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Everything posted by 89CAL

  1. I could go get a set of verniers and a thread pitch gauge and measure it, or I could ask on a forum where I may get the wrong information........ Seriously, any bolt shop even could have given you your answer in about 5mins. Why come on here and complain when you don't get an answer to a general question And as above, the balls in the stock heat exchanger are to bypass the filter when it creates too much back pressure (i.e. when the filter is clogged), this may also be the case when the oil is cold and thicker My stock heat exchanger is removed, yet I still have good oil pressure. Is it possible that the volume from the pump + the restriction created by the porting in the block + the bearing/rotating surfaces might possibly cause the restriction to increase the pressure? Not real sure. After all I am only a stupid SAU user. Not like I have a job that has taught me alot about flow, pressure and restriction
  2. 89CAL

    The fuel pump control module has likely failed. When the car drops back to idle it is supposed to drop the speed of the fuel pump to prevent excessivly circulating fuel. Sounds like the low side is playing up Direct wire your fuel pump through a relay as suggested
  3. 89CAL

    NPC do a twin plate that is supposed to be good. A friend had one in his R33 and raved about it i have an NPC single and wouldnt run any other single plate. No dramas and good support
  4. Have you adjusted the idle screw? Maybe it needs to be wound in a bit. Stock ECU?
  5. This is 6 pages of posts for what could be 2 posts of answer As already said, remove the stock boost solenoid. Its not useful anymore. Get rid of it Boost feed line from post (after) turbo to boost controller to turbo wastegate.all other lines that were connected to factory boost tee blocked off. Remove any tees that go nowhere. Block the lines that are open to atmosphere in the pipework Google how a wastegate works and it will make alot more sense i think. Im a bit worried that you are still feeding a vacumm to the boost controller. You did remember to wind the boost tee back out and wind it in slowly to set boost?
  6. Ok My problem is with FC-Hako and FC Edit to start with. And before I start I'll say I basically bought the FC-Hako to see if I could get it to work on 64-Bit Windows 7, even though it is not officially supported. This was talked about before I ordered it, and if I couldnt get it to work it wasnt the end of the world Anyway. FC Edit will work with the HAKO on my laptop, however it will after random time intervals apparently lose communication (get a warning "Interface Not Responding") There doesnt seem to be anything obvious that triggers it and I have tried a few things so far to fix it. First up I am running the latest Prolific USB to Serial drivers, have changed the COM port on the USB port I was using from COM 13 to COM 2, played with some of the basic settings for the device and also the FIFO buffers as well. I think lowering the FIFO buffers helped the problem but its hard to say because I could log from the Power FC for longer (it seemed) but it would still drop out At the moment with the latest drivers, and how everything is now - When it drops out ("Interface Not Responding") I have to close down FC-Edit and restart it to get it to log or read again, sometimes have to disconnect and reconnect the FC-Hako as well. When I had the original drivers on there (the ones I had used a while ago to trial a friends Datalogit, 2007 drivers that where on the datalogit disk) it would drop out and I could sometimes get it to start logging again nearly straight away by starting the log again Thats basically all I can think of now, basically taking a long shot and seeing if someone on here might have the magical answer for me. Its not an issue as I have access to a 32-bit Windows 7 laptop (which it works flawlessly on) but its not as convinent as using mine. System specs if it matters..... Windows 7 - 64 Bit version 4GB Ram 320GB hard drive Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4GHZ Thats all I can think of thats relevant lol..... Thanks Callan
  7. It doesnt sound like its charging properly at all. Remove the negative cable off the battery and the chassis. Clean the terminals, cable lugs and chassis point to remove any paint/dirt/corrosion etc. Check the cables on your alternator. Clean the terminals and lugs as well, check for tightness and contact. Also with your meter you can do some continuity checks to make sure that there is low resistance from the Alternator to ground and engine block to chassis ground. There is definetly a charging issue here though.
  8. Ypu need to check some voltages with the car running I would say. Sounds like battery is dropping voltage Have you checked your earth straps? The voltage drop will be affecting your injectors which is why you are seeing leaner AFR's. Ive seen the same thing with supply voltage issues to my ECU (ECU was seeing lower voltage then was actually being produced) Check (with a multimeter) the battery voltage at the battery and at the front relay box in the engine bay with the car running and report back
  9. I drove my Link over 30km to my tuner when I built my engine without really touching anything (bar setting up all the sensors etc) Was horribly rich, but made it there fine just cruising along.
  10. 89CAL

    Pay someone to do it Im sorry, but if you need a tutorial to rebuild your engine, you may not be ready for the work involved
  11. Google "PaulR33 Power FC FAQ' There may be something in there. As per above, I think the Apexi softwear you have to manually choose the COM port, but FC Edit I know has an auto function to work out which COM port is being used. However this does not always guarantee it will work Generally it will default to COM1 but if you are running windows, you should be able to go to hardware manager and see the USB to serial device there and it will either tell you what COM port is set in the properties or allow you to choose one Be aware that the outdated PS/2 cables that Power FC's use are tempremental at times and I have seen them play up if they have been bent, squashed or mistreated. If you have a handcontroller and it works, either something to do with the cable/box for connecting to the PC is stuffed, or you have a hardware/setting problem with the PC. As per above, some USB to serial adapters are terrible and some work flawlessly.
  12. 89CAL

    Was it tuned in winter by chance?
  13. Spark plugs use a soft metal washer to seal.
  14. Is it running the same AFM as the last car the Power FC was fitted to? Same injectors? Have you had a read of PaulR33's Power Fc FAQ? Im betting if you have fuel and spark then its probably a setting not quite right
  15. Take a photo of the "sensor/sw" page on the hand controller if you have one. Did you reset the power fc before you put it in? Might have a tune for a completely different setup
  16. 89CAL

    Youll need a wideband to check the AFR
  17. 89CAL

    Do you know what AFR it is running when it has the issue? Might have to richen it up a little Have you adjusted the idle screw recently?
  18. 89CAL

    5 volt sensors are designed to run between 0.5v and 4.5v. Anything outside that usually will cause a fault. This is general rule with sensors so not guaranteeing this will be correct Can you plug into the nistune?
  19. 89CAL

    Simple question. Is the radiator full and the overflow bottle at the right level? As long as their is fluid in there you should get an idea of what temp it is running at. If the temp seems normal (half or below), and there is no noticable leaks etc. then fair chance its not the cooling system. The stock gauge is not terribly accurate but i think you would see if there was a problem causing an overheat It sounds like possibly a coil on the way out that only shows up when the coil gets really hot after a bit of driving, but as per above really need a video to show the noise Last time I had a dead coil, could definetly tell that it was lacking power and sounded like a WRX
  20. 89CAL

    Dayco ones are fine. I run an RB30 Dayco fan hub in mine as I needed a little extra clearance between the engine and radiator. Seems to behave like an OEM hub Davies Craig are terrible. May as well just weld the fan to the water pump
  21. 89CAL

    Buy some new ones
  22. Have you thought about measuring the holes you have in the manifold and going off that. For what its worth, i had to machine my injector collars down for them to fit in my freddy manifold, however the stock rubber gaskets for the side feeds would sit in there fine so as a heads up you may need to modify something
  23. 89CAL

  24. 89CAL

    Thats the one