Stick180

Personally, i'd be dropping the extra $400 for the Pro series. I believe (at least during their original conception) they were based off the Blue series but have evolved with apparent new valving tech etc etc. The BC's were super harsh ride wise, felt like the road was covered in potholes almost (this with damping at softest), but they did feel a bit more pointy initially through corners, i felt like there was considerably more understeer at turn in on tighter radius corners (but this is not really a like or like, considering the difference in wheel size, tyre choice, track temp etc etc)

This is completely different to their OG approach. I have the R&D/guinea pig set of MCA Blue coilovers in my stagea from about 9 years ago. Josh started with a rough R33 spec valving figure and spring rates (which was 10/8kg). We went for a whiteknuckled test drive through the Landsborough hinterland before he decided needed more valving and less spring. Eventually settled for 7/5kg springs and a bunch more valving (unsure of figures). I was running on some Tein Superwagon coilovers at the time and the difference was night and day. And after going for a ride with a fellow stagea chum who runs BC golds, i still believe the MCA Blues i have are still by far a better ride. As for Voston, as far as i am aware, that is their budget brand and nothing like the Pro series they offer now, or anything like the Blue/Red or Gold series back in the day

Just the last few update posts, for me at least

@Duncan Photo links no worky!

Blitz will fit, but requires cutting of either the reo, or knocking back the chassis rails like on the 260RS. Nistune does do boost control, but only upto 18psi (max res on OEM map sensor) and Nistune must be upgraded to FP2 software. I had limited success with this back in the day, but ultimately i went to a Link G4X.

Im running a 30A midi with my 460 after having the same issues. Running 10ga from the battery to a rear relay then 10ga from relay to pump via bulkheads. Have not had the issue since. The blade fuses cannot dissipate the heat, even with dielectric grease applied. Midi holder and fuses easily available from Cooldrive. In most cases, the amp rating on consumer based auto electrical components is peak draw, not continuous.

When you do look inside the mirrors, be sure to remove the sponge that is jammed in there. That is the culprit.

The RSV is 1520kg wet. The majority of the extra bulk in the RS4S and 260RS is in the driveline.

Its not a skyline wagon

Keen for this mate. About to go down the same route

Any RB starter will work

Does your radio work? IIRC the interior lights (including dash), Taillights and Radio are all on the audio fuse.

Bad things are literally all you hear about the Otaku Garage intakes.

Following

Im leaning towards the Link. They've release the G4X range of plug ins now too.

Ahh. Well, the TCU is part of the reason i want to ditch Nistune. Even with all the auto stuff turned off, i still get TCU/TCM error codes popping up from time to time. Which link did you end up going with? a plug in or wire in?

Was yours an factory auto or manual? When you say TCU, do you mean Transmission Control Unit?

Hello chaps, Im chasing some opinions. I have a 2000 Series 2 Stagea RS (Factory auto, Manual conversion), Currently running Nistune with flex sensor, making 332rwkw. The time has come to look at aftermarket ECU options, as i feel like i've reached the limit of what Nistune has to offer (could also be the fact that my tuner isn't really interested as he didn't build the car), and also to ditch the auto ECU. Now, i know most of you will tell me to buy what your tuner suggests, but i've ditched my current tuner, and now on the lookout for a new one, and the other good local options all offer tuning on the big brands. I've been tossing up between the Link GT-T plug in or the Haltech Elite 2000 with harness adapter. My main requirements are Flex fuel, Boost control, Wideband control, Launch control, mafless, EGT monitoring and engine safety control. ECUmaster Black has also crossed my mind, but i don't see much local support. Does anyone have opinions on the these 2 ECUs? If they are suitable? Other suggestions? all comments appreciated.

My cam seals are leaking, and look just like this

Best way is to use nistune to do a log, from there you can work out what is going on

Fuseable Link

The factory boost gauge gets its reference from a sender in the engine, near the BMC. I don't know why you are bothering fitting a factory triple gauge as the are pretty inaccurate.

Anyone?

Hi all, So this is somewhat of a noob question, and after much searching SAU, FB, and the interwebs, i cannot find any concrete info on how to reset the TPS position on an RB25 neo. Some background on why i need to do this: I had been chasing an electrical gremlin where the car would die after hitting the limiter( which turned out to be an incorrectly set Nistune rev limit parameter). During the whole process, i had checked the TPS voltages, and noticed that when the TPS was closed it read 0.30v, and at WOT it would read 3.63v. The resistance sweep in both directions was correct. Now, obviously this is out of Nissans specified window, and when i try to adjust it, it just idles up (to about 2000rpm) and the TPS IDLE indicator in Nistune does not illuminate, and adjusting the IACV does nothing to reduce the RPM. I've read you could leave the battery disconnected, or cycle the ign on and off 10 times etc etc but none of these have worked. The only thing i have yet to check (which i should have done earlier) is to refit my original Neo auto TB, which i had swapped over to an S2 RB25 TB (because the TSC TB solenoid fouled on my coilpacks), my thinking here is that maybe the S2 TB doesnt open/sweep the same way as the Neo? (im still using the neo TPS) Anyone with any tips? Much appreciated.

I will give this a go.. Thank you good sir