Cubes

Whats Dr. Drift Charge for an initial tune? Whats he then charge for subsequent tunes? I did the sums a while back and after a couple of tunes the PFC came out ahead. BUT this was only so as to touch up a pfc the tune its ~1hrs work so ~$100 for subsequent tunes. The initial tune is ~300. The PFC does have the VERY useful knock warning dash light flash.. This is very valuable, I've dropped a tank of Mobil 98 stuff in where I swear the bloke must have stuffed up and dropped ULP in.. First boot it knocked like buggery, dash light flashed and I jumped off it. Dialed 6degree's and no more knock. Another tank went in dialed back in that 6degree's and all was good again. Oh but the Stock ecu detects knock and drops back to the low octane map you say... yes true but only if rev's are under 4000-4500rpm over that and you have NO protection. Back to back with the stock ecu and the PFC; the pfc felt smoother. Can't quite put my finger on it but it definitely felt smoother. The PFC also got rid of my occasional idle hunt issue the stock ecu had.

But how many kays has the car traveled?

I too have NFI whats going on.

Thanks Chris...

lol.

Not just one post but many. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...sult_type=posts

Depending how you drive. If your a squirt here squirt there type person it will probably last longer that your willing to put up with it before you throw on a bigger huffer. If your a crazy mofo that likes to hold third gear down then click fourth as you weave in and out of traffic (as I see some here in Adelaide do) then it won't last long at all.

The only downside of running such a low boost level is the lack of mid range torque.

Possibly the same way I do mine. Elongate the actuator holes to make the actuator adjustable. or as you say, a restrictor.

It is a touch high for 10psi but <shrugs shoulders> you get that.

One of these threads again.. Its possible for an R33 with a bit of boost, exhaust and fmic to crack 200rwkw... All though its most definitely not common. Out of many here in Adelaide I've only ever known of one that was able to do so. Good old Bugalugs here in SA. If its any constellation it was a 1995 Model and had bits and pieces from the s1 and s2. It went on to run a [email protected] with a 2.183 60ft.

My 2 x 12" thermo's were just setup badly.. Mounted directly onto the radiator so air was only flowing past ~30% of the radiators surface area. Its a must thermo's use a shroud.

My bad. It does appear the single 16" does out flow 2 x 12" fans, however the 1100cfm 16" thermo fan listed by the thread op flows less than 2 x 12" thermo's. If its a davis fan then they apparently flow up around 1600cfm. I can't find anything solid on it though. Mad082, I replaced my 12" std a/c thermofan with a single curved blade (more efficient) 14" ebay fan. Has worked well. Made a noticeable difference to the a/c when sitting in peak hour traffic on those 40+degree days. From memory the single 14" that I picked up flowed ~1400cfm.

The turbo never back spins, its impossible. Have a read of the interview with Simon from Nispro on autospeed (link above). Driving with no bov really does support what Simon states. It just feels so much more responsive.

Mad082 is suggesting the bov is being sucked open through its recirc piping that taps in to the turbo to afm pipe. So nothing to do with where the bov gets its vacuum when on boost. The bov receives its vac/boost feed via the throttle body. Its impossible what mad082 is suggesting unless his bov's spring is unbelievably light. All thats holding the bov shut when making boost is the springs pressure as the pressure on both sides is essentially 'equal'. As I said prior for the bov to lift off its seat you would want some serious vac in the recirc piping. If you have a considerable amount of vac in the recirc piping then you have issues, especially when mad082's is a fairly stock r33.

Ok a link to support my thoughts. First up Steve's Post that makes reference to an Autospeed article where a discussion is held with Nispro's Simon Gishus. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...655&st=160# And the full link here - http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1457/article.html Steve has a 180, no bov for drift = much better throttle response. I really do tend to place a little more faith in Simon Gishus rather than some general websites and especially wiki that is open to any one to have their input.

4doorsleeper, I'll dig up a link that states otherwise. When running No-bov mine and others that I've seen blow flames out the exhaust and occasionally stall. Run a recirc and its fine. The turbo's in ALL instances have spooled up quicker. From my poxy turbo to a gt35r .82. But thats in practice. But yep.. I'll dig up that link that supports my findings.

Mad082, I've actually found the complete opposite with the skylines. Never had a 180 so wouldn't know. Slow normal driving gear changes and there is 100% less lag. It feels n/a with no split second deadness then snap on boost, boost is just there it just accelerates as soon as you select that next gear. High rpm full throttle slapping gear changes, I didn't notice any difference between no bov and the recirc bov but I don't really drive in that manner so I really can't comment. Block yours off and take it for a drive and you will see exactly what I'm talking about. With the 180 maybe you are right. With the skylines, no bov (or a tight atmo bov) its always more responsive and boost builds quicker. BUT they tend to have issues with low rpm & low boost driveability. And as for the vacuum created in the plumback sucking the bov open.. If thats the case you seriously need to look at your pod/box setup as there must be a massive restriction there, or replace your bov as its stuffed.

The slide turbo's are quote a bit cheaper. They are journal but really there is nothing wrong with journal. Trust, mitsi, suby, GTR's use journal. The little old TD06-20G. Makes 250rwkw on an rb20det but has the response of a 2510. Simply awesome turbo.

The std bovs have a little bleed hole to 'bleed' a little pressure off to improve bov response time. This improves driveability. Block the hole off and the turbo spools quicker, the same as when you block the bov off completely. Watch your boost level as when I blocked the hole off boost raised by ~1psi. Run an aftermarket atmo bov - While the turbo is spooling the aftermarket bov's don't 'leak' so the turbo spools at the same rate as when you run the std bov with its bleed hole blocked off or the bov blocked off completely. BUT as I mentioned earlier the no bov option really does improve boost response when selecting that next gear or when feathering the throttle then jumping back on it.

A mate of mine with an RB30DET GT35r runs some sheepdog atmo bov. He was experiencing a strange bog when shifting between second and third. It only appeared since he wound boost up a touch and began making ~270rwkw. He blocked the bov off and it disappeared. What was happening is on the quick hard change between second and third the bov was letting go of the air in the system, the ecu thought it was still in the system dumps a heap of fuel bogs the car down and blows a flame out the exhaust. Blocked the bov off and no longer. His options are fit a recirc bov or put up with the light throttle driveability issues when running no bov.

Definitely a worry. Those with rebuilt motors will have to ensure they keep all the quench standard as opening up the quench has emissions go to shit. Thicker headgaskets.. poor emissions also.

4door_sleeper, Unfortunately that's incorrect. A bov is there for nothing more or less than emissions and driveability. The reason for turbo failures in the old days was poor turbo design, lack of water cooling and journal bearing. Most definitely nothing to do with a bov. It really is only there for emissions and to improve driveability (smoothness when off/on the throttle).

Spitfires are fine. Its just some ppl have issues some don't. Most likely an underlying problem. Either way genuine coils are just as good, just 2x the price.