Cubes

Top stuff. I will look in to it.

No idea.. Chances are all will be expensive. I'd try motor traders as a start. Failing that if you want cheap your going to have to buy interstate/online.

Excellent salad..

Get on the phone. Almost everyone deals with bosch. Motor traders, sprints, motor mates.

I bought my 14" thermo from atracing on ebay. From memory it was ~$80. The fan wasn't a straight blade it was a curved blade. Looks identical to this one. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HIGH-PERFORMANCE-14...1QQcmdZViewItem What ever you get be sure its a curved blade fan, they push a lot more air and they are quiet. Those justjap alloy rads are a bargain.

Martin... What sort of power was it putting out on the day? I gather it wouldn't have been all out max power as it would be a damn handfull.

Does the gtr bov bolt up with no mods or? I recently blocked the std bov's bleed hole and boost went up a psi. GTS4Newbie, Give this a shot.. Block your bov off. Run no bov. Take it for a drive and experience your turbo doing the exact opposite as to what you suggest. The car really does get up and go much quicker after a gear change when running no bov. My own thoughts are that yes there is a pressure spike but not having the bov release the pressure essentially prevents the lag that you experience with a bov when the turbo has to spin up and fill the ic piping and fmic again. With no bov the majority of the air is still there so the turbo quickly spins up a little and is up on boost quicker. This is what I experienced. Give it a shot. I did however experience a horrible jerky driveability issue when changing gears at part throttle and low rev's. Changing up at 3500rpm or so and driveability was fine. I also had the odd stall under certain circumstances but nothing I couldn't work around. The results with the blocked off bov were that good that I'm tempted to put up with the jerkyness when changing up at 7psi or so with part throttle at 2000rpm. It really did feel like it was instantly on boost when grabbing the next gear.

Andrew, My A/C also used to cut out. I replaced the stock condenser fan with an aftermarket 14" fan that blows a hell of a lot more air. And the best part.. No more a/c cutting out.

Cruise and camp down to Stansbury? A good few hour easy drive and cheap to camp out at the local caravan park. I did this with a few friends, stayed a couple of days and watched the fireworks from Stansbury in Adelaide for new years a good 5-6years ago. It is a long drive and many things could go wrong if people be silly so it may not be such a good idea.

lol awesome Martin... Effortless.

The dyno runs are done in 4th, the car ran 18" wheels 235's I forget the profile. Regarding the valve springs.. Dialing in 18-19psi the lifters would pump up and the power curve drop off sharply. Quite scary. :S

Rip the coil cover at night and let us know if they still flash. The flashes are quite bright if you give it a quick rev from idle.

DIY is easy if you have bought a complete pumpkin. If its the center; I've enquired and every one I've called so far want around $300-$800 as they 'have' to replace bearings and said they won't do it otherwise. Load of crap.. To simply throw on a crown wheel and possibly adjust clearances.. Std bearings are fine.

The stock guage is measured in mmhg x 100 so: 800mmhg is 15.47psi 700mmhg is 13.54psi <<< Max guage value 600mmhg is 11.6psi 350mmhg is 6.77psi

The car just had a full exhaust, fmic and had boost wound up on the dyno. AFR's showed they were leaning out so a new fuel pump went in. It was then advanced 2 degree's and wasn't pinging on the dyno even though temps were 30degree's. On the stock guage.. Mine was a little out, with the needle almost ready to topple over the +7 top line that was 15psi. Have a look at the std guage it tells you the units of measurement used. +7 is supposed to be around 13.5psi from memory. As I said mine was out a little.

Gary, I've double checked the rpm vs speed and it appears you multiply the speed by 40.189 to get the correct rpm. The rev cut was set to 7000rpm and the dyno pull was stopped just before at 6800rpm. So on 8psi peak power shifted from ~5600rpm to almost 6500rpm. When its making 270rwkw boost does appear to be coming on a little soft as its running a basic little bleeder setup so the boost curve elbow is round so to speak. Power holds until 'almost' 6900rpm then it begins to drop off, valve springs are playing up so it shall be interesting how it all pans out.

They are R32/R33 Series 1 coil packs. Do remove the coil cover, secure your ignitor, get the car warm and at night check if you can see a lightning show. Its a sure method to determine if your coils are on their way out. Mine still arc out even though there's no noticeable missing.

Yep almost done.. exam tomorrow and Thursday then its all over for good.. maybe.. I'm considering a post grad course, that depends on the other half and how she goes with work. Lol yes it was not intentional.. lol, I just didn't read the post well.

Yep 12psi is pretty boaring through the rb20's. I pushed mine to 1bar without issues for a few years before the new motor was dropped in. Old motor was 100% still fine as was the turbo when it came out.

lol... and the sad part is its not intentionally. lmao Stressful time of year.. uni exams etc so I'm off with the fairies a little.

Disco, Bl4ck32 runs a series 2 cas on his rb30det. It had to be slightly modified to fit up, not sure exactly what modifications were made. That would suggest the output is the same as the early models.

I used a light smear of silicon as I didn't get a gasket with my elbow.

Kyles... He does exhaust manifolds not inlet manifolds??

It essentially runs the same design int wastegate. Yes a bigger turbine housing.

Best post in your state section.