Cubes

Darren, The converter aside how smooth is the top end of the graph? Nice and smooth? I've noticed as valve float occurs that's not really noticeable (i.e pumping up lifters or massive nose overs) the graph tends to start to wobble up and down slightly away from the usual smooth curve and as you dial in more boost power doesn't pick up as it should. The valve springs may appear in top shape but for the boost you are running they will be nearing the limit. Some with rb25 heads begin to float at around 20psi others have no issues up to 25psi. It 'may' be possible the cams have a slightly more aggressive ramp rate that pushes the springs just over the edge *slightly*. Enough so that it just won't make any more power even if you dial more boost in. Pushing more and more boost in will have power nose over hard and it will pump the lifters up. Its going to be a pain in the arse to diagnose as it a few changes have been done at once. Hows it go if you dial in less boost? Big power drops or? 270rwkw through an auto.. I'd expect that to be done on around 17-18psi behind an auto.

Your 33... mid life.. Still running the std turbo? Sounds like a nice exhaust for something along the lines of a GT30.

lmao Madaz.. Krusty.. I haven't seen him walking around for years.

hrmm not always.. as I found out I had tint on my front windows, the cars not lowered and doesn't have a milo tin. (sort of contradicts my previous post lol) There was a defect station down at Marion shopping centre in the middle of the day. Went for a little shopping with the other half and the bubs in the back when a copper stopped traffic, walked 3 cars down and told me to pull over. He said he spotted my tint as I came around the corner and its was too dark (it was 30%) and I had to remove it otherwise he would defect me, so off it came. He gave the car a quick look over but didn't ask to pop the bonnet *luckly* as the car didn't have the carbon canister installed as the stupid crash shop forget to do so. I was driving unbelievably slow as I had just turned a corner behind traffic and literally just limping the 3ltr around at 1500rpm it was making zero noise etc. I think that was just bad luck.. Prior I had driven the car around for just over 4years with the same dark tint on it. BUT I don't do the usual Anzac/Hindley/Rundle runs. Its basically just an A to B car.

The paths?? No paths through sandhills down Moana way (apart from southport which is crappy anyway). So no snakes. I used to do surflife saving at Southport for some years through my early to late teens, only saw one snake in the sand hills in all those years but I did see a big arsed Rats and heaps of rabbits on many occasions. I was comparing Flagstaff Hill to Moana, not Semaphore with rugged sand hills. But generally speaking... Inland there's more snakes than near a 'tidy' beach such as pt noarlunga south, seaford and moana. lol at Maslins.. You mean home of the genital piecing. When we used to cruise around on our deadly treadlys we went for a ride down Maslins beach, got the shock of our lives. All old fogies with pierced genitals. :S

Correct. But they are far more prelevant in the flagstaff hill area due to the Gorge and inland. If you don't like snakes it really is as simply as living near the beach away from creeks and keep your own garden tidy. ----- With regards to insurance.. The price difference between Moana and say Flagstaff Hill (the dearer) for myself was almost $200 per year. ----- Up north has smelly air and is hotter in summer. Down south is more so a beach bum laid back type life style.

Best way not to get caught.. Don't lower it No big arsed Milo Tins Keep the exhaust reasonably quiet No tint on the front windows No interior guages illegally mounted No pfc hand controller in view. Wheels are fine providing they are legal. In other words keep it looking stockish. Its the lowered + milo tin that gets their attention. Thats from the horses mouth.

I managed 142.

No need to worry about snakes.. Stick near the beach, away from creeks and keep the garden tidy and you'll be fine. Let a couple of Daddy Longleg spiders live in your house and they keep the other nasty's away, I catch moths for my big arsed daddy long leg I have living in a corner. lol Damn nice GTR. Extremely Clean.

I've grown up down south (Moana way) and love it. The beaches are awesome, the air is clean/fresh, crime rates low/insurance cheaper, big open roads, not cramped up. Plenty of shopping (Collonades & Superbarn complexes) Love it. Its also a few degree's cooler than in closer to Adelaide. It is however ~40mins away from the City. BUT 17mins is on the southern expressway so its a nice easy drive. As I've grown up down south I also know what area's to try and steer clear of.. Christies Downs (housing trust), Hackham West (housing trust) and the not so bad but not good Morphette Vale. Moana, Moana Heights, Seaford, Pt. Noarlunga South on the west side of commercial road gets my Vote. As for Work.... http://www.seek.com.au/ Select the appropriate area and your off. I've just finished a Course at Flinders University. Which is ~17mins from the southern Moana Area. I am currently living with my other half up around finders but I won't live here as within a few years we have lost 2 cats due to snakes, 2 friends I know in the same area; 1 has lost his cat another got their cat to the vet in time and it was ok. So bugger this area.

300zx... If the RB30 is going in to a RWD then its very straight forward and will cost the same as rebuilding the RB25 with the ONLY exception being the head modification for VCT IF you run an R33 GTST head. If its going in to a GTS4 or GTR then there is quite a few added little costs with lots little buggering around to get everything to fit. RWD + RB30.. Piece of piss. When I dropped my motor in and everything bolted up I sat there for a second looking, double checking and triple checking everything was ok and in as it seemed all too easy. Started her up on the stock ecu and drove it like that for close to 10k.

One set of Ultimates had my bran spankin DBA disks on their minimum size after 20,000km's. Massive groove cut in to them.

The belts being close together on the two lower tensioners really doesn't bother me. Its the length of the belt from the cam gears to the tensioners. The RB30 block is ~38mm longer... but on the other hand the sohc RB30 runs the cam belt the same way but with only a single tensioner so that also shouldn't be an issue.

I don't think its the rotor issue.. My fronts never squealed it was only the rears. The rears only squealed for a fraction of a second just before coming to a stop which was bearable. Not what I'd consider an annoyance anyway. When I think squeal I think constant brake squeal. This was a good 4years or so ago now so its possible they now make the pads more squealy. Buy Ferodo or Racebrakes pads. I run Ferodo's now. Nicer pad that lasts longer. I only got 20,000km's out of my Ultimates.

Are you blokes who are having issues with squeel running the factory anti-squeel shims?

PBR do an antisqueel glue. I've always used it and never had issues, ultimates only squealed just before you came to a stop, so bearable.

Apparently the chassis sections can be had from nissan from ~$100 a piece.

I don't believe any one has mentioned a spare pair of thongs in times of a break down (power steer pump failure, overheat, diff breakage) and that 10mile walk in your black jeans and HSV jacket. and for the ricers toolkit... A spare neon and associated tools required for figment. God forbid the neon should blow on a friday or sat night down the main cbd street.

I think I will scrap the powergrip belt mention in the rb30det guide. If the tooth isn't suitable there's no point having it there.

I've ran the BKR7E plugs for quite some time now. I usually start the car, throw on my seat belt then drive slowly off. Recently I've been having a play and decided to let it warm for ~1-2mins before driving off and the BKR7E's tend to foul a little. Its only very very slight fouling and they do clear up pretty quickly once driving. I found Autobarn was the only auto store in Adelaide that I could get the BKR7E plugs from. Motortraders/Coventrys, Sprints, Motormates, autopro etc said nope we can't get them. Repco wanted to charge me freight costs or what ever it was. Motortraders are well priced. 6 BCPR6E plugs for $18.

Yep thats right. Much more power and you may be looking at a new trans. What stage shift kit?

'Some' well only ONE that I know of has had RB26 cams work in their RB20det, but many more have started their car to have it lump over and idle badly due to a valve tapping the piston. Roy had this happen to his following rb26 cams and had to drop another motor in. However... The few stuffed motors due to the rb26 cams being fitted 'may' be due to the backyarders who fitted them. When pulling off the cam lifters should be bled again as they tend to pump up a little and when the new cam is bolted in they 'can' crack a valve on the piston sitting on tdc below. As a rule of thumb its always wise to spin the motor ~10degree's or so off TDC when bolting in the new cams to prevent such an expensive stuff up. The Rb26 runs solid followers as a result the cams are able to run a much more aggressive ramp rate. This aggressive ramp rate is not suitable for hydraulic followers. The Rb20DET cams are more aggressive than the rb20de cams. So throw a set of adj cam gears on the rb20det cams and you will see improved (over rb20de cams) power once on boost. The RB20de cams will pull up the bottom end a little due to its small inlet cam. All in all... Say no to rb20de cams. Throw a set of adj. cam gears on your std rb20det cams for an even greater power improvement. Rb26 cams... Well that depends if you want your rb20det become another statistic. In theory the solid follower cams are not suitable for the hydraulic follower heads. Its well known rule of thumb for all motors. The Rb26 -> rb20 may be an exception. Its not worth the effort really. Throw a set of adj cam gears on the stock cams and they are good enough. ----- Madaz.. That IQ test.. I got 132.. I'm certain I answered all the questions correctly but obviously not. ----- Merry Xmas all.

12k is around the mark for both front and rear end damage. At the end of the day you didn't see the car and how badly it was damaged. Next time, get a cover note slapped on it before you drive the car away from the place of purchase, it costs you nothing and lasts for 2weeks. Bit of a bugger... You'd want to hope the g/f sticks around. Well it is only a g/f after all, place the blame on her if at all possible.. Yes I'm a heartless bastard but so can women be. Wife/fiancee.. Different story. Its only a g/f. There's plenty more fish in the sea.

The rb26 cams are solid, their ramp rates are too aggressive for hydraulic lifters. So no. When using the stock plenum cams only gain a little mid range and spool the turbo a touch more. It doesn't extend the peak power rpm and they don't hold power up better. An after market plenum is what does this is it appears the stock plenum on the 3ltr restricts top rpm peak power and how well power holds after peak power is made. I would have dropped the rb26 head on the sucker.. its not too late yet. While your there, is it possible to measure the stock r32 rb25 valve spring installed height on both the inlet and exhaust?

Sounds like they think your Stagea is a VN Dunnydoor. The VN's would prematurely burn out their trans (as word has it from when they were cabs) when running around the city in overdrive as the auto would change in to it too early. ------------- Alex.. I've watched your vids on youtube and it looks/sounds as if its flaring a touch on the 2nd to third change.