strengthen the trans or are prepared to replace it when it fails. Also there is no such thing as a "stage 2" shift kit. This isn't Gran Turismo... Some shops may offer varying levels of modifications such as stage 1, stage 2, etc but what is included is likely to change from shop to shop. Before you buy anything do some research, know what you're buying... Where are you located?

Check out immaculate reflections. Think he may be a sponsor on here now. Seen his work & it is great! All above may be as good or better but I haven't seen them myself...

Only way you could get a dent from washing with pressure washer is if he physically hit the panel with the tip of the gun. They are strong but won't cause dents. Have a heavy industrial unit at work & it gets used on all sorts of stuff, some quite soft & will not cause dents even with a pencil (very thin strong stream) jet. As mentioned can strip paint but definitely wont dent...

Only way you could get a dent from washing with pressure washer is if he physically hit the panel with the tip of the gun. They are strong but won't cause dents. Have a heavy industrial unit at work & it gets used on all sorts of stuff, some quite soft & will not cause dents even with a pencil (very thin strong stream) jet. As mentioned can strip paint but definitely wont dent...

What rubbers are worn? Front & rear windscreens can generally be done with cheaper generic seals but side window seals & trim would have to be genuine unless you're willing to look at good condition secondhand items...

PM sent

What is your budget roughly? Also if you find somewhere that does aftermarket rubber seals let me know... If you have to end up going genuine, which you probably will (I have looked for aftermarket stuff with no luck), that is very likely to blow your budget as from memory all the rubber seals add up to over $2000 alone!

A member on here, Birds, made a thread about this just recently. Called something like "R33 boot install". Will be more info in there but basically if you want something the size of the whole boot area you will need to make it in sections (or it wont fit in) then either join them together when they're in there or seperately secure each of them to the boot floor... Personally I would buy a boot carpet from wreckers or here & use that as a template, cut out one piece of wood the right size then cut it into smaller sections to fit it in boot. Would secure (bolt) sides & back, then hinge the section section over spare (if you carry one) for easy access...

Received mine yesterday. Mint! Thanks heaps for organising this group-buy Phil. You're a champ... & try not to let slight hiccups stop you in the future. It happens... Hell it can happen without group-buys. Took 6 months for UAS to make & deliver my camber arms & that was personally, not through group-buy!

Um, 50 cents... No, I'm interested to know what they're worth to a collector as well as I have quite a stash of rare coins somewhere including the round 50...

Where in Vic are you?

Agree with above. Nismo is standard with 2 or 4 extra spot-welds. Nothing special. Actually pretty damn shit for what they charge for it... A strengthened standard item is better & cheaper

When you removed your battery altogether how long did you wait before measuring voltage again? Will take quite a while to dissipate... Try again & wait a long time to see if voltage drops to 0/reasonable specs. If that ends up being OK, run car with EVERYTHING on then turn things off one by one, waiting 5 mins between each to see if voltage drops. Can also try removing fuses one by one... Do you have many aftermarket electronics such as alarm, turbo-timer, EBC, gauges, amp(s), etc?

I feel your pain! After having & repairing 6 odd coolant leaks in about 4 months I realised something else was going on & checked coolant to find it reads almost 1 volt through multimeter. All earths, etc are clean. Currently in the process of ripping my car apart, redoing ALL wiring, cleaning all earths, adding extra earths, etc to try & sort the problem. Have you tried flushing old coolant & replacing with fresh stuff? Let me know how you get on...

Used to have Catapres as a kid although apparently it isn't often used for sleeping. Now have a back injury & take mogadon (nitrazepam), endep & tramadol before bed & wake up feeling fine. However saying that, everyone's different & I would avoid relying on strong meds if you can help it. At one stage I tried a herbal sleeping aid called Valerian. Didn't do a lot for me but had been on much stronger meds since a young age which probably didn't help... Maybe give it a try if you haven't already? Also, may sound stupid but have you tried the old warm milk/milo, etc? My old ladys been drinking wierd tea lately (flavours like cranberry, raspberry & strawberry) & swears black & blue it's helping her sleep