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Everything posted by 89CAL

  1. Nah. Ended up selling and went to a Link G4. Best decision ever
  2. O.K Not sure why but I am going to try and help further more Think of the way ECU's work. Inputs tell it what is happening, ECU makes calculations and controls outputs to change the running conditions of the engine Inputs talk to the ECU Outputs are direction from the ECU The CAS is an Input, so tells the ECU what is happening When you set the base timing to 15 degrees, that is setting the BASEline for the timing, its point of reference. ECU shows input of 15 degrees ECU fires coil packs at 15 degrees BTDC using the data obtained from the CAS. The coil packs are an output As per above, unplugging the TPS on stock ECU is the best way to lock the timing, it is obvious when the ECU is altering the timing as you can see the timing jump around (a couple of degrees only) If you are getting roughly double the expected value, I believe this is due to setting the timing light using the wire loop and not the plug lead method Now think about this. Assuming your ECU is locked at 15 degrees output and is outputting signal to fire at 15 degrees, what should the input (reference) be? A bit like your knock sensor discussion, I feel like you are overthinking it.
  3. * Waits for "I know this* Response then reply asking about why there is voltage there * I am not sure how this is taking so long to understand, especially with some smart people giving some smart answers. I feel like you have backed yourself into a corner and now just want to attack everyone saying your wrong rather then admitting that you made a mistake and you now have been given some knowledge. If you really want to get some information out of the knock sensors, something like the below may help: Ebay Oscilloscope
  4. I used small cans of metallic grey ford touch up paint on mine years ago. Was fine. Only reason I have changed since is have gone to dipped carbon fibre
  5. Loosen nut so even with top of threads, grab a large punch and hammer, have someone sit in the car pulling steering wheel while another person gives the shaft a tap (shouldnt need to hit too hard), off comes wheel
  6. I could go get a set of verniers and a thread pitch gauge and measure it, or I could ask on a forum where I may get the wrong information........ Seriously, any bolt shop even could have given you your answer in about 5mins. Why come on here and complain when you don't get an answer to a general question And as above, the balls in the stock heat exchanger are to bypass the filter when it creates too much back pressure (i.e. when the filter is clogged), this may also be the case when the oil is cold and thicker My stock heat exchanger is removed, yet I still have good oil pressure. Is it possible that the volume from the pump + the restriction created by the porting in the block + the bearing/rotating surfaces might possibly cause the restriction to increase the pressure? Not real sure. After all I am only a stupid SAU user. Not like I have a job that has taught me alot about flow, pressure and restriction
  7. The fuel pump control module has likely failed. When the car drops back to idle it is supposed to drop the speed of the fuel pump to prevent excessivly circulating fuel. Sounds like the low side is playing up Direct wire your fuel pump through a relay as suggested
  8. NPC do a twin plate that is supposed to be good. A friend had one in his R33 and raved about it i have an NPC single and wouldnt run any other single plate. No dramas and good support
  9. Have you adjusted the idle screw? Maybe it needs to be wound in a bit. Stock ECU?
  10. This is 6 pages of posts for what could be 2 posts of answer As already said, remove the stock boost solenoid. Its not useful anymore. Get rid of it Boost feed line from post (after) turbo to boost controller to turbo wastegate.all other lines that were connected to factory boost tee blocked off. Remove any tees that go nowhere. Block the lines that are open to atmosphere in the pipework Google how a wastegate works and it will make alot more sense i think. Im a bit worried that you are still feeding a vacumm to the boost controller. You did remember to wind the boost tee back out and wind it in slowly to set boost?
  11. It doesnt sound like its charging properly at all. Remove the negative cable off the battery and the chassis. Clean the terminals, cable lugs and chassis point to remove any paint/dirt/corrosion etc. Check the cables on your alternator. Clean the terminals and lugs as well, check for tightness and contact. Also with your meter you can do some continuity checks to make sure that there is low resistance from the Alternator to ground and engine block to chassis ground. There is definetly a charging issue here though.
  12. Ypu need to check some voltages with the car running I would say. Sounds like battery is dropping voltage Have you checked your earth straps? The voltage drop will be affecting your injectors which is why you are seeing leaner AFR's. Ive seen the same thing with supply voltage issues to my ECU (ECU was seeing lower voltage then was actually being produced) Check (with a multimeter) the battery voltage at the battery and at the front relay box in the engine bay with the car running and report back
  13. I drove my Link over 30km to my tuner when I built my engine without really touching anything (bar setting up all the sensors etc) Was horribly rich, but made it there fine just cruising along.
  14. Pay someone to do it Im sorry, but if you need a tutorial to rebuild your engine, you may not be ready for the work involved
  15. Google "PaulR33 Power FC FAQ' There may be something in there. As per above, I think the Apexi softwear you have to manually choose the COM port, but FC Edit I know has an auto function to work out which COM port is being used. However this does not always guarantee it will work Generally it will default to COM1 but if you are running windows, you should be able to go to hardware manager and see the USB to serial device there and it will either tell you what COM port is set in the properties or allow you to choose one Be aware that the outdated PS/2 cables that Power FC's use are tempremental at times and I have seen them play up if they have been bent, squashed or mistreated. If you have a handcontroller and it works, either something to do with the cable/box for connecting to the PC is stuffed, or you have a hardware/setting problem with the PC. As per above, some USB to serial adapters are terrible and some work flawlessly.
  16. Was it tuned in winter by chance?
  17. Spark plugs use a soft metal washer to seal.
  18. Is it running the same AFM as the last car the Power FC was fitted to? Same injectors? Have you had a read of PaulR33's Power Fc FAQ? Im betting if you have fuel and spark then its probably a setting not quite right
  19. Take a photo of the "sensor/sw" page on the hand controller if you have one. Did you reset the power fc before you put it in? Might have a tune for a completely different setup
  20. Youll need a wideband to check the AFR
  21. Do you know what AFR it is running when it has the issue? Might have to richen it up a little Have you adjusted the idle screw recently?
  22. 5 volt sensors are designed to run between 0.5v and 4.5v. Anything outside that usually will cause a fault. This is general rule with sensors so not guaranteeing this will be correct Can you plug into the nistune?
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