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89CAL

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Posts posted by 89CAL

    Rebuilding A R33 Gts 5 Speed Yourself.

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    Bumping this old thread rather than creating a new one. Not sure if it was in here or somewhere else but there used to be a useful thread with some photos of the gearbox internals that I can't find anymore (I see this has some photos that arent hosted anymore so are not found) 

    Does anyone have some decent photos of the internals of an R33 gearbox? I have mine apart at the moment and just want to confirm the orientation of 5th gear synchro as they have a little tab of metal one way and not sure if this acts on something or is just their for strength etc.

     

    Thanks

    R33 RB25 Front engine noise

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Worth a shot, but not saying this will be it

    I had issues with my CAS a long time ago after i disturbed it when I did my timing belt. Spent a long time taking top timing cover off and running, and putting it back on and running

    Noise went away with it off and CAS mounted, came back when cover was back on with CAS Mounted

    From memory the spacers were not installed in the gasket or something fun along those lines. Eventually ended up replacing the CAS to as it had a horrible bearing noise

    It was already suggested above but it would be worthwhile taking the top timing cover off and see if noise goes away

    • Like 1

    Plug under intake manifold rb25det s2

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    The First one looks like an aftermarket Knock sensor, might explain why its cut? Almost certain it is this:

    https://dealers.linkecu.com/KNS_2

     

    The other two plugs not too sure. are they just a single flat female (as if they would slide over a male spade terminal?)
    One has standard looking conduit over it suggesting that this was an aftermarket addition as well maybe?

    There are some temp sensors that are just a single wire and earth through the base of the sensor so it may have been for oil and coolant temp sensors?

    chinese ac compressors

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Hey all

    Bumping this one up

    Is there any local alternative to this? I have found what must be similar to the listing in first post (see below link) Just not 100% sold on this yet, but would rather take my chances and blow $300ish on this than pay the ridiculous prices for a genuine one.

    Have searched as much as I can, haven't come up with much

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33053210701.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.267cf764LRx3hF&algo_pvid=f38c89fb-0177-49e6-92c0-044673bd2233&algo_exp_id=f38c89fb-0177-49e6-92c0-044673bd2233-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"67446442179"}

     

    These are the numbers that look like suit an R33 GTST Series 1:

    Zexel/Valeo number: 506221-1102
    DKV-14D
    Nissan Number: 92600-15U01

    Will go through NAPA and so on to see what I can find but not expecting much from them

     

    Water Leak To Cabin... Any ideas?

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    On 9/23/2019 at 8:18 PM, tridentt150v said:

    If it is leaking at the firewall near the accelerator then you have to take the front wheel off, then remove the plastic guard liner [screws and clips].  Behind this there are a few grommets and such for gauges and cables etc.  You won't see these grommets in the engine bay.  I'll bet that one of the grommets has been split for aftermarket gauges or boost controller.  Silastic out of a caulking gun works.....well did for me....but that was almost 20 years ago.

     

    Ive had this problem as well but only happens when driving in the rain

    R34 won't hold gears

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    +1 to above

    I did something funny with one of the rubber boots or shifter once and it kept popping out of gear. Had a muck around with the boots etc and came good

    Simple test would be to remove the boots and take for a drive to see how it goes

    From memory I may have had the shifter in the wrong way round? Dont really remember though but it was not a hard fix just something silly I had done

    Low ignition timing at idle 25DET NEO

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    O.K

    Not sure why but I am going to try and help further more

    Think of the way ECU's work. Inputs tell it what is happening, ECU makes calculations and controls outputs to change the running conditions of the engine

    Inputs talk to the ECU
    Outputs are direction from the ECU

    The CAS is an Input, so tells the ECU what is happening

    When you set the base timing to 15 degrees, that is setting the BASEline for the timing, its point of reference. ECU shows input of 15 degrees
    ECU fires coil packs at 15 degrees BTDC using the data obtained from the CAS. The coil packs are an output

    As per above, unplugging the TPS on stock ECU is the best way to lock the timing, it is obvious when the ECU is altering the timing as you can see the timing jump around (a couple of degrees only)
    If you are getting roughly double the expected value, I believe this is due to setting the timing light using the wire loop and not the plug lead method

    Now think about this. Assuming your ECU is locked at 15 degrees output and is outputting signal to fire at 15 degrees, what should the input (reference) be?

    A bit like your knock sensor discussion, I feel like you are overthinking it.

    ECU CAPABILITY

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    * Waits for "I know this* Response then reply asking about why there is voltage there *

    I am not sure how this is taking so long to understand, especially with some smart people giving some smart answers.
    I feel like you have backed yourself into a corner and now just want to attack everyone saying your wrong rather then admitting that you made a mistake and you now have been given some knowledge.

    If you really want to get some information out of the knock sensors, something like the below may help:

    Ebay Oscilloscope

    • Like 1

    Any Way To Remove Factory Oil Cooler From Rb25det

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I could go get a set of verniers and a thread pitch gauge and measure it, or I could ask on a forum where I may get the wrong information........

    Seriously, any bolt shop even could have given you your answer in about 5mins. Why come on here and complain when you don't get an answer to a general question

    And as above, the balls in the stock heat exchanger are to bypass the filter when it creates too much back pressure (i.e. when the filter is clogged), this may also be the case when the oil is cold and thicker

    My stock heat exchanger is removed, yet I still have good oil pressure. Is it possible that the volume from the pump + the restriction created by the porting in the block + the bearing/rotating surfaces might possibly cause the restriction to increase the pressure? Not real sure. After all I am only a stupid SAU user. Not like I have a job that has taught me alot about flow, pressure and restriction

     

     

    • Like 4

    Fuel Pressure Dropping

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    The fuel pump control module has likely failed. When the car drops back to idle it is supposed to drop the speed of the fuel pump to prevent excessivly circulating fuel. Sounds like the low side is playing up

    Direct wire your fuel pump through a relay as suggested

    R34 gtt vacuum line diagram

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    This is 6 pages of posts for what could be 2 posts of answer

    As already said, remove the stock boost solenoid. Its not useful anymore. Get rid of it

    Boost feed line from post (after) turbo to boost controller to turbo wastegate.all other lines that were connected to factory boost tee blocked off. Remove any tees that go nowhere. Block the lines that are open to atmosphere in the pipework

    Google how a wastegate works and it will make alot more sense i think. Im a bit worried that you are still feeding a vacumm to the boost controller.

    You did remember to wind the boost tee back out and wind it in slowly to set boost?

    Intermittent Battery Warning Light (new alternator, new battery)

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    It doesnt sound like its charging properly at all.

    Remove the negative cable off the battery and the chassis. Clean the terminals, cable lugs and chassis point to remove any paint/dirt/corrosion etc.

    Check the cables on your alternator. Clean the terminals and lugs as well, check for tightness and contact.

    Also with your meter you can do some continuity checks to make sure that there is low resistance from the Alternator to ground and engine block to chassis ground.

    There is definetly a charging issue here though.

    Intermittent Battery Warning Light (new alternator, new battery)

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Ypu need to check some voltages with the car running I would say. Sounds like battery is dropping voltage

    Have you checked your earth straps?

    The voltage drop will be affecting your injectors which is why you are seeing leaner AFR's. Ive seen the same thing with supply voltage issues to my ECU (ECU was seeing lower voltage then was actually being produced)

    Check (with a multimeter) the battery voltage at the battery and at the front relay box in the engine bay with the car running and report back

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