Cubes

When the idlers sieze they generally take the stud with it.

Mobil 1 - 5w50 Motul 300v Chrono - 10w40 Don't forget the Motul 8100 5w40, that too is another good oil.

You don't need to touch the tail shaft if you don't touch the gearbox. If you run the rb25 gearbox then you will need to have the tail shaft modified, obviously.

Adriano, The R34 I haven't heard much about, I believe one person has done it but I don't remember them mentioning any problems they experienced. What oil/water galley issues are there with the R34 head? Headbolts what size are they?

Nothing wrong with 10w40 but the only way you will be getting that is via the semi-synthetic turbolight or the motul 300v. The 10w40 isn't available in motul 8100. 300V with a 10k change is the way to go if you can bring your self to do it. Just remember you need 5litres.

Stock guage. Mine sits on the + sign and thats smack on 11psi according to a dyno's map sensor. Smack on the +7 line is 14psi and slightly over is 1bar.

lol.. I didn't realise you tried the adjacent pin.. Knowing that I've grown some balls to give this a shot. Does the IAT sensor output the same voltage as the water temp sensor? I remember after that you replaced your water temp sensor? Maybe it was buggered before? Maybe the only way to view the output IAT is datalogging?

Cruiseliner has been hanging in the rb30 thread lately. I believe he's going to 'practice' tuning a forklift motor before he attempts the 2.7ltr.

Stick to the Motul Turbolight, Motul 8100 5w40 or Mobil 1 5w50. Shop around (Sprint Autoparts, Motor Mates, Autobarn, Repco, Autopro) as one of them usually have a special on. More often than not you will be able to find Mobil 1 5w50 at around $50 on special some where. Motormates currently have it for $54 - your 5% discount for becoming a member (free to do so) and its a damn good oil for the price. Mobil is a true PAO synthetic oil with added esters. Contains good levels of detergent and anti wear addatives. Motormates also do the Purolator oil filters.

There's quite a few oils available here in Adelaide Apart from the usual there's: ELF Synthetic Nulon Synthetic :S Fuchs (makers of Sikoline) Might have to look in to the Sikoline stuff and see what its worth. I really only want to pay $50 for 5ltrs, so really what ever fits the bill. At the moment its Motul 8100 5w40 which is nice but I would prefer an oil with a little higher HTHS. I'm almost tempted to see how the Mobil 1 15w50 runs as the running-in oil was fine (20w50) and I don't see temps below 10degree's so it should be fine. http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lub...il_1_15W-50.asp http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...60_B1968_05.pdf

Do remember the 7.5w30 is decided upon for power levels and economy reasons. When upping the power one really should also improve the film strength, higher visc and synth oils do this. HTHS

Mines been fine, check the spring hasn't caught on the bur some times created by the small drilled relief hole in the side of the boost controller. I had to remove the bur in order for my boost controller to adjust correctly. If the ball isn't seated correctly it won't make higher boost levels, it will be lazy and chances are will only hold near stock boost levels. If the spring is caught on the bur preventing ball travel then this may cause what you are experiencing.

I've shopped around a bit, most of the aircon blokes are a little lazy. "You get the parts and I'll do it otherwise I'll have to charge you $70+ per hour to track the parts down." One place I know of that are familiar with imports (He used to own an R33 GTST) is a place down on south road across the road from repco, its on the western side of south road, I believe the name is something like Ragazza's Auto electrical.

Did you check the link? I find it interesting the commonly used visc is quite thick for such cold conditions where people are carking it left right and centre from their <30degree summer heat waves. lol

Yes I think Paul's experience has scared a few of us including myself. Its interestering how pauls' r33 only damaged the actual track, I wouldn't have thought the small voltage received from the IAT sensor would have been able to do such damage to a simple track. There is no doubt the RB20 and even RB25 PFC's have the a track running around the pcb from the IAT pin 57. Its also interesting to note that the ONLY ecu that uses pin 57 is the rb26 ecu, it may be very well possible the rb20 and 25 ecu's are actually based on the rb26 to cut on individual production costs. Simply tweak them a little to suite the application. I will be looking in to this more. Time to pull the pfc out again and take some more pictures so I can see what pins are connected.

I recently bought my self a little fibreglass kit. Time to learn.

I would slap the intercooler on now any chance you can pick up a cheapo nismo fpr by then? 13psi is a fair wack and may impeed tuning as the stock ic will heat soak very quickly. What has Shaun said he's going to charge?

You don't necessarily need to block the holes, why not box off the intercooler to the radaitor?

I stumbled apon an interesting thread. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/showthread.php?t=32925

Mine occasionally drops a cylinder on cold start then smooths out, it also tends to drop a cylinder after a high rev and has recently started to sound like an ignition breakdown. I've always assumed its the lifters pumping up but the cold start cylinder drop out has me a little confused. There's no tapping and what not so its not the lifter bleeding down. Any of the above sound similiar? You can borrow mine for an hour or so if you wish... The other side of town for you though I believe?

Hey Buddy, How did you go with the tune on Wednesday? I won't be cruising, will be up at the Nannas on the other side of town for tea. Threw new tyres on the car and they have made a massive difference to traction, I'm able to get most of second down now and it actually feels damn fast.

Yes it would be expensive as the rb's are intereference motors. While your replacing the tensioners/idlers grab new studs for them from nissan for $2. Well worth while as the studs have been known to let go. Also.. the idlers are stupidly priced, use 2 tensioners. The tensioners are locking so there's no problems there. All the RB tensioners are the same (rb30,20,25,26) holden are slightly cheaper BUT they only run one bearing inside the shell compared to nissan that run 2 side by side in the shell. Thats holden for you. or head down to CBC and have them match a bearing up, from memory the bearings are $30.

I've done this, works well.

Shaun, What value is under the cranking ms for 80degree's? I have hot cranking issues if its any lower than ~8-9 where I must sit around and wait until coolant temps have dropped a little so that it begins scaling the prior degree value. I doubt its flooding as I have wound mine right up and it never floods as such, chances are its not getting enough fuel from what you are saying.

I have never seen the german castrol on shelves in Adelaide. As usual we get the crap.