Cubes

Not many R34's.. A few R32's, with 4 times the amount of R33's, in my area at least.

Exactly.

sorry off topic but lmao at your new avtar Nismoid..

A relay is a simple switch. When you flick the dash light switch it completes a circuit, this enables the relay that then feeds the lights with current directly from the battery. The RB's tend to run anywhere from low 13v to high 13v depending on engine rpm, temperature and load. Well from what I've seen on various 32's and 33's. When stone cold its up over 14v. Nissan for what ever reason don't run the setup I mention above, they have the lights drawing their current through the light switch, within the light switch there is obviously a high resistence that causes the lugs to eventually melt. Where there's heat there is resistence, where there's resistence there's a voltage drop.

Thats true Busy2k... If you have the money, well pay some one to get their hands dirty, I know I would.

Then there's Bu5ters 8500rpm RB30DET monster. 3lit3_32, You missed one VERY important part of a high rpm build. The oil pump drive crank collar. The RB30 requires a fluid balancer (ati) for it to be reliable @ 7000-7500rpm+. I was suprised how nice an RB30DET GT35R .82 was to drive. It made boost from as low as 2000rpm and hit hard around 3500rpm and this was on a fairly low comp rb30det as it was running stock rb30 n/a pistons and a 1.6mm head gasket. Off the top of my head a shade under 8:1. A GT35R .82 on an RB25DET... I really wouldn't like to drive it lag isn't my thing. For a daily driver, I wouldn't run larger than a gt3040 on the rb25. I tend to trust mr Nismoids spool/lag figures.. GT3040 .82 on rb25 I believe it got up and started to move at around 4000rpm. Now drop the gt35r on the rb25 and your easily looking at another 500-600rpm.

wow.

http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/rss/content...ation_guide.htm

You always pay a shiet load more when having people work on your car. You could save $300 on the $1500 price tag by shopping around and buying the parts your self.

A friend of mine was caught doing 125 in a 50 zone. He lost his license for 6 months and received I believe a $300 odd fine. I really think he got off lightly with both the fine and the suspension as he had a lawyer present.

joc, Tell us... Have you had the car tuned or did the car come with the pfc?

I've found the leads and connection point are a big part as to how well it jump starts. Then next is the car jump starting.. For example mine idling will jump start anything instantly providing I use good leads and have a good connection. The inlaws VN dunga door on the other hand has to have its rpm brought up in order to jump start mine and the inlaws bmw. Their BMW jump starts mine and the vn first pop. I had to run a new earth wire from the battery to the chassis and block as I my battery was going flat really easily. 30-1hr of just the radio on would send it flat enough so that it wasn't able to start the car, even though the battery was showing 12+v. Since the nice new fat earth wire went its been fine.

It is normal for the pfc's default values paired up with the rb30det, warm it should start instantly, cold it will take 2 turns or so. Well with the values below at least. Here's the values I'm running now. +80 - 10 +50 - 14 +30 - 22 +10 - 30 These values worked fine with the std rb20det injectors and gtr injectors. All though cold starts 'could' be improved at least they start the car fairly well, not 7cranks. I must say my Skyline has never started as well as my old VL. The vl was instant.

Mine always takes 2 turn overs to start, which is nothing like it was on the std values where it would most of the time take a good 5-6 turn overs. The 3ltr has never been as instant on cold starts as the rb20 was. I've fiddled a little with the +10degree's cranking ms but i'm happy with 2 turn overs until it starts. I really think furthur tweaking of the cold start values + tweaking of the water temp correction. Tweaking takes so damn long though as cold starts only happen once per day and before you know it coolant temps are pushing 30+degree's, I might try throwing a little more fuel in the cranking ms and see if it does anything tomorrow. If that doesn't appear to improve cranking time I will throw a little more fuel in the +10 water temp correction. Once I've got a perfect set of values I'll post them up. Has any one left the warm start (80+) value at the default 4? I did, pulled over, shut the car down went to start it and the damn thing wouldn't start until coolant temps dropped, I had no idea what was going on as it was only when I just began fiddling with the pfc. With regards to idle speed. I've recently bumped it up to 800 as the RB25det's idle at as I found 650-700rpm was a tad low with the wipers, lights and heater on while idling in traffic. 800 appears to be just right with a/c idle being 850.

How about idle pressure where the pressure relief valve isn't being used?

With regards to idle.... Simply setting idle in the pfc isn't enough, you must first set idle via the pfc, disconnect the idle control valve plug then manually adjust the idle it sits basically smack on but not over the value entered in to the pfc. Then disconnect the battery, reconnect and have the pfc go through its idle learn process both. Also when starting... Be sure you don't touch the throttle. I've found alittle bug in my PFC that appear to show its head when the car is cold. The problem is it doesn't always do it but only does it if I start the car as I am slightly touching the throttle. The cars fuel cut is thrown out, as a result the first cm or so of throttle input cuts fuel, as a result causing a huge flat spot. If I raise rpm slightly within this first cm or so the idle will raise to 2000rpm or so then fuel cut will occur dropping throttle. Apart from your little problem.. How is it on fuel?

Duncan, I tend not to disable the ignition coil but disable the fuel pump so fuel doesn't enter the combustion chamber. I warm the car up then disable the fuel pump allowing the car to stall. I have a nice handly little switch as I've ran a direct volt feed to the fuel pump so it saves me removing a couple of screws and unplugging the fuel pumps plug. Unsure if the small amount of fuel that enters the combustion chamber will skew the result or not IF the fuel pump is left enabled.

The inj. correction really doesn't make any difference providing the base map has been tuned to suit, as Color_of_green has stated. Its pretty much the same with lag time but it IS best to get the lag time right. I'm curious as to how its pouring black smoke? On idle? Under boost? Under quick heavy throttle? Mine with a flat 12:1 afr still trickles a little black smoke on wot, it can especially be seen at night time in the head lights of the dissapearing car behind. If its dropping a puff here or there look at the accel enrichment. I believe with the pfc you are able to reduce the sensitivity of the accel enrichment which 'MAY' pick up a little fuel economy as it doesn't drop out of closed loop as easy. I know with mine it is very sensitive to throttle input, the slightest little quick flick of the throttle and it drops out of closed loop.

Just as driving a modified car is. i.e ecu, larger turbo and injectors.

Definitely look at the mechanical side of things as the fueling will not raise rpm and do what you are stating. 1. IAC (Cold start idle control valve, this allows air in to the plenum as to raise idle when the motor is cold, as the motor warms it slowly closes) 2. Coolant temp sender. (Take note of how it reacts on a cold and warm start, obviously the warm start voltage will be very similiar as to when it was running) 3. While your there ensure idle rpm is set correctly. Disconnect the idle control solanoid plug and ensure idle rpm is a bee's dick under the a/c off value contained within the pfc. It shouldn't flick over this value. Tripple check all vacuum hoses, not just at the motor but carbon cannistor also. 4. The inj. correction should be set as followed... old injector size / new injector size * 100. So SR20? 444 cc / 740cc * 100 = 60%. The inj. correction does work extremely well, I found mine to run fairly rich once up on boost but off boost area's were pretty spot on. The o2 sensor was easily able to rim fuel quickly. So turn on closed loop feedback. Leave all water temp correction alone. If its warm starting and cold starting fine (as in it starts) then leave the starting injector time alone also. I have found pushing in more starting injector ms will flare rpm up on starting but its not like you state; its similiar to one reving the car quickly with idle settling on what it would depending on the conditions (cold or warm)

I've had a chat to regency regarding this, the 'older engine' is everything, from the block, head, emissions and ecu. The bloke I spoke to at least said there is no issues with the 'older engine' thing when using the head and emissions from that car as all we are essentially doing is stroking the motor. The car must pass an emissions test, he did say there wouldn't be issues if it ran on the std ecu as airflow is relative. He appeared to know what he was talking about but as with every government agency you call get some one else and get a whole different set of answers.

Your aac sounds a little clagged. Might need to rip it off and give it a clean in carby cleaner/petrol what ever. So did help the problem at all?

Here's the cam specs if your interested.

I'd say 6-7days per week.

Sounds like a good excuse as to 'why' I need that new turbo upgrade for the missues. Better fuel economy.