Cubes

Can still be done Troy! Head down to the wreckers and invest a hundred or two in a good second hand rb30. I bought my bottom end that came out of a running car that was still in great condition (had been arse ended) for $150.

Ash.. unsure if you read the whole post in the dyno thread but a peak of 256rwkw was seen on 15psi. A little more boost and and tidying up of afr's and ign saw 270rwkw. And no adj. cam gears. Forget the exh. manifold. The plenum is what definitely appears to open up the top end. Then as Shaun said you hit 300-330rwkw on the stock exh. manifold and you then 'need' to go aftermarket.

A little update on AM-Performances GTS4 RB30DET. Made 270rwkw. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2671762 Needs valve springs done. The plenum has widened up the power band noticeably even on 8psi where it made a lowly 182-188rwkw.

I don't believe a GT3071r will make 290rwkw as on paper its only capable of ~450hp. Which is... ~260rwkw give or take a little.

I run an Exide Evolution 480cc http://www.exide.com.au/products/index.php The first battery I had was a dud from the beginning, it used to go flat within 30minutes of leaving the radio on. Overnight even if not started for a few days it was fine. I replaced earths etc and it still played up. On the autoshops battery tester it came up as ok BUT i saw the cc reading and it was down to 400cc. 1year later it began bubbling and leaking. I had it replaced, the bloke at exide said the battery must of been dropped or overcharged. Both of which had never happened in my hands, the pfc was reading a perfect 14.2v when cold and 13.8v when warm. Never once was the alt overcharging. Dropped the new battery in and its been perfect since. Almost been another year. I think mine was just a dud from factory.

I'm posting for: FOOLBOOST's RB30DET Motor: Standard fresh RB30E R32 RB25DE untouched standard head (valve springs, cams etc) 1.5mm Cometic Headgasket ~7.8:1 static comp ratio Inlet: Aftermarket Plenum Sard 800cc Twin Sprays FMIC Hotside: Standard Exhaust Manifold GT35R .82 Tial Wastegate Bleed Valve Am-Performance Ext Wastegate adaptor/spacer AM-Performance Dump/Front pipe 2 3/4" Cat Back 270rwkw @ ~6200rpm and power holding well until 7000rpm. The highest we saw was 280 something rwkw but it was floating quite badly. settled on 270rwkw with what I think was still 'some' signs of ever so slight float The second attached dyno sheet is a before/after fitting up a plenum without touching the ign timing only resetting afr's back to 12:1. Prior boost was hitting 9 point something psi then tailing to 8psi, after the plenum it held a solid 8psi and appears to have lost a touch of mid range, this could be due to slightly less boost and the lack of fiddling with ign timing. None the less power has shifted up the curve rather nicely which is what we want out of the rb30 as to get some speed in any gear. No point it feeling like a diesel. 1bar saw power touch 265rwkw. Gains after that were minimal due to soft valve springs. MORE BOOST!

lol your lucky.. I bought a new battery, bloke asked me what side i want the positive I said top right. Got home, it was going dark, couldn't see too well hooked battery up. Upon touching the last terminal i saw a big spark and a big crack noise from the fuse box. Blown powerfc, blew multiple cheap fuses under the dash and an expensive $35 75amp fuse in the fuse box. It was a cheap batter so it had the + and - pressed in to the top plastic, so not easy to see at night.

A cam belt is a cam belt. As mentioned.. look at the tensioners.

Lucky.. Not sure if you can get any luckier having that cam belt hold together. There's nothing to really line up. Just bolt the cams and cam gears on and thats it. Your tensioners.. You had them replaced? Were they new or did you just have the beaings replaced within the shell?

No probs small knob. and so was that.

Replace cap, remove snout and re-goo. I originally replaced the cap, no difference, re-goo'd the filler neck and its all good.

Well its a no go. I would have preferred a general forsale section the way it is now but have the ability to filter for states. Do away with all these little wa and qld f/s sections that I often forget to check yet may have good deals sitting in them. Its a load of crap really, they don't need a special f/s section because they are 'so far away'. I recently sold an item to a bloke in W/A. The postage cost was the same apart from it taking 1 day longer than the usual.

Ahh cool.. so I can simply trim off the nice little SAU logo. I'm not a big sticker person so just something nice and small so others can identify another sau'er. Had a dude looking at me in a 33 as he drove past the other day, probably thinking.. is he sau.

Come to think of it isn't there a panel available from justjap? http://www.justjap.com/parts_ngauges.htm Might drop them an email asking if it fits 2 1/16" guages.

That depends if the rb25 turbo is a highflows bush type. oil requirements only need to be changed if the turbo your bolting on isn't ball bearing. i.e journal bearing/bush

Nice so they fit just right. I might see if I can remove the outer and have them set in behind with a smooth fibreglass panel. Similiar to the GTR panel. Will these guages fit in the gtr panel?

Its interesting Grim32's RB25 runs a 10.5:1 static comp yet it still makes less off boost power than both Abobobs and BassJunky's that also run a higher 4.11:1 diff ratio. Most likely just dyno differences. I wonder if the php script alters makes adjustments for the cars final diff ratio. I should plug in freebaggins old GT3040 .63 int gate vlt housing setup with cams etc..

Whats the small url look like? This? http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s...iaredcomql4.gif and the large url? Whats the height of it? http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=saulogos2bi5.jpg If I grab the large url I can then chop off the small SAU logo and slap it on.

oh they are.. thats fine. How do they sit? The pic makes them look as if they are a touch too big but that may just be the lighting or lack of?

Some of the VLT boys who use their car on the track opt for the 1.06 gt35r rear as they too say the .82 comes on too hard.

No one that I know of has really played with a .63 GT35r. But given the turbine maps on garretts web site the gt35r .63 flows roughly the same on the exhaust side as the gt30 .82. The GT30 .82 I know can make 330rwkw odd on a built motor 9:1 on decent fuel, cams, plenum etc; made 580hp on the engine dyno. So quite possible.

lol.. Dig up a 1yr old thread. Yes the R30 resistor pack works. I've been running it since the beginning of this year.

lol not sure what I was thinking, clearly didn't look at my pics properly.

If lights are going very dim then your alt isn't up to the task and should be replaced. With everything on place a multimeter over your battery terminals and check the volts. It should be no lower than 13.2v preferably it should hold 13.8v.

Its the 71mm comp wheel so the .82 really isn't needed as its never going to make much over an honest 260rwkw (450fwhp). Thats around the GCG ball park. The .63 will be fine. Sort out fueling issue, throw a set of adj cam gears on it and move power around to where you want it.