Cubes

No not possible. It 'MAY' be possible if your using the racespec subframe bushes.

Swapped out Cas? Ignitor? I have a spare ignitor we can try if u wish.

You can drive around on a broken ring land for 1000-2000kays before drivability problems arise.

Another vote for leak down test. Forget the comp test as it doesn't always show until its obvious something is very wrong.

Yes.. My VLSD was stuffed. When cold it would open wheel the left wheel in a roll on acceleration in second gear. First gear would also spin up the left wheel. It was spinning the left wheel so much that there was very much noticable greater wear on the left rear tyre. Once warm second would hook up ok and not spin up through second but first would still just buzz the left wheel up. This only started occuring since the rb30det was dropped in. With the rb20det the diff was fine, it would only open wheel when turning left on a wet road. I'm assuming the worn vlsd hub simply couldn't handle the increased torque that comes on quite hard.

The 31spline half shafts I have are to suit a VLSD center. So the usual one long, one short half shaft. I've been told (but never tried) that you can use 2 of the shorter half shafts from a vlsd center in a mechanical center. You would have to confirm. The axles.. well they are just regular 6bolt 31spline axles. $150 + postage for those. I had them for $200 + postage but dropped the price. Unsure if the half shafts are suitable, you'll have to price up what you can get another half shaft for 'IF' it is possible that you can use the shorter half shaft from the 2 that I have. Let me know if you are still interested and in what. I'll package the items up and grab a quote for postage.

Thanks for the tips. Regarding rack ends. Grab them from peddars. Be friendly with the bloke and they may give them to you for trade. I paid ~$20 each.

ahh awesome.. Thanks for your input. I'll be grabbing one, mine currently feels like an old EH Holden, throwing the steering side to side I can see the rod wobbling around. lmao

Hey ppls, Recently did front and rear bushes on the R32 and discovered the steer rod that runs from the steering wheel to steer rack has stuffed bushes. <attached pic> I've found solid mount items but don't really want the increase in NVH that may result. Does any one know of any aftermarket urethane etc? Or who's ran the solids and found them to not increase NVH or hardly increase NVH?

First thing I did was a turbo back exhaust and 12psi boost increase. I then threw on a fmic and pushed boost up to 1bar, at this point my fuel pump fell over and couldn't keep up so on went a bosch pump. I found from 12psi to 15psi peak power didn't increase all that much (~12rwkw) but the mid range was a hell of a lot more lively. Mine ran that for years then eventually I finished off the new motor and dropped that in. Unless your going to throw on a larger turbo I wouldn't bother with an ecu remap or aftermarket ecu as the turbo is out of airflow anyway so there are very little gains to be had (unlike the r33 in the same situation)

Clint32 built up his 'hardcore' r32 gtst track car. Was awesome to look at. He purposely retained the vct and 9:1 comp ratio and still made the power he wanted. GT3040 on the engine dyno it pulled 580hp at 26psi.

Might be worth checking out a navara or something as the booster may be similiar and bolt up without too much trouble. Wonder what Nissan would want new for a gtr item.... :S Second hand + a heavy duty clutch its just a matter of when it does it again. Being 10-15yr old and all. Does any one have pics of the booster? Its been some time since I've seen one and able to run out and check the Navara. Funny enough a few things on the navara are the same as the R32. The door latch mounted on the door frame is one that comes to mind.

Mine has done it ever since moving away from the heat range 5 1.1mm gapped plugs. If I open the gap up the idle smooths out. The miss is stuff all but I guess it can be an annoyance if you expect it to be baby smooth. No such thing with a modified car.

Definitely.. Top work Trent.

I believe GTR's run a vac booster for the clutch. Much like all the new nissan 4wd's do. I'd say its stuffed.

Chirping has everything to do with your driving style and how good your clutch and the rubber compound is. Some rubber spins quietly while other rubber chirps. Comparing one car to another is simply silly. Our beloved skylines are old. Their diff's are crappy Viscous that open wheel with age. The viscous design is crap to start off with anyway, inorder for it to lock and prevent spin it must first spin, once a wheel is spinning its difficult for it to gain grip again. Which is why a good tight vlsd that reacts to the slightest slip will hook up MUCH better than one that allows more spin before providing torque to the opposite wheel. *unsubscribes from this silly chirping thread*

So hows the vct work? Just above idle it enables, then at the preset 4700rpm for example it disengages again. This increases overlap during the mid range to aid turbo spool and mid range torque, over 4700rpm it turns off as to reduce overlap and prevent reversion etc due to backpressure which by doing so helps top end.

Might be worth checking out if jaycar has anything suitable to trigger the vct from an rpm signal. I know I've said that before paul but surely some one on this site should be able to easily sort somethign?!? :S

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Use good quality elec tape, cheap stuff peels back and comes loose.

How would you do it? I'd prefer a big single myself.

Doing it by the colour of the wires can be dangerous as wire colours 'may' change with the year of the car. Grab a multimeter or simply reference what wire colour came from what origional position. Which is generally why its best to simply splice in the Z32 plug instead of chopping the old off. Makes life easier.

I had my cat light occasionally flash just before I would change up gear. It was a 5yr old ceramic cat that had travelled over 100,000km's. Pulled it off and big chunks dropped out of it, quite surprised it didn't blow out of the exhaust.

Mine has just recently locked up partially. It no longer cycles in and out at 2000rpm and I can now constantly hear it driving at 60-80km/h. In the last years I've thrown on second hand clutch fans. I've been through including this one 3. I've tried twin 12" thermo's mounted directly on to the radiator. It simply didn't work in traffic with the a/c on in hot weather. The twin 12" fans mounted directly to the radiator simply do not cover enough surface area regardless how much air they push. I might have another hit at thermo's, if I can't find a good set of el twin thermo's for a reasonable price I'll grab a cheapo ebay 16" sblade, rig up a shroud and see how it goes. If it causes problems no big deal I'll buy another visc. hub for $140 from the local auto shop and fit the fan back up.