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XKLABA

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Everything posted by XKLABA

  1. are you looking for second hand or new ? I brought the Platinum racing one and am doing an external pickup off the side of a performance metal craft extended sump otherwise I'm sure Pro engines do a kit with both adapter and pick up and so does R.I.P.S racing in NZ
  2. clutches are simple, it's force verse traction, the more torque you have and the more traction you've got the better your clutch needs to be, a modded 2.6 with 4WD go a twin plate clutch are the same as brakes the more friction area you have and the more clamping force on offer the better/easier the clutch will hold on so your looking at a single plate with 5 puks verse two full discs of the same material, the single plate would need to have a lot of clamping force to match the twin clamping force is what give the clutch its pedal feel ( though there are tricks to help make the pedal lighter but they can only do so much ) so the more clamping force the hard the pedal feels I had 5 single plates in 3 years the last of which was a custom pressure plate with 2500kgs of clamping force, I payed for two new clutch kits then they pulled them apart and put both spring plates into one pressure plate, I can't remember how many puks the clutch plate had but we worked out the surface area of each different late and used the one with the most area, as the torque of the car increased the clutches couldn't hold it, even this one only lasted 8 months the occasional trip to the drags after that I had had enough and forked out for an Exedy twin plate ( identical to the Nismo coppermax ) and that clutch has been in the car for 7 years and is holding another 60rwkw and a dozen or so low 11 second passes, 3 texis and a few trackdays ( one of which was me at EC by my self for 6 hrs till the dip stick flew out and covered the engine bay with oil) the motor came out for a rebuild 2-3 years ago and the clutch looked almost new and went straight back in and the car drives like the stock clutch and doesn't make a sound to give away it's in there and there are a few people on here that will state how I treat this clutch or you came come to the next texi and you can see for your self the punishment it takes and how easy it is to drive
  3. find a clutch/brake shop,they should have them on the shelf, the one around the corner from me at St Marys ( western Sydney ) always has some sitting there
  4. good, just waiting another fitting for the oil pump to external feed it which is going to work better then I thought with heaps of clearance from the AC, then 3 bungs into sump for the oil cooler setup and I came close the bottom end then it's just the hot side gaskets and lines Quaife diff and Ross balancer then insert it in car when I say ideas I mean copy you of coarse, things like the pipes into turbos, though I melted one of then, the surge tank, possible cams etc sorry if that's not clear to read I changed the turbo on my truck today and gave it a service and thought I could use a beer or 11 so far after doing so
  5. I'm doing the 2630 conversion into a GTR and if I started again it would be the BC 2.9 kit Paul, would love to see this on the dyno, I'm free Thursday should be done by then yeah keep the pics coming, love your work it gives me ideas
  6. interested in cf high wing stands and eye lid for 34
  7. yeah it looked much better, to me it looked like your clutch motion/timing was a bit off though, bit slow to get to the friction point then a bit to fast off the rest, which results in rolling off start line for a few meters then excessive wheel spin, your car clearly has the torque to pull second no worries it's just practice, and 6000rpm in second looks the money maybe look at slightly stiffer shocks, your squatting a bit fast and it looks to be hitting the bump stops well that's 3 beers time for bed
  8. that's it mate, more practice and that 11 will come, you have good mph do you think the second gear launch was better traction wise and with a few runs more do you think it will work for you 60" time on the last?
  9. Mark, how'd that last run feel, it looked better, no stall at least bit slow off line then some wheel spin then gone
  10. I think he means what does he do with the MB/ecu after he uses the case for the new computer PS, push them f**kers to get your motor done so we can see the results
  11. on the GTRs there is a line that runs from the underside of the plenum at the back near the brake master, that line runs under the plenum to a T from there one side runs around the back of the motor to the waste gates, the other side runs to the boost solenoid then back under the plenum around the back of the motor to the inlet pipe for the back turbo the restrictor in the line from the T to the solenoid in creases the pressure between it and the waste gates there for opening the waste gates sooner, removing it reduces that pressure which in turn keeps the gates shut longer giving more boost OP, try removing the controller and putting at straight joiner, that will give you waste gate pressure, what ever that might be
  12. try this http://www.rhdjapan....rness-kit-21120 I know there is one spacific for the R34 GT-Rs but I don't think this is a spacific one
  13. IMO the air has to go through a 2.5" hole from turbo so why increase it, 2.5" to intercooler, but then from the intercooler to plenum go the size of the plenum as the motor needs air to draw from till the turbo can push air to it, but this is from the voice in my head
  14. uh ha, which HKS EVC do you have if this is the controller you have then on each port is a symbol B is for the boost/vacuum signal line, run that to the back of the little steel pipe sticking out the back of balance tube towards the firewall I is for boost in, to give pressure to the unit to pass it onto the waste gates, run that to the smaller of the two pipes sticking out the bottom of the plenum near the brake master cylinder O is run to the waste gates, I run this one to the middle pipe that runs around the back of the motor don't worry to much about how the picture is setup it is for a different waste gate setup, and is just to identify your unit
  15. T off the factory boost signal at the back of the balance tube
  16. yeah rereading it it didn't come across well, I'm getting to old to take the 32 for long drives, it's great fun in smallish doses but after a few hours I show my age even the 34 will most likely get trailered next time I take it to Wakefield
  17. yeah I take a R32 GTR for long drives when I have an 08 Rodeo LT TDi 4x4 on dubs sitting at home
  18. and I get more then 500kms per tank
  19. lol, fight, I can ref it Insight Motorsport, stock turbos, stock cams, R32 GTR 11.13, need I say more
  20. what's the diameter of the turbo outlet
  21. no offence and I debated with myself for a while before posting this( waits for some noob to edit quote that line), but it the way you are driving the car, I have an 11.13 @ 123 mph in my 32, and 11.8 @ 118mph in the 34 ( I have only dragged the 34 once on someone elses setup ) so a 122mph should be a mid 11, read the how to launch your GTR thread and practice
  22. is this for the motor you doing for the HD ?
  23. 30psi with 9.3 CR, got a link I would be interested to see that one and what mods he has done, I know there is a guy on here with a built 2.6 engine with 9.3 running a little over 20 psi on 98, but then your dymanic comp ratio would change the amount of boost your can run also, with big cams creating lots of overlap and reducing the effective stroke will reduce the DCR so you might have 9.3 static comp ratio but then have big overlap and reduce the DCR to ( and this is just a guess for discussion sake ) 7.5-1
  24. 2001 R34 GTR v-spec II 11.87 @ 118 mph the day after I brought it it had 298kw with, Garrett 2860R -7 turbos HKS Cam gears (Intake & Exhaust) Tomei Poncam 260 degree Intake & Exhaust Camshafts Nismo 600cc injectors Nismo Fuel Pump Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator Trust Oil Cooler, with oil filter Relocator Apexi Power intake pod filters HKS Front Pipe HKS Cat Converter Blitz Nur Exhaust Apexi Power FC Apexi Power FC Boost Control kit (running 1.3bar) Nismo S-Tune Supension
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