killa-watt

Yeah just slapping a 25 head on and boosting it, is a low K donk that I was gonna have a quick look at the bearings before putting it in the car etc

So your saying once you undo em they are bin jobs

That was my thinking I'm sure many people re-use them too and have no drama was just wondering what was the correct way, would an engine builder re-use them etc

Yeah I would use arp's, but then it means resizing the rods, was hoping to have a quick inspection of the bottom end which I'm sure is fine, and then bolt it back up, but if they are single use I don't want to introduce dramas

I'm sure this has been covered somewhere but I can't find info. What's the general consensus when it comes to checking bearings, can I simply re-tighten the nuts on the rods or do I need to throw em and start again. Are they a TTY bolt, it's on an RB30 if that's different to the other RBs.

Yeah it will pressurize the sump and push oil up through the turbo drain, past the seals and smoke. Think I've got the turbo sorted but was wanting to confirm this water return question. There are no pics on the web that I can find that show water flow direction through the rb. Was wondering what would happen if two paths of coolant were flowing at each other.

That top set of pics is from the greddy install guide that is all over the net the bottom of the top two pics shows the return line.All the oil lines are standard.

So i removed a freddy intake from one rb25 and the coolant return line was like so Then I installed this plenum to another Rb25 and changed it to this setup Which one of these is the correct way, I didn't think it would matter but I'm pretty sure I've just blown the seals on my turbo in a car that has only been started maybe 20 times in the shed and the turbo blew no smoke at all before this. The turbo is used and there is a slight chance it has just decided to call it quits but this is the only thing I've changed any thoughts ...

Does anyone know of a front reo that bolts up to a c33 and will work with a stock bar with little to no alteration

The sensor is there before the dome thing, one bloke seems to think it's a T piece that went to hicas and that the dome nut has been used to block it off from leaking

Tried that but was tight as and felt like something would crack. I've never seen it on a r32 or 180 that i've worked on

Just wondering if I can remove this chrome dome thing on the powersteering line. I want to cut before it, re-flare the line and put it back in the rack to neaten things. The car is a c33 and had hicas but is now removed but running the same rack and that ugly line. Any heads up would be a great help

Think the last owner must have converted from auto to a manual and liked the idea of putting this on.

Here are some snaps

Is that pic rb?, they are both manual but perhaps the last owner converted auto to manual and thought they'd use it. Anyone have a pic from the workshop manual, I looked through my r32 gtr manual (closest I have to rb25) and can't find the damn flywheel part lol, is in the clutch section or the engine

yeah its a ring with six holes in it goes crank, flywheel, ring, bolts can't get a pic tonight maybe tomorrow night

Just wondering if the ring that sits between the flywheel and the bolts is needed when installing flywheel. Reason I ask is I have two motors one has it and the other doesn't