gotRICE?

Not everything in those factory specs is 100% correct. For example, they list the "standard features" (in my eyes, every car has regardless) as having fog lamps. Mine does not. It has the switch for them, but it has the GTR style OEM front end on it without the space for fog lamps.

Any Vac source on the plenum will do. Most people either snake the stock boost gauge line, or T into the FPR vac feed.

I had mine blocked for a while, but after a few months it was beginning to smoke a bit out the exhaust. I think just venting straight to atmo, in my application wasnt enough. As i had the Exhaust cam cover to turbo pipe blocked also.

You should sell the FPR and use the money on injectors Its not needed.

I dont think its causing you this problem, but as far as im aware, and from every other m MAP car i have ever seen, the MAP sensor is supposed to be plumbed AFTER the throttle body... not before. Might be something to think about too.

I have done it with mine on more than one occasion. Get it inside. Dis connect the battery, fill the washer bottle etc, and just go. I had a fresh oil change in mine and a full tank of gas. Came back after 5 months, put the battery on, started it up and drove away. I might also recommend bumping up the PSi in the tires a few PSI, that, or if its possible try chuck it on axle stands. OR if you have them, put the stock wheels back on just so you dont get flat spots on the tires The way i did it, was fine. So i guess it depends on how paranoid you are. I didnt get flat spots. Think i upped the PSI in mine to around 45.

Id get it for $500. plus, the G3 can be updated with the G4 firmware as far as i have read. Plus you get to ditch the AFM and run a hektikxx BOV

If something has blown (clearly it has) visually it will be a piece of cake. It will take you 5 mins to pull out and replace each fuse under the dash. And obviously when i mean replace, i mean put it back if it aint broke And id say that more than likely it will be a 10A, so start with them Have a flashlight handy, makes it easier to see if its blown.

Mine has the same, and to the people that are confising it with the HICAS computer, its not. It cant be accessed with the rear seats in. Its mounted just above the shock tower. I only found it in mine when i changed springs. Scratched my head a bit, and forgot about it

Best way is to just pull them all out and find what ones broken.

Could possibly be an exhaust leak. I think they tick a bit with them! Its a bit of an asshole of a job to change the gaskets just incase.. might be worth really getting in there to try find out.

I had a look at that, and was wondering how it fit, as as far as im aware, the GT30R needs a 10mm spacer to clear everything on an RB20/25 with a stock manifold. How'd they get around that one?

Id say the power increase would be the same for a Skyline and a Stag wouldnt it? With mine, it netted a 2kw gain in the top end of the graph, but where it really shone was the midrange. There was a slight timing advance on the EXH side with the tune at the same time. This flattened off that dip at the top end. I wouldnt spend money on a dyno tune mind you. Not worth it. I only Dyno tuned mine because it was a mate of a mate that had a full hub dyno set up in his garage.

I must have a sensitive sense of humor today because that almost made me spit my nasty green Schweppes lime drink all over my laptop. hahahah

CAS is the thingy on the EXH Cam right? If so, i did that on the dyno last time i had it on for a fuel tidy up just to see what it would do. Works a treat. Any more and it was worse, and any less it was worse again. It was by fluke we put it in the perfect spot 1st time round. (Stock ECU with SAFC BTW.. hence the nasty flatspot) Thats what we were trying to smooth out too. The dip. Achieved! And as always. Forget the peak. NZ Hub dynos.. Oh, and Edit: I believe it was run in 3rd. Still has Speed cut hence redic. torque figures and ratio.

I guess its a case where something was bought to do an intended job, it failed, that is frustrating. So it was replaced under warranty, then fails again. Being even more frustrating. Then you get silly and start pressuring people. See it all the time when people build cars, they get pissed of with stuff and go do something silly because there sick of waiting. Like get new coils without giving the seller a chance to rectify, or buying an expensive part when you "think" its the problem, when a 10 min swap would have eliminated it. But GOOD THINGS TAKE TIME! I cant say i have heard or read anything bad about YellowJackets before, and even if there was it was always rectified.

Prolly just as quick as the thread in the sump plug

I do that too. Keeps it all fresh Only takes 30 mins or so extra. I just do it while its draining haha.

Trust PE2 is pretty rowdy when you smash the go pedal. But normal driving its really nice. Lithium has one on his R33 with GT3076r. Its beautiful to drive/ride in normally, and then gives you the heebies when it opens up. Just roars. We are currently working on some comparison clips. Will post up if we get some dry weather.

I cant vote.. Mines a 3.75inch Mines a daily driven street car too. HKS Hi Power Silent...

Are you sure? I would have thought if the BOV's were being pushed open then all the boost would be blowing straight out.. Thus the Bov not reading properly as the air is not reaching the plenum.

x3 on the hot hot water. Obviously the sooner the better. As soon as you see some rush in and boil the jug! Takes it off no troubles at all. Then just give it a wipe and a touch up with polish if need be.

Im running the same and dont have problems either. It has hit RnR a few times on really cold mornings, but that was in the dead of winter. Id try borrowing a known working AFM before ordering a new one. A friend of mine bought a new AFM because he thought his one was bung. Turned out it wasnt. $600 odd down the drain. If only he'd taken my offer of borrowing mine...

I guess if you change your turbo once a week then yeah.. but most people just bolt it to the turbo and be done with it. So its not really an issue. If your changing turbos, then un-doing two more bolts and dropping the front/dump combo out isnt going to cause any sort of head strain.

I dont think the Greddy one is too expensive. And it has slots for oil press/temp gauges too.