Cassbo

This is probably where I went wrong... It was their "NRMA approved" repair centre in Rosebery... It was a 2000 Toyota Avalon and the story they gave me that they received a guard that was also damaged from a wrecker and I got this news the day before we were moving. This news also came after they had the car for a week and after they first inspected the car two weeks prior. NRMA / IAG took the stance of "we aren't at fault so we aren't doing anything about it" Now this was all over a sub $5k car, if I had to go through the same process with my old Skyline that I was unreasonably and emotionally attached to I would have properly lost my shit

I'm glad your folks have had a good run with NRMA, mine has just been an ongoing headache! Loss of transport wasn't our issue, they promised that the car would be repaired before we permanently moved to QLD, and because it wasn't we had to abandon the car and I now have to sell the car via proxy. Had they been upfront with the possibility of a delay I would have slapped a wrecker headlight on it and dealt with the rest of the repairs in QLD.

After recently going through the NRMA claims process after hitting a kangaroo and the entire repair process taking 6 weeks to repair a headlight, passenger side guard and bonnet on a Toyota Avalon, I would trust any insurance company underwritten by IAG with extreme scrutiny. I was promised that the repairs would be completed by a certain date and because it wasn't I now have a car over 1000kms away from where I now live with no practical means of getting it to me...

Spotted a black Stagea 260RS (or at least a Stagea with a 260RS front bar) between Maryborough and Gympie today

Spotted a black Stagea 260RS (or at least a Stagea with a 260RS front bar) between Maryborough and Gympie today

I'm also curious of the results of this. Like you, I didn't want to trim my front bar to fit a FMIC. I did have an idea of getting a custom SMIC fabbed up from a brand new core, but ultimately never went past that point as there simply was no point in spending that much money on a SMIC when I was only running a standard R34 turbo on wastegate pressure anyway. Keep us posted

Closest to a genuine workshop manual that is in English will be this one, a translation from the original Japanese item http://jpnz.co.nz/product/nissan-r33-skyline-full-workshop-manual/

I was going to approach an engineer until October 2014 when my R33 was written off in a flood. I had adjustable arms with spherical bearings on it and was a little concerned about defects. I'll admit that if I were to do it again, I'd probably choose bushes over bearings... In hindsight the increase in NVH, the cost of replacement bearings and the stress of law enforcement attention (if engineered or not) just wasn't worth the "increased performance" (not that I could tell, I was replacing 15 year old OEM bushes with bearings, of course there was going to be a performance increase). Unless it were a dedicated track car, which I don't see my finances being good enough to handle at the moment [emoji23]

My interpretation of the rules makes me think that you just need to get an engineer to sign off on it https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP11_Section_LS_Tyres_Suspension_Steering_Nov_2015_v4.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiwwNSJ6ZXPAhWEmZQKHQn5C_EQFgggMAI&usg=AFQjCNFZ6jheyXhqRGWl3zaZ7qbZSGK2hg&sig2=vBG4FoqZkRegERGwLHFkqQ Page 25

Having bent standard lower control arms and brackets in the front end if a R33, "strong as f**k" is probably not the word I would describe standard control arms. Not that I would recommend super strong control arms... I'd rather the arm bend or break in an accident rather than the mounting points on the body of the car. The main issue I see with the idea of spherical bearings in standard arms is that the kind of person that wants to eliminate all potential slop in the suspension at the cost of NVH is also the kind of person that wants camber adjustment, which standard control arms simply provide hardly any in the rear end and absolutely none in the front. Not everyone uses adjustable for camber correction after "slamming" their car, some of us want -3 degrees for track days

Read this

Download this, it's a handy reference! http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/downloads/R33_All_Engine_Manual.pdf Page EN-178 is the start of the turbocharger and exhaust manifold section. Unless I'm mistaken, it says that the recommended torque for the nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold is 23 to 29 Nm

Fenix use the same part number for radiators to suit R33s and R34s http://www.fenixradiators.com.au/R33-R34

Error code 55 is no malfunction... source http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/ Also check out antrx.com and/or the antrx Facebook page. They are both pretty quiet these days, but a few knowledgeable members still keep an eye on them and they do have some helpful threads on there already From my brief readings I can think of two things it could be, but I'm far from an expert... The KA24 is prone to distributor failure due to oil leaking into it from the cam cover Nissans of this vintage can have air flow meter issues Where are you located? If you a nearby to Canterbury and I can find a spare afternoon we can swap AFMs and dizzys to see if that narrows the fault down?

^^ This. Most advice given will be anecdotal as everyone has slightly different opinions about how a car should handle.I for one think that hard coilovers (eg, my old JDM Ohlins...10kg up front and 8kg in the rear) your might not even need aftermarket bars. On the flip side, aftermarket swaybars combined with standard springs and shocks I found to be a good combination, particularly when you start talking about taking your car to a track or motorkhana

Possible but highly unlikely. Remove the passenger side kick panel and have a look at the ECU to find out!

This how I read this... As to why your car seems to run fine cold but not so good when warm / under load, sounds like an electrical and/or sensor problem to me. See if you can hook up an ECU scanner onto it and see if it throws any error codes

I used Subaru upper engine cleaner in my Skyline a few times, it is hard to start if you dump too much into the engine at a time but it clears after running the car for a minute or so. Neighbours love the smoke show As above, more information is needed or at the very least a better mechanic

Don't listen to this guy, this video clearly demonstrates how to do a burnout.

It does work, a mate of mine had to cut the exhaust shorter and reweld the flange to get the R33 GTS-t OEM exhaust to fit a R34 GT-t. Afaik nothing else needs to be done, most or all of the hangers line up fine

I installed a Nismo thermostat in my R33. Was great, car never got the chance to get out of cold tune! And it only cost $120! So glad I didn't spend $40 on an OEM thermostat that would hold a collant temp over 60 deg C, fuel economy is for chumps! /Sarcasm

Want to drain the coolant out of your coolant overflow reservoir? 1. Remove hose on radiator side 2. Point away from the bodywork of the car and towards to ground, preferably into a container 3. Find the breather hole on the overflow reservoir. 4. Find a length of hose that fits snugly into the breather hole. The better the fit, the easier the next step 5. Blow into the hose, the air will force the coolant to start running out of the other end into you container on the ground and will continue to do so until it is pretty much entirely drained 6. Finish off your coolant replacement procedure. 7. Rip skids

Yeah, it makes the CA20E equipped R31 Pintara sound like a race car!

As I believe no importer will ever import the FR32, ask yourself, is it worth... 1. Spend money purchasing the FR32 from Japan 2. Spend the money shipping it to Australia 3. Spend the money putting it through compliance 4. Spend the money registering 5. Spend the money buying the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes 6. Spend the money fitting the SR20 / gearbox / diff / brakes 7. Spend the money engineering your now modified FR32 8. Spend the money insuring your now modified FR32 If you answered yes to all these questions and the gumbyment changes the rules to allow you to import a FR32, then draw up a plan on how to make it happen and then make it happen. Personally, to me it makes much more sense to buy a R32 rolling shell that's already here in Australia and fit the engine / gearbox / whatever else it takes to have a working car if I really wanted a SR20 powered R32

Over the years I've only used 3 types of rotors in my Riceline, OEM, RDA Slotted and Dimpled and DBA T3 Slotted. In my opinion there was very little difference in performance between the three as far as on the track went. I found that the main difference came to how glazed the rotors where at the end of the day (OEM glazed badly, RDA was better and DBA was even better than RDA) and NVH (OEM had little to no NVH, DBA had a little and RDA had the most) If I had to do it all over again and price wasn't a consideration, I'd probably go the DBAs for no other reason than I like the look of the slot pattern. In reality I'd probably just go an OEM or OEM style because I'm tighter these days!