Cubes

impreziv, The rb20det cams run less duration and lift, BUT they do run more overlap, around 8degree's from memory. I'm running the standard N/A cams in my rb25 head, the inlet is the same as the turbo cam however the exh. cam runs slightly less duration and lift. The 25 na cams also run an overlap of around 8degree's where as the turbo's run 0 degree's overlap. But yes, I experience a little funny flat spot at low rpm where no matter how much fuel I push in it still reads lean. Maybe the overlap at that rpm is such that the charge is blown straight out the exhaust.

It really depends on how large the injectors are and if there's enough scope within the pfc's inj. map adjustment. The pfc only allows adjustment of 0.49 to 1.49. Or something along those lines anyway. So as you can see by that there is only limited room for adjustment. In your case .54 is pretty damn close to the lower limit the pfc allows. Within the datalogit there is a recalc base function, all though it has its flaws that too can be used to sort out the inj. trim function.

The rb20 N/A cams trade a little top end mid range. The N/A cams are essentially 'smaller'. The best upgrade for a stock engine is no upgrade. Spend the $$ on a nice turbo and the rest of the supporting mods then throw decent cams in it.

I think its more of a mechanical problem. Whats the little cold start air control valve called.. IAC or something.. Maybe the temp sensing bit is buggered or oversensitive. Maybe you are experiencing the start of a vacuum leak, when it all warms up things expand and the high idle fades to normal? I can't see the powerfc in its self raising rpm to 2000rpm when cold as it doesn't have the capability to do so 'only' when cold. Running rich or lean won't raise rpm to 2000rpm, HOWEVER something mechanical can.

AAC. Disconnect the plug connected to the aac, adjust idle so that it doesn't go over the pfc's idle value. Reconnect, init the pfc and let it learn the idle, turn a/c on let it learn again. It will take a little while for it to be 100% perfect but it will eventually get there. The accel. pump values need to be done on the dyno. You could fiddle and try to get it right by feel but on the dyno is much easier as you can see what the afr are doing. I assume you done done the simple overall inj. trim? 370/720*100 = 50% Have changed the inj. lag values to suit the larger injectors? Double check all the vacuum lines, especially the ones at the carbon canistor.

Another suggestion.. Did you replace your injector plugs? The old boots may have a small crack letting in a little water that causes corrosion.

popeye.. Right on the money there.. It is a damn good bargain.

What heat range plugs are you running? If your up in the low to mid 200's you should start looking at 7's. Spark plugs help remove heat from the combustion chamber, cooler plugs help prevent detonation.

How old are the plugs 10,000kms? Throw coppers in it, I find they last up to ~20,000km's.

Sky30, That torque comparison... I had a little look, and figured its not really worth it as torque is power relative. Ash's, mine and darrens torque is all fairly similiar as a result, yours is obviously off the chart as your making another 100rwkw more than any one else. + without knowing everyones exact wheel sizes it does make it a little difficult to make 100% accurate.

I've been lazy. I've got the gear to do it just haven't got around to it. The wiring is really easy as its only a couple of wires. I've used relays in the past to run a direct feed to my fuel pump. The voltage to the fuel pump went from 11.3v under load to 13.8v under load.

Darren, Its been a day or two since I posted the SuperPI, has yours finished the 1mb test yet? lmao.

On the topic of where to place the higher flowing injectors.. I remember some time ago some one did a flow test on the std rb25 inlet manifold, it showed the two middle cylinders flowed slightly greater, I believe it was on the SDU forums; would this not indicate that the higher flowing injectors should be placed in the two middle cylinders. The GTR style plenum is a different story, I'm assuming this is where the front and rear cylinder = higher flowing injectors origionated from and applied to the rb25det style plenum?

The major bugger about WOW is the on going costs. ~$40 for 60days. Especially if one doesn't have the time to always use it.

With regards to the light switch. Nissan for what ever reason, decided to have the lights sucking all power through the light switch. To prevent the contact lugs melting in the future you really must rewire the headlights using a relay. Relays if you google are very easy to hook up. Rewiring the headlights using a relay gives you a slight boost in light output as the lights are 'seeing' a greater voltage. Its obvious really, if a light switch is getting hot enough to melt plastic lugs there IS resistance reducing the amount of power getting to the headlights. While rewiring its also easy to switch over to the H3 bulbs should you be unfortunate to have headlights that run the H3C bulbs. Here's a little article on how to convert from H3C bulbs. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10675

I had a really strange rattle from the engine bay that appeared to fade in at around 2000rpm then dissapear. Turned out it was my alt belt was too loose, I can't say I've ever heard a loose belt cause a sound as such before, maybe the bearings in the alt are on their way out. none the less check your alt/pwr/ac belts, rule them out.

Believe it or not the old 4stroke motor is more efficient as in makes more power from the fuel supplied when the throttle is open rather than almost closed. A butterfly/throttle body that is almost closed causes the motor to work hard in order to suck air in, this is known as pumping loss. If you were to drive at a lower rpm with a greater throttle opening in theory you should be a little more fuel efficent, providing its not tuned to go rich as soon as you open the throttle up. So, give it some nice open throttle low in the rpm and have that area tuned to stoich. Even if its making 1-2psi still tune it to stoich.

I must also add.. lmao at the deleted posts doc on the desktop of the screenie.

Roymeister, What duty cycle did you run at the usual power level and the 250rwkw or whatever it was?

lol... Don't touch the agp voltage. bzzzzzzzzt Only bits safeish to touch are the cpu (max 1.8-1.9), vdd (max 1.8, 1.9 with better cooling), and mem (max 2.9v). Fingers crossed the std vdd works ok at 200fsb. To improve superpi a little more the only way is to tighten up the ram and possibly push to 2300mhz. Which I think is out of the question, 2200mhz is all your going to get with a vdd ~1.6v. My board needs a vdd of 1.7v+ @200+mhz.

The new GTR will look awesome in the flesh. I wonder how much it will weigh in at.

Yes vid card overclocking is nervous territory for myself.. I've pushed my 9700pro quite hard in the past with a huge old cpu hsf hanging off it but it is iffy, on a couple of occasions i've had it display garble so its running @ stock speeds. The increase in gfx performance when overclocking the vid card is minimal and almost not noticable in games. In my experience anyway. I had a good game of Hitman blood money.. I gave up after snipering 2 dudes and couldn't find the third. Runs well though.

The 8RDA+ will push 200fsb no problems, I suspect the stability problem you have encounted are due to the lack of cpu and possibly chipset voltage. The 8RDA+ runs an AGP lock you won't have problems frying vid cards should you push the bus speeds too high. The nforce2 boards don't run a pci lock but they do run dividers. The boards dividers are setup as the following to achieve the 33mhz pci speeds. 133mhz FSB (266DDR) / 4 = 33mhz PCI 166mhz FSB (333DDR) / 5 = 33mhz PCI 200mhz FSB (400DDR) / 6 = 33mhz PCI So anywhere inbetween those fsb speeds you are using the divider prior. As you are running a 180mhz FSB (360DDR) the motherboard will be running the divisor of 5. So your PCI bus speeds will be slightly out of spec at 36mhz. 36mhz is no problems, I've only seen problems when pushing 42mhz but it really does depend on the card. 42mhz is impossible on our nforce2 boards UNLESS we run a FSB of 252mhz or 504mhz. 'Some' have had their nforce2 boards running such a speed but you will notice they tend not to run any pci cards and disable onboard sata/lan etc. The most I've pushed is around 230mhz and that was after a VERY nervous VDD mod. So either way with the Nforce2 board you won't be frying cards unless you manually jump in to the bios and ramp up the agp speed from 66mhz. The nforce2 boards really are pretty easy and safe to overclock. What board did you fry the FX5600 with? I'm assuming a via based board as its impossible with the nforce1/2 board unless you accidently bumped up the agp frequency.

Just finished dloading the hitmanbloodmoney demo.. Looks pretty damn brutal.

Andrew, What m/board are you running? The cpu voltage is in the bios. I wouldn't go pushing it past 1.8-1.9v as heat does become an issue, even with a top end air cooler. You may also need to bump up the vdd (chipset voltage) to 1.7. If its nforce2 it will automatically flick over to the 6th divider when you select 200fsb so there's no worries killing pci cards and what not. I run one of these suckers with a thermal take smart fan II, i've attached the temp sensor on to the core via thermal epoxy, it works well, idling around web browsing nice and quiet, in games etc it ramps up. The fan pushes around 75cfm at full noise 4800rpm.. The HSF cost me ~$80 some time ago. Before that I was running an old SLK-800 that I passed on to my parents machine.