Beer Baron

why put an RB30 head on it? they are SOHC. it will be a 2.5litre SOHC nugget. to me it looks fairly fked. look at the rust on the timing belt gear and how corroded the oil pump is. I'm sure you can save it but it will take some work and money. in the end you probably wont save a lot over just rebuilding a better health RB25 to start with and you may end up spending just as much for an engine that has second hand gear in it. considering it's been outside with no sump on it for a fair while expect the crank to be rusted up nicely too. also check the pistons well, at least one has a nice little chip out of it that will make a hotspot. it's good for free, but just a shame it wasn't looked after. see if you can find out why it was pulled from a car and dissasembled in the first place. it's not normal for people to pull out a perfectly good motor for no reason.

hehe, come on post some pics of yours now too. yes I know a few people at omori factory too which is why I asked. the R1 packages can and do vary a little bit in terms of what exactly the customer asked for. but basically it is: refreshed engine new N1 block metal head gasket N1 pistons N1 rings N1 type exhaust manifolds R1 turbos (Can't remember spec, i have it somewhere, but from memory similar to N1s, GT-SS) R1 cams (quite mild though, similar to N1 camshafts but a bit more lift from memory) nismo injectors re-mapped ECU with the R1 map nismo air flow meters all new bearings (rod and mains) nismo oil pump new timing belt nismo sump baffles so it's basically a rebuild to N1 spec done at nismo omori and with the nice red crinkle coat covers. the stainless piping, nismo radiator, nismo intake duct, nismo exhaust, nismo intercooler are all options. people can just take their car to any nismo affiliated workshop to get the engine removed, then send it to omori for all the work to be done. they then send back the complete engine where the tuner re-fits it. they are desinged to give circuit capable performance but still be street legal and driveable on the street. offering a mild-ish increase from the factory 280ps to 450ps (still more than 50% power up though). it's a good package. very similar to what i did with my 32 GTR though I went just a little more wild. after around 600ps but still streetable and tractable at the circuit I did: brand new R34 N1 Nur crate engine from nissan pulled apart and rebuilt at prime garage in kyushu japan (to be blueprinted, tighter tolerances, weight balanced everything and use their own forged pistons) all other N1 internals obviously tomei type B cams Tomei valve springs fully ported and CC'd head and squish zones removed on one side oil galleries ported, oil feed restricted metal head gasket nismo timing belt tomei cam gears mines cam cover baffles trust sump extension and sump baffle kit tomei manifolds HKS GT-SS turbos tomei dump pipes sard 700cc injectors nismo airflow meters power FC full trust hard pipe kit (super suction kit + hard pipe kit) GTS4 4.375:1 diff gears Koyo twin core radiator ARC intercooler trust oil cooler kit and probably 100 other bits I forgot. about to be fired up in the next few weeks finally! can't wait. some pics of by B1 Beer Baron spec engine. lol. after all it has been a while since I whored out my engine pics. enjoy. Tets at work. he's an engine building master. has built more RB26s than I've had hot breakfasts. He works on Super GT cars, and build Yoshioka's 4AG 20V which makes something crazy like 300 something PS NA with NOS.!! and revs to something approaching infinity...

there is really no difference between BP98, mobil 98, caltex 98, shell 98. the only differences you get is between servos and batches. sometimes any company will have a bad batch, or some contamination, or you are unlucky enough to buy from a servo with low stock (ie getting fuel from the bottom of the tank) or with old stock. but apart from that it doesn't matter one bit really which 98 brand fuel you buy.

shit. PWR, they are hopeless mate. just about on par with the DBA 4000s for love of cracking.... lol just kidding. i'm sure they are tip top.

well whether your engine can handle 20psi out of -5s is impossible to predict really. maybe it will maybe it wont. one thing is for sure the more boost and (with larger turbs) the more airflow you are putting into the engine the more likely any weakness is to show up. so it's your call really. the turbos can certainly take it no problem. if it were me and your engine is as good as you say then sure give it 20psi on the street. on the track (should you go there) maybe turn it down a bit for some safety.

what turbos? that's the big factor you've left out. wont need to be on the dyno to re-do the cold start. will need to be on the dyno to set the boost control properly at 20psi.

car looks good mate. do I spy a new cage? or just got the cusco one tagged to the a pillar? bummer on the valve though dropped valve is never pretty. expect to get some absract art fall out when you take the sump off....

yep, do it now. tomei dumps are the best of the bunch too. you'll love the new gear i'm sure.

fked if I know for sure, but for just over 300kw you want the smaller ones (I think the -7s). the other ones are more like a 2530 and will give 350-380rwkw and are more laggy.

yeah sorry good point. I was mixing up the -s. get the smaller -7s (GT-SS/34 N1 equivelant) they will give you just over 300rwkw and your 11sec time slip.

yep, that will be a good package mate. the only thing I would add would be a nice oil cooler kit (get one that mounts in either the left or right duct in the front bumper, not the ones that mount in front of the radiator). you could also consider nismo AFMs over the Z32s. no plug mod needed and no mod to your intake set-up either. they are basically a Z32 sensor in a standard casing.

Thanks for that Nick. yeah $6.8 seems pretty good to me. if you're getting 4 X calipers, 4 X floating, slotted AP rotors, braided lines, good quality radial mount-lug mount adapters and a set of pads maybe even 2 bottles of fluid then it's a very competetive price. a car with nice brakes is a joy to drive and gives you so much more confidence on track. but it's hard purchase to cough up for all at once.

don't think so. this is my old set-up. 32 GTR, stock engine, stock turbos (could have been N1s never really sure,but I think stock). HKS actuators, stock dumps, stock Intercooler, stock front pipes, apexi pods, cat back exhaust, cam gears, profec B and Power FC, running 15psi/1.05bar. i'm trying to think what 100km/h is in 4th? about 3800 or a abit less I think. it certainly felt very responsive.

nice one. for poor people like my good self. ballpark me on the 355 6/ 343/4 option you went with? it seems to be the gun set-up. and i'm sure I'll need it when I get sick of the 34 brembos going on my old 32 now.

yep it sounds to me like AFM is history. if you can borrow a known good one and see how it goes.

if C&Y can do it for reasonable money and you want to be different then by all means do it. consider going for a 1.5JZ very popular with the drifters I've been out with around tokyo/chiba/further out. though they were mostly still at home in big toyota sedans and probably looking at 600ps for the meanest one. but they put them to good use on the mountain roads, industrial areas and circuits for drifting. and they sound awesome coming down the mountains, but not really any sweeter to my ear than a nicely done RB...

yeah I thank jeebus that I made hay while the sun shined. but I think the dream is dead now and we'll be talking about the 'good old days' for a few years to come... I've got 2 trips planned in the next few months but I might can the november one and see what happens. maybe shorten the jan one a bit too.

hi coop, cage looks very good. I see you have dry sump on the way and a PWR rad with oil heat exchanger like Russ's old one. hey if there is any 32 worth using as a blueprint for a fast reliable track R32 it's mark and russ's one!

it's a worthwhille mod to do while everything is apart. basically all you are doing is creating a new high point in the system. so it allows any air or steam build up in the head to get up into that rail, then out into the header tank. people use the factory bleed point as one, then add 2 or 3 more along it. some people even install nippples at other points in the heads water galleries, but you would need some decent know-how before doing those ones.

they covers have been painted, or stripped of paint and polished up. none of them came silver from the factory. you are right, it's most likely 33 or 32 engine with 34 turbos.

try envy imports. They recently bought a number of brand new RB26 heads and have been trying various different porting jobs and getting CNC programs done so they can now get them done on the CNC with hand finishing. I had a look at a few of the heads they'd done and they looked damn good. http://www.envyimports.com.au/contact_us.html 0408 637 489 Herman.

try kiddyland in harajuku. it's just on the main street, walk down the hill a bit from the JR harajuku station and it's on the right, near shakeys pizza. lol.

yeah with the dollar at 100yen import was a good idea. get car sooner and maybe save a few bucks. with the dollar at 60yen really you won't save any money importing. in fact providing nissan pricing remains at what they announced earlier then I would suggest you'd be paying a fair bit more to import one right now than if you just wait for nissan to get their act together. but if you want to know how much compliance costs contact IMG. they are the only people with compliance at the moment. http://www.internationalmotorgroup.com.au/gtr.html

shannons insured mine. and mate there is not set price for any car. insurance takes into account your age, location, sex, driving history, how often the car is used, where it's kept, your claim history etc. so just get some quotes yourself. what other people pay isn't relevant to anyone else.

if you want to upgrade your pump gears but the reimax ones. they are the best. they make the gears for group A race cars etc. formerly reinik. http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area.html up till a few weeks ago they were about $550 too, bit more now with the bad exchange rate though. but they are good stuff. I know a few people who have used them in pumps both here and in japan with good results.