AutoTrust

Manual cluster fixed that issue for me.

Hey Joe, You don't need to worry about how the hazards work, there is a separate wire for left and right indicators. It could be that the installer picked the feed wire from the flasher unit accidentally when he was testing. you just need to find where the connections are made and test. I'm not familiar with that alarm I only use Compustar and Viper, you may find a fuse blown from the alarm if it has two flasher circuits. I normally trigger parklights unless the customer insists on indicators. Why would you not want to see those taillights flash!

Wow, what a pain in the ass! The last battery earthing problem I came across was harder to diagnose than this but it wasn't confused with cam sensor problems and a forum thread! next time you have a problem make sure you state your vehicle specs at the beginning of the thread instead of drip feeding them throughout the pages. The workshop in question has overcharged you for the services performed without doubt. That said.... I cannot tell how you handled yourself or how they did. It seems to me that you have kept a level head throughout this ordeal and i feel for you. This type of problem should be treated as a valuable learning experience for the workshop and they should have charged you much less for the hassle of them learning how to go back to basics to diagnose a problem properly. Most of the suggestions made were good ones but few have the skills to work this out in a short time. A good quality jumper lead from the negative battery terminal to the block or a voltmeter in the same position would have sorted it out quick smart.... easy for me to say from the comfort of my keyboard!! Dead set it is hard to find good workshops... I am a auto elec and find it very hard to refer people to workshops because incompetence and overcharging is taught form day 1 in the industry! That is a harsh generalization that is sad but true. Dabro makes a good point or two... but like you has not taken the time to provide his name , car or other details in his avatar that make it easier and more comfortable for others to join in and make intelligent comment!( or talk shit...). All the best Danny

I agree a direct fitment part is ideal. I would be happier with a wet unit to match what I have, I don't mind the extra work to make it fit, if the exterior finish is the same then there would be benefit from beta testing. Here is a photo of the gear surround installed, please excuse the crap gearknob and busted hand brake boot.

I don't know what gave them the idea that the finish was disappointing, the quality of finish on the beta unit I tested was excellent. Sure it needed some work to get it to fit properly but the finish is horn. I'm fitting a nismo stitched shift boot to it now and have a half chub looking at it! mmmmmmm carbonfibre....

Hi Dale, that's disappointing. It would be handy if there was more information as to why and when. I am sure that if volume is an issue we could take a tally and Sniper could see that there is enough interest or orders to make it worth their while? Looking at the vote for wet versus dry carbon raises the question are they saying no because we are after dry and the tooling is cost prohibitive? I want a wet carbon main dash assy to match the gear surround. If they are not going to produce a wet main panel for R33 I would like to know so I can refinish the original one and forget about it. thanks, Danny

Hi Dale, It's a new year I hope all is well in the land of PSI. I am wondering if Sniper are moving forward with more carbon bits? I would love to Beta test an R33 main dash assy. I hope my report was deemed useful for the gear shift surround. Thanks.... Danny

Sucks to hear that, +1 for never park at a train station. :)

WTF, that sucks. You gonna fly down for a boys night soon?

Something everyone needs to keep in mind is that not everyones view is equally represented in a forum thread like this. There is always more to the story than is represented by lines of text. Importing can be a complicated process and it is easy to have a small problem escalate, and in this case it seems to be worse than it really is just from others reactions. Compliance workshops are bound by a strict set of rules that give them no leeway to bend and it looks to me that Hanyou is being looked after by J-Spec and the compliance shop considering the problems specific to this vehicle. At the end it will be all worthwhile cruising in the GTR

J-Spec all the way!

The most common cause for a car locking when you close the door is the aftermarket doorlock motor comes out of adjustment and will lock when the door is jarred. get the installer to pop the door trim off and check the adjustment. Don't know about the beeping. This problem can come and go and be confusing but is the most likely problem. My wifes car locked us out years ago, the alarm armed while the car was running and I was horrified as a highly experienced auto elec and accessory fitter to have to resort to smashing a hole in the cheapest window (windscreen) with the only tool i could find..... a brick from the building site my missus was heavily pregnant and crying as i gave it all i had to smash the extremely tough window!!

4 door is more rigid, I like it rigid. So does mi missus!

Forget about trying to get in there, Get a drift or a long cold chisel onto the 6mm stud and smash it off. Leave the other ones attached so the brackets don't munt your floorpan.

Kiwi Car carriers service is good over all when you consider the problems with other companies and the fact they are insured. Problems happen with all sea freighters, I am not giving Kiwi the big upps but I have had less problems with them compared to others and this is gaged over many years.

That's not 6x speed, you're Michael Knight with your finger on the turbo button!!

As Nike would say "just do it" if you're lazy get a cordless and an eff off big drill bit and go nutty!! Swiss cheese that fire wall!

Rianto, For starters, all of your batteries have a warranty and you should have been able to return the first one under warranty. If you run a battery dead flat it will not halve it's life. The only thing that will kill a battery is to store it on concrete. You have to expect problems with paperwork when importing a car because as you know there is a lot to it. Import brokers have more pull with their suppliers or agents in Japan and when there are problems they are fixed quickly. The import process also has a procedure to reduce the risk of problems like these from happening. You need original documents. You have had a fairly large amount of hassles and this will hopefully help you enjoy your car more than if it was easy breezy. Don't sell it, love it.

Jack the car up turn or remove the right wheel, remove or loosen the plastic inner guard and route the cable from the engine bay into the rear of the guard and then into the cabin through the large grommet that the main wiring harness runs through. Do it!

Camry V8 would be a nice addition even if it won't happen. Anyone watched Nascar lately? V8 Camrys everywhere

I miss my Celsior, Is is the most comfortable car i have ever had the privilege of owning, both to sit in and drive. Cost me 6k on the road and the missus made me sell it to buy my new Navara. If i could go back i would have kept it put it on gas fixed the AC dumped it (with an airbag module big deal) and put some big wheels on. So any one want to buy my Navara so I can put my skyline back on the road? It's perfect for onsite work........ that I don't do anymore! http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...amp;state_id=82

Like you don't know you're special, window licking poo flinging special!!! Nuttier than a hot snickers baby!!! Ash....... Pics biotch

Bugger, that's the only stuff that stopped my car pinging, may have to convert it to LPG now. 20 Killer Wasps......................AAAARGHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

Looks like the heater core has been bypassed, only a problem if you want heat in your car. If you remove the bypass and hook up the heater core you may find coolant pooling on the passengers floor. The second photo looks like the heater hoses were removed with the engine, this is normal practise but the rubber end caps on the actual heater core tell a story of a failed heater core.

In my limited experience running aggressively advanced cam timing with the correct or rich fuel mix will cause severe piston damage, alot of good points have been made in regard to general tune but in this circumstance it seems the same tuning error has been made three times. if this was a customer of mine or my own car i would be monitoring the exhaust temp or cylinder temperature on each cylinder for more information. I would also think that with these mods an aftermarket fuel pump and regulator would be part of the equation. The most likely problem is however that the drivers of these cars are most likely thrashing the living sh1t out of the engines regularly. When I was young I could kill a freshly rebuilt engine in a matter of months, or weeks if i was in the mood. When these cars were tuned what were the fuel ratios at max power? and WTF is with the 34 doing 260kph on a highway? that's 8000 rpm or there abouts..... PICS