Cubes

The std bovs do leak slightly as they are designed to.

Bloody Nora.. Awesome catch Darren.

Tangles.. Let Pete know I never did track down those brake rotors as the oldies moved house (1minute around the corner on the esplanade)... They must be packed away some where.

I think he's smart keeping it smallish. Low overheads.

In no way related to tangles...... but more so to Darrens post. Yes I hate it when ppls say... how ever long it takes me.. I charge 70-80 per hour. At least Shaun gives us a fixed price and thats it.

nope.. just saying what the hole is there for... The new design doesn't have the hole so it must have an internal hole to vent back past the ball or something.

Well thats sort of what I was thinking Darren. If we were to go near deep creek a few of us could shoot off to rapid bay etc?

purpose of the hole is to prevent boost trapping between the bleeder and the actuator when you jump off the throttle. With the old setup without the hole boost would have been very laggy when you change gears as the actuator holds open thinking its seeing your peak boost when really before the bleeder its still trying to build booost If that makes sense.

How many night stay are people looking at? One, two?

Deep creek conservation park... I believe they have paint balling there too.

So how does it spool?

Chances are you won't see an increase in power as when you run up on the dyno the operator places the IT sensor where the air is sucked from, if its a pod usually on the pod, if its the stock air box inside the CAI. As the POD see's a higher inlet temp from air passing through the radiator the IT sensor see's this, reports it to the dyno and the dyno pumps up the power figure to supposively 'compensate' for the given car's poor setup. Thats the way I look at it anyway Shove the IT sensor in the cai of a box and the it sensor reading will be lower so no or very little power correction will be made. I've always strongly believed shoot out mode is a load of crap for this very reason, it should be placed in front of the car in the stream of the air leaving the big arsed fan. If you run a pod the motors going to suck hot air thats passed through the rad, so its going to make less power, if it runs a good cai and box its going to make more with no adjustment to the power reading other than the temp of the air the car is being blasted with. Reflects more so the real world on road performance with the bonnet down. If that makes sense.

It doesn't... I've had it like this for almost 5years and ~150,000km's. Its actually quite loud, in the cabin its not with the windows up but passenger window down it is loud, however its very much louder on the side of the road, on par with a pod and you can hear the loud sucking noise from the bumper area rather than just everywhere.

I live down south. I have no idea how far away it is.. I thought it was a good couple hr drive. EDIT: I just googled.. its apparently 213km's west of Adelaide.

A CAI is always much better than a pod sitting in air heated by the radiator. There are real losses, especially as the weather warms up. I notice almost no difference on a hot day. Feels the same. Unsure if those with pods feel a difference as I've never ran one. ---------------- I've always ran the stock airbox, I've plumbed 2 x 45degree 100mm pvc pipe in to the stock airbox. Looks all neat and tidy. Probably could attach the stock cai to it to hide it a little more. When I first did the cai I checked the filter to see how wet it was after a long wet drive. It was almost dry, the afm was definitely dry as was all the piping and top side of the filter. The bottom of the box was still dry also. Just the filter felt ever so slightly slippery on the bottom side. I did punch it through puddles and had ppls driving in front spraying up plenty of water.

Cheapest I've seen the 044 is 170. Can't rememeber where though.

Well this has turned in to quite a functional 'discussion'.

Definitely a much easier way.

Good luck with the big start up.

If you have a multimeter check the volts leaving/entering the afm. Depending if you have a series 1 or two there should be at the very least a 12v feed and a value that reads ~0.4-0.5v with the car not running but ignition ON (not aac but on showing all dash lights). The others will be grounds/earths. So check its first getting battery voltage and then check the off state but with ignition on is around 500mv or so. Once started this value should spike up to around 1.2-1.4v You can check via the afm plug or the ecu pinout. If the afm appears fine the next step may be to check a break in the wire some where, so that means checking it at the ecu to ensure its receiving the value. Also.. Do check for any green goop (corrosion) on the afm plug connections. If its not the afm... It may very well be a fuel pump or some thing. Let the tracing begin. Multimeters are excellent tools. Grab a cheapy and do some googling on how to use the sucker.

Check your AFM. With a stuffed afm or break in the afm wire the car will start as the use dials in fuel based on its injector ms cranking time table. So there's enough fuel to get it started then the afm takes over so the ecu is able to push in the right amount of fuel based on the afm output. I had a similiar issue did exactly the same as you describe except mine 'sometimes' would drive ok then all of a sudden cut. My problem was a stuffed afm wire due to previous tampering when fitting up an safc.

grigor, Did you plug up the std bovs bleed hole?

The top water feed? You mean the side water feed/return? The top feed should be oil. The side water feed/return closest to the block can be a pain in the arse as the inside washer falls down easily. I have in the past used a little petroleum jelly to hold it in place while I get the thread to take as it can some times be slightly off and quite stress full.

lol 8hrs.. I've used my old mans pit in the past so its easy to get to all the bits..

I ran 12.5psi through mine with the stock ic. Car was quite a good little package back then, went quite well.