Cubes

If what you are saying is true then the fan would have been hammering the snorkle with clean air that is not 55degree's. The only other explaination is that the room really was 55degree's but he had the AT sensor located in the fridge or outside. I've never had a dyno run where the IT and AT readings are much different, the interesting thing is the dyno I run on is situated at the back of a workshop that gets no fresh air. Its actually pretty badly setup with regards to the lack of fresh air as after a tune my eyes sting for ages.

Using the rb20 head is a waste of time, they run really small valves, small ports and the combustion chamber is the incorrect size.

Yer sorry frogstomp, the green block distracted me from your post.. yes the R30 resistor packs work with the low imp injectors fine. I'm running a set of gtr injectors and an r30 resistor pack on my rb30det in the R32.

I note in your sig... 350rwhp on 16psi.. any more power and its a waste. As your not after more would you consider dropping to the GT30r? Or do you think it would pose greater traction problems?

With the rb30det on the rb20det std ecu I couldn't see a rich and retard until the friggin thing pinged.. It would ping, go slightly rich, drop 10degree's from ign. timing then recover, power would start to climb than BANG fuel cut. Easiest way is to throw it on the dyno for a power run, give you an indication of afr's and start from there. Cheap as chips.

The car wasn't running. The 0.49-0.50v is the default for the z32, the stock afm had a lower reading again. Unsure why this is, its always been like it. I think from memory the std afm used to read 0.29v or something with the car off. On idle its around 1-1.1v. The O2-1 sensor reading 3.88v, it always does that when the sensor is cold, its a bran new genuine o2 sensor, from a stone cold start and drive without any warmup (30secs idling) the o2 sensor on cruise starts working as early as 1km down the road. Its up to 75-80 degree's within 2km's depending how cold, stone cold mornings its around 75 otherwise 83 where it sits solid. The boost control kit reading 0.00-0.01v, it flicks, there's no boost controller kit.. again, its always been like it.

Here it is sir. I have a sneaky suspicion the rb20det pfc is actually an rb25det pfc modified.

Sorry I didn't mean the same load as when the boost was up, I dropped boost as with the higher boost level I can't get the power down in first, second even third tends to spin up a little when the diff decides its going to open wheel a tad causing less traction on the other so they both eventually go. But yes the peak lower boost voltage 3rd and 4th appeared to be the same, first was a tad less than second but still spun slightly, second hooked up completely and was still tad less than third. Which was smack on 4v on the Z32. When I say a tad i mean 3.95v vs 4v.

So you really get exactly the same load, must be an sr thing? I had a fiddle today, dropped boost right back to 7psi, first and second gear saw less load, third and fourth saw the same, I am unable to really wind fourth out as thats past the speed limit but comparing similiar rpm saw almost the same load... My third is little due to the lack of rpm 5500rpm max until valve springs are sorted. which fingers crossed is next week.

No probs small knob.

Thats quite interesting... I don't hit my peak voltage until third gear, granted first and second are wheelspin.

I've ran castrol 5w30 in the past, I found the motor used a little of it over the 5k period. The usual motul 8100 5w40 it doesn't use a drop. I've also ran castrol 10w60 (oil pressure was simply too high) and Mobil 1 5w50 they too didn't use a drop.

I don't believe there are any. Paul tried to make it pick up an air intake sensor but fried his PFC.

wow 9k... I wonder what happened to the rev limiter.

lol.. can't wait until I see this.

lol at the stock rb20t turbo running out of puff at 3.5k, they are small but they aren't that bad. Mine used to get going at 3.5k @1bar and would hold 1bar until a shade over 7000rpm where I would shift up. Poor boost controllers would have boost dropping off at high rpm, fitting up a decent controller picked up 10rwkw and gave it the feeling that it keeps pulling and pulling until a shade over 7000rpm.

The purpose of WD40 isn't to evaporate water its purpose is to run off water.. If wd40 hangs around or not is up to wd40. lanoline decides it wants to hang around.

lol... Yer mines 0.44 as well.. so damn hard to get it spot on.

Craved posted a pic above.. Post #3829

Thats from the R33 manual paul?

That depends how low.. I too often see silvia's and the odd r33 that runs suspension so damn hard you can see the car bouncing slightly over bumps. I would hate to hit a pot hole mid corner. Its always been this way, illegally lowering suspension can be damn dangerous.

Its obviously not connected.... Off the throttle the factory manual states it should read 0.46v. There's two plugs, one for idle, one for full throttle.

Go the jun style lump... It obviously won't look anywhere near as pronounced, hardly noticable.

The springs are interchangable but not the 'same'. RB20det's are softer. BKR7E and BCPR6E plugs are recommended int he RB25, RB20 and RB26. Water pumps are interchangable, oil pumps are interchangable. Cam belts are interchangable

Take it to a crash shop and ask if they can nicely put a controlled dent in it or something.. Looks like you may have to go some sort of bonnet scoop, shell out for an aftermarket plenum or thought about grinding the plenum yet?