Cubes

Does the e6x support 6 coils? If it runs them in batch mode the rb coils will not last long at high rpm. So not recommended.

GTR rods are the same length as the GTST rods, the difference in engine size is the crank throw.

Is it really blowing that much smoke? If its I see in the headlights of a car behind a hase of smoke that one could consider a cloud. On the dyno and my other half strapping it past from the side of the road there is zero smoke. How long has it been since your tuner calibrated his o2 sensor?

It would also be good to know what failed so suggestions can be made to avoid furthur failures.

I've had a heap of the scratchies... No luck. One day when I have time and need to fill up I might throw $5 in at a time, walk in pay, walk back out another $5 and on it goes until the $70 fill cost. 14 scratchies and still probably won't win.

Here we go again.. Getting all personal.. ax53b70p25, you are one hot headed individual. Don't drive to the limit on the street. Thats plain stupidity. I will take you back to the beginning, I believe you have lost track of the discussion. First up... GTSD1 You replied 1. Skylines run coil overs from factory. 2. You are referring to suspension springs/shocks tuned for circuit racing. 3. How the frig is that related to GTSTD1's origional comment??? Clearly you have missunderstood GTSTD1's post, read it again and understand. Now I replied.. Now if thats not clear enough for you I don't know what is.

Buy from nengun, one would be silly not to. The RB25 pfc is in stock and will be at your door within 10days after payment is cleared, if you deposit in to their aus bank account that will be 1-2days. So just under a fortnight. Which isn't so bad. Your situation is considerably different to one with an r32/r33/r34 simply dropping an aftermarket ecu; The Haltec, microtech or wolf is going to cost another ~$500 on top just for the ecu. Unsure exactly what is required to get a haltec going with regards to loom requirements and extra purchases. At the end of the day you cannot go past the powerfc for its price. A haltec with similiar inj. and coil outputs with closed loop idle control is ~2k+. Does the Haltec come with knock sensor, my self personally I wouldn't own an ecu that doesn't. From a quick search it appears the price of the ecu's are: Microtech LTX12 - $1495 + X4/X6 Ignition Modules - $150 Wolf3d plugin - $1395 PowerFC & H/C plugin - $921 + postage Haltech E11v2 - $2350 (Do they have 6 coil drivers?) Quickly, I wasn't able to find any info on it. 6 coil drivers for the rb's is required for reliability. Microtech and wolf have it. I don't understand your problem with sensors not running the pfc. The PFC is nothing special, no fancy sensors, no fancy cold idle stepper motor control. The Skylines are rather basic in this respect. See the R32/R33 pin out, rather basic, nothing fancy there... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=44736

A blind man could tune the PFC... Unless your making more than 2-3x the power all tuning can be done via the hand controller, no laptop software is required. Here in Adelaide there are 6 tuners that have or have access to the datalogit software should they be required to extend the map reference or tweak the airflow curve due to unstreetable rwd power levels. Microtech have been saying they are developing a closed loop system for the last couple of years that I know of. The PFC runs the car damn well, 6 injector outputs, 6 coil drivers, closed loop awesome interpolation between cells, cold starts, warm starts, idle and a/c idle all perfectly. Running my rb30 prior to the tune was returning around 420-430km's per tank fo juice, after the tune it picked up around 50km's so damn close to 500km's per tank all on local 60km/h roads. Show me an aftermarket ecu that is able to offer 6 inj. outputs, 6 coil drivers, at least 20x20 table with awesome interpolation, and closed loop mode WITH hand controller for 1k. And the best thing.. Drop in and drive to the tuner, if your really tight ask him to throw it on the dyno for 1hr and do a wot tune only ($110 odd), the base map works well and will return reasonable fuel economy. But once again, it really depends on what your tuners are comfortable with. If they deal with a lot of skylines they will know the powerfc like the back of their hand. I am not so sure about other states but here in Adelaide we have an awesome selection of tuning work shops. From Willall Racing (I'm sure your familiar with Keir Wilson), Tilbrooks, Morpowa, Boostworxs, Graham West, RPM all of which are able to throw the laptop on the pfc. No doubt its the same in the larger states.

Oh yes.. lol Not sure what i was thinking.

Do remember this is a Stagea 4wd so the sump adaptor plate will throw 20mm or what ever it is on to the block and shift everything up slightly, so if anything the top of the shroud will be an issue, not the bottom like us rwd ppls where we lower the motor, essentially cruiseliner will be raising the motor, but as he runs the rb26 plenum this create any bonnet fouling issues.

Very interesting.. Maybe they had no idea what de or det meant.

It would most definitely have to run on the stock ecu and something that resembles the stock ecu. Basically stock with maybe exhaust and ic would be ok but the closer to stock it is the better.

Getting the RB25det in to an R32 legally is easy. Run the R33 front brakes. Be sure its running on the stock ecu, stock airbox, stock exhaust and IC and there won't be a problem. The more mods you do for the initial inspection the harder it is to pass. i.e exhaust, front mount etc. Its been done many times before.

Looks interesting, so much too look at... A set of deep dish looking rims would set it off.

Yer I saw you said the reasonable height Grim... I was simply pointing out with way too many words that in this case the majority spoil it for the minority. Legal ride height basically looks stock, which does suck but the suspension travel for public roads is needed. Thats interesting with regards to making the car look lowered; this simply comes down to lack of education within the police force, what can we do, our hands are tied. Maybe use the money derived from these hoon fines to educate the police in modifications as to allow them to make a better decision if a car indeed should go to regency or not. Would save regency time, as a result money.

BS.... Suspension tuned for circuit racing is in no way safer on australian public roads. Its simply too hard/not forgiving enough.

Grim, the problem is the majority of lowered skylines and especially silvia/180sx's are not running an australian designed high performance suspension. They run rock hard jap coil overs, lower the car stupidly that reduces its suspension travel dangerously and then wonder why they get picked on. These cars stand out like dogs balls, driving on what appears to be a smooth road you can see their car bouncing over every tinny little bump. Sure it may feel like it handles good.... until you hit a bump mid corner or required to jam the brake on hard and hitting a small bump causing the tyre to lift from the road and bang. Whiteline suspension is much nicer than many would think, I've driven an R32 with whiteline springs shocks and to be honest, just cruising it feels as if its stock suspension, decide to push it a little and it feels awesome as it soaks up mid corner bumps with no body roll. If only there was a registration that allowed us to modify our cars to suit track work yet still have some limitations so we could use it on the street without too many drama's.

I think the tensioner bolt snapping is more so related to the stud not being replaced and overtightened. So.. ensure the $2 stud is replaced and torqued up to its correct settings. Same goes for the harmonic balancer, use the old bolt but be sure to lock tight it and torque it up correctly.

I don't think the microtech is a viable option for the street. They don't run closed loop mode and are known for not returning the best fuel economy. Stick with either the wolf3d v4plus or powerfc and you can't go wrong. The powerfc doesn't come with the laptop software but in all honesty, its not really needed until you start doing motor swaps or really big turbo's. From nengun the rb25 powerfc can be at your door in 10days after payment has cleared, payment clearing takes a day or two, the powerfc comes with a hand controller. Have you priced the wolf3d v4plus or is the rb plugin a plus version standard, their web site isn't all that clear on this matter. The wolf3d just for the ecu is from memory around $1400 odd

To remove the harmonic balancer you will need to buy a cheapo $19 balancer puller from supercrap/motor mates etc. It comes off easily. To put it back on simply push it on by hand a little, place the bolt in and screw the bolt back in, as it does it pulls the balancer back on. Cheaper aftermarket cam belts can be had for around $40 but the Nissan belts come with white markings on them so you can line up all the points easily. Definitely worth while as you don't want to throw the cam timing out a tooth or two. I have a 33 workshop manual.

Nothing to do with the cam gears it will be the cam belt tensioner/idlers. You'd know about it if the cam bearings went. You have a couple of options. Press off the external ring and buy a bearing suitable from CBC for around $30, so $60 in total for bearings for the idler and tensioner + what some one charges to press off and on. OR... Head to holdens and pick up two vl rb30e tensioners for $80 each. So $160 in total + labour pulling the radiator out, harmonic balancer cam belt covers then replacing cam belt ($90 from nissan) if it hasn't been done already, if replacing cam belt its wise to do the water pump ($80 for a good quality aftermarket waterpump). oh and + coolant another $30 odd possibly a/c pwr and alt belts if required. So just there thats $360 in parts. + labour that should take no more than 2 hours. Unsure what mechanics charge today. Lets say worse case $100 p/h so you could be up for close to $600 for a major service. IF you decide to buy an idler instead of the tensioner just the idler is around $280 from memory, or was it $180.. Most likely $180.. Stupidly priced. Grab a tensioner as they are a locking tensioner so essentially an adjustable idler.

Go too lean and you can burn exhaust valves. I wouldn't worry too much, play on the safe side, be sure you have a good wideband thats reading correctly your other/better half driving (so you have some one to blame if things turn sour eheh) and your laughing. Will you really want to drop the 2.7ltr back in after running around with the 3ltr?

Please do simply run the balancer that is designed for the car, not the motor. All the balancers are interchangable so use what you origionally started off with.

Cruiseliner, You have to use the balancer suited to the car its going in. For example, I run my rb20det item, others may use their r33 item or rb26 item. Use what ever came on your car so you can use your pwr steer and a/c. An uncles VL cab did over 1mil on the stock bottom end, he did 3 sohc heads that I know of maybe more. He ran penrite gas oil, changed every 10k. Suprisingly when the motor went it wasn't the bearings it was a gudgen pin. Cabs cant be compared but yer.. its interesting to note

Its quite possible your bro has been seen hooning around a little or if he's younger chances are a young male with testosterone is going to 'use' a performance car. Police do remember cars and no doubt they place notes against ones number plate / registered owner of the vehicle as to how they drive or any incidents reported. It comes down to drive any performance or performance 'looking' car and you will be harassed ESPECIALLY if you are young. I was with all my previous cars, I haven't with the Skyline but maybe its because I have a clean record, a little older, it looks stock and I don't fly around.