Cubes

Just take the turbo off. Its 'only' 4 nuts and a couple of coolant lines. Adds another 30minutes on to the job IF you have the right tools. At least then you can get in and clean up both surfaces correctly. Its also difficult to torque up the exh manifold nuts correctly with the turbo on. Do use a torque wrench unless you want to be replacing another gasket + studs later down the track. Their torque values are up surprisingly loose.

lol... Both!! I'm soon to strip it down and see if rust has developed in the bores after years of sitting around. I'll let you know lol.

Hey Andew, Going by the date that was the run done on the 2005 dyno day late last year. Not sure what made me think it was a 3.5.. maybe the noise, it did sound awesome as Shaun gave it that blip. I'll check out stocky's.

Have you found some one that sells the hks cast mani for a reasonable price? I remember when they used to go for 400-600 and then the price began to rise to around 800 then 1000 and then last I saw people were asking close to 1.2k for them. :S The HKS cast mani could do with some smoothing out as it is cast after all. When you get a hks mani in your hands and compare it to the std manifold there's simply no way the std item could flow as well as the hks item. Completely different design, smooth merges at the collector etc.

bbe, Use the correct means of communication to receive your turbo. This is where you made the mistake last time, don't make the same mistake twice. Post as you have and no wonder slide hasn't put you on his priority list. This thread is a little long in the tooth. Enough.

Ask Roy what happens when you don't run a heat shield and a heater hose develops a small pin prick hole spraying a fine mist of coolant/glycol. Coolant/glycol just happens to be flammable when sprayed in a fine mist.

That ebay looking type exh manifold... There's around 20rwkw gain once up over 300rwkw. A couple of track days and it cracked, but it was an ebay type.. UAS may have them made better, who knows. I don't.

If it pulls nicely to 6000-7000rpm then don't touch it. I'm assuming thats one of the reasons you went the dohc head? The ability to rev it?

If its dropping off to 12 well... Its a manual boost controller. You will need an ebc for it to hold boost. Mine always dropped but to around 12.5psi. I modified the actuator and it held whatever boost I adjusted it to.

Where does it feel on the road that power begins to lay off?

Nice How much for the rebuild?

I hope Andrew doesn't mind but I've attached a comparison of his and AM's. Andrews at the time of the dyno run was running 260dur Poncams, ~19psi, 3.5" exhaust, ebc, stock exh mani and plenum. AM's stock rb25de cams and 2 3/4" exhaust, stock exh mani and aftermarket plenum and less boost ~17psi with no ebc and a little valve float starting to develop (lump curve) The poncams bring boost on earlier and really pump up that mid range, not to mention its running more boost so that too pumps up the mid. It shall be interesting what happens to AM's once boost is pushed up, possibly cams and an ebc to hold that gate shut until the very last ms. Going by what it looked like when on lower boost levels and slowly raising it up the graph shape stayed the same from around 90-95km/h but the whole thing simply moves up.

Yes the ports and runners are slightly larger on the R33 RB25DET. The plenum looks pretty much the same as does the t/b. The R33 head will always be a better starting point and obviously the RB26 better again.

lol No the rb20det turbo is off it has been running a vg30det turbo for some time. The VG30 is better but still lacks. These turbo's are cheap, but I really want to throw on an int. gate gt30 .82. and ram as much boost as I can (20 odd) in to it. A gt35r would be nice but is a tad too laggy on the 3ltrs especially when they need a plenum to make them rev hard. (as we recently found out on a mates car) BUT... I really am getting tired of driving a car that has a decent motor but crap turbo on it so it very well may see a vg30 max oversize slide turbo thrown on the side. See how things go.

The plugs u want are BCPR6E v-groove and 0.8mm pregapped. Not every one keeps them.. Coventrys/Motortraders do. They are around $2.80 each.

So are you suggesting we take the boost reading from the turbo's nipple and set boost to 12psi from there NOT the plenum as every one else does?

Its not actually that bad if you run an fmic. My small bar/plate fmic (bar and plates known for being restrictive) has a pressure drop of 1.5psi at 580hp worth of air. So unless your running on the stock IC worry not. Years back Tim from RPM (Where used to take my car when I first got it) had an article in Zoom showing the pressure drop caused by the stock IC. It was measured up to ~7psi from memory on 11psi, at the same boost level 11psi the pressure drop was next to nothing. Its not the boost that kills the turbo's anyway.. Tuning, detonation, high EGT's and a little bit of bad luck is what throws the wheel in to your (or lack of) cat.

Sounds a little like this one done here in Adelaide by Allen engineering. http://users.tpg.com.au/cobra30/twincam.htm Apart from what it says on paper whats most important is 'HOW' it feels to drive. Its a sports car afterall, not a family wagon with a big v8 dumped in it.

They don't place a nipple on the comp cover for the reason your suggesting. Unless your talking stock turbo then running 20psi at the turbo isn't an issue providing the motor is tuned to run 15psi and all is well. At least you achieve a stable boost curve that doesn't tail off as airflow increases (as your ic restriction example would suggest) Its only my view, I care less how much the turbo is pushing out as long as boost holds and makes power.

lol... Have you just sat and stared at it, put it away, pulled it out again and started again possibly repeating the process multiple times...

RE: The actuator boost signal The ideal place is to always receive the boost signal from the plenum. But this is not really optimal as it requires a long run from the plenum to the actuator. Only possible when using an EBC. So... Just do what Nissan did with the R33. Run it from the IC pipe directly before the cross over pipe. Close enough is good enough.

Well let me know if u want to borrow them, they are sitting here with spider webs over them.

Your right Gary the GT35r really is a not so good match for the RB30DET if it isn't able to rev. It comes back to the old its expensive once you get over 450bhp. So the perfect stock rb30 with stock in/exh. manifold setup would be to simply throw a VG30/R34 GCG highflow on it, make 260rwkw odd and be happy knowing that if you want much more its going to cost you considerably more than it would to do the same to an rb25 as you need that inlet manifold. So... It sounds like you've kind of agreed with me.. lol

Not sure if you got the gist of my last post.. But anyway... Both day temps were low 20's. The only variables as I mentioned above and a few posts back were: Slightly lower boost Ign timing wasn't adjusted after the plenum went on. As I said above.. Its all about the complete package, the gearing simply isn't suited to a motor that doesn't rev.

I have a set of rb20 covers u could borrow. Not sure if they are interchangeable... I would assume so. Post a pic of yours. Are you powder coating?