Cubes

I have heard the caster bushes are a pain the arse to remove. Both of mine started leaking around a year or so ago and have finally stopped leaking but make loud clunking noises. :S So they are well and truly stuffed. So given mine have already broken I should be ok yes? Have you ever tried a hole saw on the end of a drill to help break them?

Can't wait!!! ------ Regarding the installation of bushes. INSTALLATION PROCEDURES * All suspension parts must be clean and free of paint, rust, grease and previous rubber deposits before fitting Nolathane components. * Mounting pins, eyes and shoulders must offer no pitting, bending or distortion prior to fitting Nolathane components. where suspension parts show signs of deterioration or damage, they must be either replaced or repaired to manufacturer's specifications. * Use lubricant supplied in kit. Grease all bush surfaces which are designed to pivot (i.e. internal bores and flange faces) . Do not grease outside surface of shackle bushes. Additional grease is available. Part number CVG10 (10 X 100g sachets) * After Nolathane components have been fitted, vehicle must be at normal ride height (i.e. sitting on wheels unladen) BEFORE final tightening/torquing of location bolts, nuts and shackles is carried out. * Before installing in vehicle, crush must be checked. Nolathane bushes have been designed to suit standard applications. Should vehicle be equipped with aftermarket suspension packages, size of bush must be checked for correct crush and outside diameter. All flanged bushes must offer 0.5-1 mm crush on each shoulder.

Did you re grease them every so often as you are supposed to? They look dry. Torqued up correctly? Not just a yep that feels tight enough? Just trying to get an idea of how/why they failed. Maybe 4yrs with the type of driving and amount of kays is about right????? I have NFI when it comes to bushes. I used to have my VS Commo 5ltr 5speed bushes greased every 20-30k otherwise the slight squeek would jack me off. They were whiteline bushes but. There was one squeek turning in to my street as it went over a slight dip as I was turning at low speed that I couldn't get rid of. Then it went and ripped the sway bar riser out of the strut so in went whitelines riser to lower control arm kit that really firmed up the car nicely.

I think Mark did the upper control arms on yours Darren. Unsure about caster and lower control arms.. But either way easy enough to get the kit then sell off the upper control arms.

Hi ppls, Just a little heads up. I've been hunting around for front end bushes and stumbled upon Nolathanes Front End Vehicle Enhancement Bush kit for the R32's. The best price I have tracked down is $345 + Postage. I am waiting for them to be delivered via TNT Road express as I type, tomorrow I'm off to grab myself a cheap $150 12tonne press. I've always wanted a hydraulic press. Back on topic... The kit I have coming to me is to suit the R32 GTST. It contains: Front Adjustable Upper Control Arm Bushes Front Lower Control Arm Bushes Front Adjustable Caster Rod Bushes and.... When you fill out a form within the package Nolathane send you front end sway bar bushes. Its almost too good to be true for $345 + postage (~$18). I've seen them go elsewhere for $400 and some places $500 for the same kit! PM me if you want to know where I got mine from; however, until I receive mine there's no guarantee's. I've attached a couple pics of the kit and whats in it. Note the blue marks. Nolathane also do a bush kit to suit the R32 GTR and R33 GTST. I'll report back once the bushes are in to let you lot all know if NVH increases as Nolathane bushes some years ago 'used' to be quite hard *from experience in a previous car*. Nolathane do however claim

Awesome Darren. Such a pitty AIR isn't open.

Would you really save $500 over a 'performance' shop? The important thing is to take it to some one who knows the RB's. Motors are not motors. Some one who doesn't deal with these RB's doesn't know that its recommended to replace the studs along with the tensioners at 100k. replace just the tensioners and retorque it up, possibly a little tight as they take a guesstimate and 5000k down the road BANG.. one broken stud and valves kiss the pistons. If your 'performance' workshop is charging a shit load more for basic servicing I say find a performance workshop who is sensible as there is simply no need for stupidly priced servicing.

Look at the cas and its drive. also the tacho its self.

There's a bloke here that runs his stock rodded rb30 up around 373rwkw. BUT he keeps rev's under 7000rpm. The concervative rev's is probably whats holding it together.

Yes it does sound strange.

<scratches head> erm.. he's said Tacho. Not speedo. If it is his tach then I would be looking at the tach its self or CAS as the CAS is where the tach gets its signal from.

Nissan N1 water pump...... There's no need. Take it to some one who's had experience with the r33.

yes that is a rather nasty 5th gear. If you can save a penny.. Why not.

Whats the car used for? Street duties? He may be better off with a 3k stall convertor and shift kit. Push the boost in to it and the manual will have a damn hard time keeping up with it off the line. Auto's are always better for straight line. If thats what he enjoys and does most keep the auto.

Quite possible.. Got pics of the silvia box? I remember seeing a few and it did look as if the bell housing of the silvia was longer, but it can be deceiving. Are you sure ratio's are the same though.

3" Exhaust.. Get a coke can and chop it up to the flange shape. Then drill a few large holes in the sucker. Silicon it all up place it behind the cat. Wait for it to dry then run a bit of grease and oil in to it and get it hot to make it look a little aged.

Mine used to kick in at what looks like 185km/h, so yes off the speedo. Its a soft speed limiter, not a harsh thing. Hows it running anyway? Got it on the dyno for a power run to check the general afr's etc to ensure its in good health? Blackwood auto and Dyno used to do power runs for $35 a couple of years back. They also would hook up the datascan to check general sensor operation and let you know if there was a problem with anything. Top blocks down there.. Just I've known Shaun @ boostworx almost since he got in to it many years ago so my loyalty stays with him.

Basically.. Take it for a good drive. Up Willunga hill. That will reveal any cooling problems and on the way down brake problems. Then there's the usual oil/coolant leak, rust, compression/leak down and power run checks. Something of which sinista and nozilla can't really do. You really are best off taking it to a place like boost works and asking for a general test drive, inspection, power run, compression and leak down test. Get it on the hoist. So do both... I did when I bought mine and 2 cars prior. They questioned the 30min drive up Willunga hill but at the end I said if they can't make time to come well its not meant to be. I laid down a deposit and went for a drive with the owner/car yard sales man.

RB20DET box's seem to go for around $500. 20mm shorter.. I wouldn't think 20mm would cause a problem as the yoke slides in quite far. I doubt it would strip the yoke due to it being 20mm less BUT it may cause some other issue I am not aware of. Either way.. I would probably try it if it were only 20mm, just be sure to have that tail shaft catcher in place as it wouldn't be too fun having the yoke break and the tail shaft trying to flip the car.

Everything you listed. Some (gauges) depending where its positioned.

Diff whine is fairly common. The r200 diff they run are known as the jap ford 9". I've had experience with boostworx so i'd have to recommend them. However.. Check out the workshop listing sticky at the top of the sa section for a list of otherworkshops that are also good.

Not unless your pushing mid 20psi and over 300rwkw. The stock items provided the car is tuned well hangs in there without problems. Detonation.... And you will crack ring lands. There's one bloke thats been pushing 373rwkw through his rb30 bottom end thats running stock rods but precision hyperutetic pistons with a rev limit ~7000rpm. He mentioned not to go ACL hyperutetic pistons as they are not so good at high power levels. So they are definitely tough motors.

Did you send in a VOA? Si generally indicates poor air filtration. What else made you think it was a poor uoa apart from the high levels of silicon?

I vote for servicing the car your self. Send it in every year or so for a check up/power run on the dyno. The money you save on paying some one else to drop the oil you can then put towards a turbo/ecu and make it a 'real' sleeper; not just another 170-200rwkw r33.

Antony... The height looks just nice. hehe whats that bomb parked in front of it?