Cubes

That depends if its always done it or was fine for 4weeks after it was tuned like you said a few posts up. IF it was fine then all of a sudden it has started knocking again then no its not fine some thing is up with the car. IF its done it since its been tuned then also.. no its not fine, but its just a slight tuning issue. Take it back for a touch up as its difficult to simulate all road load conditions on a dyno. Tell Shaun what road speed and gear its doing it at and he will fix it up. Its no big deal, just give him a buzz and let him know whats going on. But do make sure you make mention that it was fine for the first month or so and has started knocking and explain the conditions of when it knocks. Regarding high knock... I'd be concerned with anything over 45ish. Occasionally you might get the odd little spike to 40 odd but thats nothing to worry about. If its always hitting over 45ish then all that is required is a degree from one or two of the load/rpm points.

LOL Tangles.. Always the way. Mind you thats some pretty bad luck. Cast manifold splitting in two?!?!?! :S

Take it back because some thing is obviously not quite right with it. Once its tuned its tuned, unless you manually select to initialize the powerfc it shouldn't start knocking. Another place to look is dodgy knock sensors, bad crank angle sensor or excessive blowby that is causing the knock. There's obviously something up with the car. Get it back on the dyno to see whats wrong with it. IF its just a bit of high knock when loading it up in a high gear at low rpm this is because its near impossible to simulate road conditions on the dyno.

I have a FMIC that has a near center core inlet and outlet. Having the inlet near centered allows a 180degree bend. Mine is setup so that the hot air runs from the turbo obviously then under the fmic to the drivers side, 180degree bend and in to the core. The cooled air then has a short run to the cross over pipe. Appears to work fine. I'm going to be selling it soon as I need something a little bigger to support 300rwkw odd. This one appearently has a 1.5psi pressure drop at 580hp worth of air so it could probably do it but..... I want a newy.

CEF11E, Did you have the back lash etc all setup or did you jack wack it in and hope for the best? If so who did you get to setup the backlash and how much?

When are you looking at it? When the motor is cold? I bought a genuine nissan o2 sensor. When cold it reads 3.98v then within a km or 2 it slowly drops down to the 0.20-0.9v and begins cycling back and forth as it should. It begins cycling once the engine temp reaches over 40degree's.

Yep Buddy... Motor Traders, Edwardstown. BCPR6E. Check the gap as 'sometimes' they can vary a touch. Last time I bought a set they charged $2.80 each.

I've seen the way you drive. You don't need a turbo timer. As long as you just 'krooze' it for the last minute or two you can safely shut down the car and let the thermosyphoning take care of the rest.

I find the NGK Cheap coppers are good for 20,000km's. I pull them out and they still look fine but the gap at that point starts to grow. 30,000km's and they are pretty stuffed but still appear to drive fine. All rounded off big gap etc. 300rwkw odd and they will get chewed up a little quicker, depending on your driving style. But still 20k from a set of plugs worth $17 total for the average line is perfectly fine. Ripping the plugs out isn't hard nor does it take long when you have the tools sorted for the job. It shouldn't take longer than 1hr to get a set of plugs in and out providing you have the tools for the job and organise yourself.

Just get NGK.. You can't go wrong. Ring around. Repco are rip offs.

The BCPR6ES are the non-vgroove ones. Also.. shop around you can get them for under $3 a plug. Motortraders/Coventry's (google it for the outlet in your area) do them for under $3, they also stock the BCPR6E plugs which most dont. Autobarn stock the BKR7E plugs where as most others dont. --- Yes.. My 7's (BKR7E) used to foul on the pfc's stock water temp enrichment table. I leaned it off quite a bit which stopped it. Car actually drove a fair bit nicer too, not as boggy feeling when stone cold. I have no need for the 7's so next set I dropped in the usual BCPR6E plugs.

14psi with no aftermarket management, stock pump etc.. Bit of a warm day....... He will be at Shauns before he knows it.

Either the BKR7E or the BCPR6E. Basically the same plug, one simply squashes the coils spring a little more as its slightly taller. Champion = crap. Buy NGK.

Definitely a good full exhaust and most importantly a 'good' dump pipe. I bought a $1660 exhaust system and found the dump pipe to be complete crap. The 3" pipe didn't stretch over the flange correctly causing a v rise about 15mm smack in front of the turbine wheel. Bodgy bastards. EBC's do work. BUT a free mod is to modify the actuator. I enlongated the 2 mount holes so that I could adjust it. Worked so well I sold my EBC.

Hrmm.. the dyno must read way low or the car has issues. I ran an rb20det turbo on my rb30det (25 head) and that made 176rwkw on 9psi, boost peaked to 12psi and then tapered off to 9psi by peak power. No boost control just straight off the actuator. Peak power was made at ~4800rpm. It was all over by 5500rpm. :S It won't matter if its an rb20,25,26 or 30. The rb20det turbos will always make 165-180rwkw when tuned depending on motor condition, exhaust, cat convertor etc. The rb20det requires ~1bar where as the rb25head requires ~9psi to make that power.

I'm in. I'll see you there Ash.

lol. Exactly what I was about to post. There's a big sign as you enter the interestion ppls.

Buy a second hand one.

Last cruise there was an R33 with the led tail lights. They looked ok BUT from a car lenght or two back they looked strange as the lights looked small, almost as if the LED's needed to be positioned outwards a touch more. Side by side the origionals looked shiet loads better. Nice size and well proportioned to the size of the arse end. IF the LED's looked as if the lights were larger they would have looked quite good. BUT thats only my opinion, I was sitting behind it through the hills.

Yes Abs.

lol. My diff is coming out again soon as the shim didn't work as expected. Corner exit is excellent, both wheels twin up perfectly and give good drive or drift if you wish but straight line acceleration still buzzes one wheel through first and second. Once the diff is warm (30mins of driving) second gear hooks up ok providing I don't get over excited and slap it a little quick. lol the weight.. With the diff bolted in I could only left one side at a time as I wiggled it under the car + I was stuffed from hacksawing the bushes out.

Its around the mark considering its running the fcd. BUT 14psi is iffy on the R34 turbo. Generally 11psi ish makes that sort of power (maybe a touch more as the R34 turbo's ted to push 10-15rwkw more than the rb25det turbo's so 210-215rwkw) when ign and fueling is optimal (ecu).

What rhymes with Dodgy.. Bodgy.. I think Antony/Forza/Mt. Franklin should get the set of plates Bodgy 01.

Quite possible your old diff was opening wheeling a touch then. Especially if it would break traction/chirping and not step the arse end out at all. As said.. in second especially an r33 with those mods shouldn't be chirping the tyres as it accelerates. I don't mean chirp when you change gear but a constant chirp chirp chirp chirp as you accelerate. Road surface also makes a massive difference to grip. R31Nismoid a mate since he fitted new tyres (nankang ns2's lol) it generally doesn't break traction in second gear with his rb30det gt35r gts4 (in RWD mode) making 270rwkw. Well some times depending on road surface it will ever so slightly spin towards the end of second gear at around 5500-6000rpm but regardless thats making close to 200rwkw at 4000rpm so if anything that should break traction.

Maybe the diff is in better condition, maybe your running better tyres? The point is a stock ecu'd r33 or even pfc running 10psi shouldn't be breaking traction through second gear.