Cubes

First up... Slap the stock hsf back on it with only a light smear of goop. Use your finger to slightly smear it across the top of the cpu so that you only 'just' can't see the heat spreader. Boot the system, jump in to the bios and check the cpu temperature and voltages. Ensure they are all within spec. Do you have a multimeter? With the power on shove the neg in to the black 24/20pin m/board plug. Then carefully check: (hold for 5secs or so) Yellow - 12v Red - 5v Orange - 3.3v If they come up fine give the fan header a quick check. Failing that.. Swap cpu's out, if all's dandy then the cpu is buggered. I tend to doubt the cpu is buggered UNLESS you have left the cpu on when its had overheating issues. A quick blast at 75-90 odd degree's the cpu will handle. When the system is fixed... Stress the bugger using Prime95 and or 3dmark etc.. hammer the system. While its being hammered grab the multimeter and check the voltage drop, there should be next to no voltage drop. IF voltages drop out of spec replace the psu. A voltage drop of 0.01-0.02v I think is acceptable.

Grab the garrett .63 int. gate not the butchered rb housing.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/ROGUEPI_W0QQssPa...sQ3amesstQQtZkm Roguepi often has GT30 int. gates available for ~$1800 He has the compressor cover shrouds - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GT30R-COMPRESSOR-SH...8QQcmdZViewItem

Do they have the full race though? A single race should be the full length of the dvd. I've got one where they have squeezed 3 on to one disk and basically it sucks. They have chopped out that much its not funny. I've got 3 full 1990-1992 vids BUT they are poorish quality (DivX 320x240 vhs copy), none the less they still look ok on a 68cm tv, computer screen they look horrid.

Now what would be nice to see is how much power less (if any) it would make if you were to leave the stock air box and replace the afm -> turbo pipe. OR.. If you were to open up the std box and feed a decent cai in to it. But yes.. Any dyno sheets we can see a back to back? Would be interesting to see where it began sucking in.

They max out before 300rwkw though, but that doesn't mean you can't make more power; you simply tune it as one would a map based ecu.

lol.. Paul. I'm in the same boat as you. My turbo just let go. Big cloud of smoke. :S

LMFAO!!!

Not 100% sure if you meant it has 6 coil drivers or it is able to drive 6 coils *in batch mode* Question him if it has 6 coil drivers.. Being able to drive 6 coils is irrelevant as almost all ecu's are able to do so, in BATCH mode. Don't use batch mode coil drivers on the RB's or your asking for trouble. If you need the coil dwell times etc drop me a PM.

I had a VS 5ltr 5speed thing that had IRS. It sat on superlow Bilstein suspension. That had massive rear camber where new tyres only lasted 5000km's. Bridgestone at Noarlunga sorted out the camber and had it running from memory -0.5 on both sides and it hooked up so so much better. I was then able to launch it with around 2500rpm vs just off idle without the camber kit. My left wheel was worse than the right *on ya Holden* so they had to throw spacers under the spring to level up the left and right height. But turned out really good. Cost me $500 for the camber kit. I believe the camber kit was from Whiteline also. Pedders and others at the time claimed they had a camber kit but it was nothing more than a toe kit with limited adjustment. lol... then it ripped the swaybar risers out of the struts, then the rear IRS subframe split completely from one of the diff bolt up holes, then the diff went, then the gearbox. It was fine with stockish power levels. Anything more and the drive line couldn't hold it. :S

Pauline. Here's the link to Disco's thread. I may have got some of the detail wrong so double check against his thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=147580&hl= Also remember the quoted rwhp figures within that thread are fromt he US. So a touch higher than we generally see here.

Stick with what you have its a known. Better the devil you know. I really doubt the 52t GT30 will be better than you currently have. In theory it should but theory doesn't always = practice as you know.

Yes thats fine.. I was talking about whats considered to be the real GT30r (6blade etc) .82 that will crack the 300rwkw mark. That old T300s looked like quite a good thing by its dyno sheets. The GT3071r .63 I think will struggle past 260rwkw. They are responsive but..... well I really think GT3076r 6blade .82 is for 300rwkw, even then it is on its 'limit' and won't be done unless you run some good boost 20 odd psi, cams might possibly be needed. If you want to step down slightly and pick up a little more response grab the 52t GT37 comp wheel. Discopotato03 is the man to speak to he knows all the ins and outs of the GT30 and its compressor wheels. He has a thread laying around in here some where.

I think this is what made me think having it pull hard by 3200rpm onwards.

Being off a 4cyl it may not be suitable. The RB's are notorious for killing coils when they are run in batch mode. You NEED 6 coil drivers. Djetro.. yer but the bang for buck is lost. Every ECU has its place in the market. Paul.. The other thing with the Wolf... Drop a cheap couple hundred auto in to it with a manual shift kit and run that quick 1/4. Then claim that high 10sec 1/4 with only 400rwhp not 500odd.

Thats exactly it Adrian. I have no doubts about Mildren Race Engineerings tuning ability to top it off they are top blokes. http://www.mildrens.com.au/ Last time I was around there they had an interesting dead stock looking VS v6 commodore pushing out 320rwkw through a pair of turbo's on 12psi. It had P plates stuck on it. Shaun on the other hand.. He just has that nack where he can tune almost anything. BUT I know what he will recommend Paul. The PowerFC.

Yep that is what I was getting at. By the time you add the rather featureless uncustomizable PowerFC Boost kit for ~$400that brings the price up to $1400 odd. You then need a Z32 or Q45 AFM thats another few hundred. Is it worth the extra $300-$600 for the Wolf3D. If I had the cash at the time I would say yes, purely for the multiple map ability and datalogging should you want to hit Mallala. As the Wolf can run MAP pick up a stuffed AFM for next to nothing or use your own and knock the guts out of it, leave it sitting in its origional position for when the mr. policeman pops your bonnet.

Paul, 3200rpm and 300rwkw. It won't be happeneing on an RB25. RB30 yes, but RB25 no. You will be looking at ~4000rpm until your pinned in the seat. Well on Shauns dyno anyway.

If you want to go another ECU I think the Wolf3d v500 is a nice option. Its ~2k (plugin) + tuning. Do remember the PowerFC is 1k BUT it doesn't have boost control, the wolf does. Mildren Race Engineering are the SA mob to see for the Wolf. The Wolf3d V500 is everything I would want in an ECU. Sequential Injection 6 Coil drivers Closed Loop o2 Boost control VCT control High/fine resolution load/rpm points and the list goes on..... http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html

The SAFC is fine if you are sticking with the std turbo. Anything bigger and you WILL NEED an aftermarket ECU. The SAFC will not cut it as you will experience that funky R&R. If you have plans never to throw a larger turbo on it is difficult to justify the 1k on a PowerFC + tuning. In my opinion anyway. A s/h SAFC can be picked up for $200-$300, throw a cheap $30 bleeder on cheap fmic kit, s/h cat back, an hour or two on the dyno $100-$200 and its done. The PowerFC will give you more average power and better economy over the SAFC, but for $700 is it worth it? Thats up to you. The SAFC is really for those RB's setup with a cheap bleeder, cheap fmic kit and a second hand exhaust. If your going to throw money at the car and throw a decent $700+ FMIC, good exhaust, EBC etc you may as well throw another $700 at it for the better ecu. I think you know what I am getting at.

Who exactly says no to it? The majority of people on this forum run a PowerFC, the minority don't. There's nothing wrong with the pfc apart from the issue with obtaining an afm with high enough resolution for 300rwkw+. Once the afm runs out of resolution you tune it crudely, similiar to that of a map based ecu.

Paul, Its the afm bashers that slag the PowerFC. If your only going to use the car for street duties and maybe the 'occasional' track use grab a regular powerfc. They are fine, have knock control, return good fuel economy, cold and warm start perfectly. They are an excellent ecu. If you've got plans for 300+rwkw and your really going to sink some $$ in to the car throw 2-3k+ ecu in to it and be done with it

Well I sure have a choice. Jazza.. Lonsdale isn't too far from where I am so I'll give them a buzz and see how booked up they are next week. Thanks.

China know their electronics.

lol excuses.. I bet u were bangin' them in as fast as u could. Mattlowths I believe was run on street tyres also.