Cubes

Andrew, Bring me up to speed with the carbon fibre look. I see you have rounded off the edges etc.. What is it like a thin sheet of plastic or something you place over the origional?

Paulr33.. Just simply pull the wires out of the loom ecu plug. A fine metal toothpick and it slides out. But then again Paul... I can't believe your still game after your last effort. haha

Not sure what others would charge but its not rocket science. Requires access to a datalogit and a little loom fiddling which is bugger all. I'd say in all, 30mins to 1hr max in labour providing the bloke doing the work has half a brain.

you could always modify an rb26 pfc.

Yer I changed oil about 4 times within the first 1000 km's. Overkill most likely. The important oil drop is after its first start. I cracked open my oil filter. Its probably not recommended as it scared me. :S

Check your knock sensor plugs haven't came loose/fallen off.

I've been in contact with one buyer. He said its different to the one I pointed him to and the one i pointed him to was better. I'm thinking maybe the guide has been modified to 'look' different. I'm waiting on an email with regards to similiar pics used. Might even be lucky enough for him to forward the guide sold to me.

I was told to keep it off boost. Some say to give it boost but not too much. Either way I went with what my engine builder recommended and have had no problems. No oil usage, good extremely equal compression good power and fuel economy. Basically.. I wired open the wastegate and drove it as n/a. I gave mine lots of throttle and varied engine speed avoiding cruise and in gear deceleration at all costs. The majority of my running in was done along the seafront down south through round abouts. Basically every time I accelerated I gave it full throttle, I varied the rpm of which I changed gears at. Initially I started the car let it idle for a few mins while I checked for leaks. I then hit the street for 10mins driving it with moderate throttle, got home and dropped the oil/filter. New oil in and then straight down the dyno for a quick afr check, then from there onwards I rev'd it to 4000-4500rpm, not all the time but the odd in gear hold through second gear. Its how my engine builder recommended the run in. Lots of throttle, varied rpm, no gear deceleration (pop it in neutral), no extended cruising or idling. Good luck. Also.. Blackwood auto & dyno used to do cheap as power/afr checks for $30. This was a couple of yeares back now though.

What sort of missfire did you have Crash? A consistent high rpm pop or just every so often? Did it ever completely drop a cylinder then idle smooth back out after a few seconds after a high rpm rev?

Hey Ppls, I'm having a look at an R32 GTS4 4door but it has a rear door that is quite stiff to close. Is this a common problem with the R32's or 'could' it be accident damage. I tend to doubt a stiff closing door could be accident damage but I'm not crash repairer. :S Any help would be appreciated...

I'm a sucker for courtesy lights. Turning on the interior light when dissarming and then fading off the interior light say 10-30secs or so after you get in to the car.

Confirmed price.. The wreckers want around $200-$220 EACH!!!! These are a bargain. 2 for 1.

All it means is that if the map states 16degree's then the ecu places 1 degree advance into the overall ignition timing. 18degree's and it places 3degree's advance. If your base ignition is out then the map ignition values won't be correct. i.e if your base cas ignition is 16degree's then the maps 18degree's will really be 19degree's. So unless you are unable to manipulate the maps ignition table there's absolutely no point running out of spec ignition cas timing.

lol... no.. you must be on drugs paul. haha

How do the clifford alarms rate? I've had one for the last 5.5years. The Previous owner had it fitted. It has some good features remote start, windows up etc. I'll be after an alarm on the new car if all goes good. The clifford has posed no problems so maybe? Better the devil you know? My old man recently had an alarm fitted to a new Navara. The alarm is simply crap, when it blinks the indicators it flashes the interior light and its supposively a 'feature' lmao. They are unable to prevent it doing so; and they won't remove it and fit another as its who Nissan get to do their alarms. There's a few other annoyances with it also, no courtesy light as its supposed to etc.

Manual cars are safer for P plater hoons. When those bendix standard or metal king brake pads fade after one or two hard stops you can use the gears to slow. Back in 98-99 I think it was I bought a VS 5ltr 5speed, only a few years old. The brakes on those things are not too good. :S Not speaking from experience or anything.

fatz is still recovering from the rb30 fury. So no vids until he's out of shock and mum has bought or he borrows a new pair of jocks. Quite a common reaction.........

Either way because you can't lower the motor the front cover still fouls the bonnet. Having mine lowered ~13mm I can see where its touching the hood lining. 10's should be a fairly easy task with good street tyres and 380rwkw. mattr's old r33 gtst with a shade over 300rwkw managed low 11's with slicks and a 5speed

Sorry buddy.. Thats against my religion.

Click the options button at the very top and select linear from the display modes.

Even the rb20/25 front timing gear cover still fouls with the bonnet. It requires choping to allow the bonnet to close. The 4door.. Its interstate and he wants 8k. It is cheap and 100% dead stock. It sounds too good to be true, I'll soon find out. Laying a deposit down first thing monday under the condition that it is in the condition he says, then jumping on the plane with a cheap flight down there and lmao.. drive it back. :S We'll see. Hopefully it all works out well.

Yep these are the stronger 31spline 6x1 bolt axles. The GTS4 drive line is pretty much identical to that of the GTR apart from the diff ratio being slightly lower at 4.375:1 vs the gtr's 4.11 to help the poor ol' rb20 lug that 1550kg's around. Unsure if gearbox ratio's differ. Do correct me if I'm wrong though. A mates GTS4 follows this suit and its also what I've been told by a couple of wreckers. I priced up the gtr axles a little while back. I remember the average price wanted was $175 each axle so 300 total. I will double check tomorrow just to be sure I'm selling these for a reasonable price.

Paul, did you end up having the std compressor housing machined up to suit or did Bill simply use the gt30 comp cover and run a silicon elbow to the ic piping?

The slide turbo's appear to offer a cheap excellent value upgrade. I couldn't bring myself to spending 2k on a GCG highflow for only 250rwkw odd. Spend another couple hundred and throw a tidy little GT3076r 500hp turbo on the side of it, thicker headgasket, 20-22odd pounds of boost and you'll have a damn good attempt at cracking 300rwkw. Shaun at Boostworx doesn't have issues having the rb25's holding together at such power levels/boost so it may be worth speaking to him to see what he recommends with regards to your spool expectations etc.

Spotted a Ceffy last night with a GTS25t badge on the right rear of the boot. Didn't look like any 25t badge i've seen before?!? Was the rb25t an option in the ceffy at some stage?