gotRICE?

Have you checked all the bulbs that are connected with that fuse? Iv had a bulb blow so bad, that it blew the fuse because the filaments were shorting out, and of course the second you stuck a fuse in it popped again. Check all the bulbs and make sure one hasnt exploded.

Burn it. If it was me id be replacing it with an Apexi. Either the pod, or if you have the stock airbox chuck an Apexi Panel filter in there.

Ahahahahaha

Personally i wouldnt T it off the MAP line. Link specifically quote to NOT T off anything. Boost gauges, FPRs, BOVs or any solenoid of any type. A clean un-interrupted vac source. Its up to you in the end however.

So installed mine. Piece of piss. Did it all from memory of this thread. Not quite sure if its just that you Aussies are Animals or what , but the nuts holding the lines into the caliper and into the hardline against the body were a sinch to undo lol. I didnt even touch the car with any penetrator. Stuck a regular spanner on it and tapped it with a rubber mallet. Undid like a normal bolt Only think i noticed that i was to start with, a little weary about was that as you can see in this picture: http://www.skylinesa...ttach_id=297489 Where the line exits the caliper, the arc it makes to head off to the bracket is quite close to the swaybar, and at full lock it does come into contact with it. But i figured, so long as you inspect them every time you have the car on the hoist or when you get your cars inspected for roadworthyness or whatever you dudes call it over there, it should be fine. Im just more cautious about having full lock. I get guard rub anyway so am already gentle with lock. Very happy with them though EDIT: Lol i just noticed you have the exact same shocks as me too. I could claim that as my car and noone would be the wiser haha.

Beautiful car! It is quite nice to put a face to a forum name every now and then and a car, that you so often quote about when your spanking teh newbs. I can kinda see where your going with it, at least one little squirt would have given most viewers the smile they were after. And although that R34 is an amazing looking car, it seemed odd to me to be sitting there rattling on about you HachR31 and everything about it, yet having the R34 sitting behind you and only showing pop shots of the R31 briefly. And seeing that you have put an incredible amount of effort into making it look better than it did rolling off the Nissan line, it needed the exposure it deserved! Also, one thing that really catches my attention in a video, is short shots of the car from the exterior driving by. So you can hear it coming towards you and going away etc. All constructive feedback from me. Hoping thats the kinda thing your after. Other than that, Nice video!

As above couple of posts stated, getting the JJR version will work, but getting a Bitz outta Japan wont cost much more. The reason i went blitz over JJR was because of the insane shipping costs. It worked out i think $100 more to get a Blitz. I also think you are looking way to deep into the LTNZ laws regarding the 20% power increase. In all the time i have been modding cars, i have yet to see ANYONE done for having 20% more than factory. The only thing cops care about for LowVolume Certs are adjustable height suspension and motor swaps.

Id agree with that. Its better to be safe than sorrry.. bad batch of fuel or a stupidly hot day perhaps? Is that that area of the stock ECU where it pulls a bit of timing too?

Thats somethig i have never seen before.. This, and the hoses are both on the same side of the Rad! Mine just sits there and the water bobs up and down. This of course is assuming the radiator is the same style as the stock one.

I thought they were 5psi? They boost 5 stock before the solenoid bleeds off 2.

I think your problem is your looking to deep into things. You installed a new turbo, and now your noticing all these different things. It is completely normal for the water droplets to show up. The reason you notice it at startup is because the exhaust isnt hot enough yet. Take a look around when your driving. You will now probly notice cars shooting water out the exhaust when they take off up a hill. It happens occasionally. I know when i installed my new ECU and tuned it, i was paying so much attention to how the car felt, id decided that it was no better if not worse, than the stock ECU. Clearly it wasnt

^ You are talented! We all have special talents. Mine being breaking a "breaker bar" (lol) but trying to undo the welded side of an engine mount nut I lol'd. Edit: oops, reason i replied, Thanks for the writeup! I have my set sitting here waiting to go in with some new pads Might as well write back with my findings too.

I dont know what the worry is with cutting the bumper and REO bar, NZ doesnt have quite the anal laws over it. And even if they do, they arent enforced. And so long as you do it carfully and dont hack the shit to pieces noone will notice. The chinese ones would work find. Plenty of 300rwkw Skylines i know of using them. The Blitz CS would be what id buy now. I have the Blitz LM in my R33 in NZ. Beautiful piece of kit. Seeing as you bought the EVO intercooler, post up some pics of the install. Interested to see how it fits. Edit: And the reason theres noone on here thats dont anything similar to help you out, is because out of the hundreds of people that pose the same question, they get the same answer. Dont waste your time, get one thats for the car. They end up doing that, and never looking back GL However

Its fine. The pump should have come with its own crimp connecters. But it doesnt matter what you use. Dont forget, the plug is submerged in fuel, and where the wire goes into the plug fuel gets in there too. Its no different. Plus, AFAIK fuel doesnt conduct all that well.

It just slots into place. And yes, it is secure so long as you slot it in right It is a factory mounting.

VCT Will help a world. A good stiffer spring actuator wont do it any worse either. The closer to the desired level the better!

Hahaha yeah i wanted to say that it was shithouse and he was excited over something that could be alot better.. but i thought id be nice first

Thats really tidy! I need to get my ass into making one too. Do you notice if the pod etc is cool after long drives? I was thinking of making one, and i too have a Blitz Return flow, so was wondering whether there is sufficient airflow around the headlight? Was going to try incorporate the stock snorkle, and use Crabon instead of plastic Speaking of crabon, does anyone know if that sheet stuff you can buy will bend with heat like that? or will it just go fuuparr ans snap?

Not having VCT is costing you spool. Id expect 17psi by around 3500-3700rpm. On stock manifold, stock cams and 98. Internal gate too.

I think an STi in stock form would give a GTT a fair bit of trouble TBH.

This. I dont know why people say 3076 is laggy. But then, comparing any turbo to a stock RB25 turbo its laggy. I thoroughly enjoy driving Lithiums 300kw 3076 .82 R33. The extra "lag" actually makes the car quite nice to drive. Your not constantly making boost without trying haha. But if you want it, its not far away! Plus.. the turbo spool noise is orgasmic.

Looks good! Been meaning to do the wipers on mine for ages. They are chrome underneath the black . Amazing how something like a scuttle panel and wiper paint job makes you feel so much more in love with the car haha.

^^^ That looks swell The only benefit from the low mount 3076 is that it lurks. If you use black piping the engine bay looks completely stock. (to a point)

They dont have a plug on both ends, it has one for the pump. The other end you use the supplied connectors. You Just have to wire it into the stock wiring. Positive and Negative. Pretty basic. The reason people use the stock sock is because it sits on a better angle than the walbro sock.. It can cause surging when the fuel gets low. More so on tracks. If you get one you will see. I havnt, as i said, had any issues yet and my low fuel light came on the other day.