gotRICE?

It would have sold well because they ditched the RB20

So if i want to stop, i hit the accelerator? f**k me iv been doing it all wrong!

People that have a drink in their hand when they get in their car?

Agree with this! Also the thing is, most people put new pads in on the rotors they currently have. The rotors that are current have been bed in with different pads. So the best idea is to skim the rotos BEFORE putting the new pads in. Or, new rotors. Then bed them in like a bastard. When i was trying to stop mine, i tried every method i could think of, and still it came back. Put new slotted rotors on (that also help with pad glazing), scuffed the pads, and went out and bed them in by giving them a freeway beating. 5 or so 100-50s calmly to warm them up, then the same, but aggressive 120-30 (about) to get them really hot. Did it a further 3 times, and the smoke was pouring off them. Parked up and let them cool off completely. Havnt heard a peep from them since. (6-8 months)

I actually never worked out whether there was a 4piston caliper pusher :s I did it a naughty way , one piston at a time. Start with one, (cap off master cylinder), push it in however you figure out how to, put the pad in horizontal. Then press the bottom one in and swing the pad back down vertcal. Repeat for the other side. I found that was the only way i could do it. As every time you squeeze one piston in, is fires the other three straight back out Anyone know of a 4piston pusher? Cheap? I had a single pusher for my Hondas... worked a charm and was only $15.

Lucky i guess Its still in my "My orders". And its actually not as light as you'd imagine from memory. No lighter than factory anyway i dont think. The thing that bothered me the most was that it doesnt screw down far anough, and theres a gap between the gear lever boot..

Yeah thats what i thought you were talking about. Its just a screw. 10mm with a phillips head. Tricky to get to with the guard liner on, but possible.

33s have a cup holder.They wven have a little clip for "smaller" cups. Its useless though. Not deep enough for V bottles

Yeah i agree with that. They are quite comfortable! I had it in mine for a year or so before realizing i didnt like the look of it anymore I got the Duracon from Nengun for $55AU delivered to NZ. And the OEM item was from RHDJapan, $90NZD delivered to NZ PS: The sticker doesnt stick to anything...

Its because you glaze the pads. Theyre designed to be alot hotter, so if you keep using them when they dont get hot the glaze over causing the squealing. Rub them on a bit of sand paper and put them back in. They'l be quiet again for about 30 mins

Tried unbolting it from the inside?

It looks like a bable-fish translation. But to be fair some of the Japanese English in some of the genuine HKS/Nismo etc stuff i have is pretty bad. I bought an OEM R32/33 GTR/GTSt gear knob out of japan. The package calls it a "Knob Control" Look closely under the Nissan logo. Personally.. the Duracon looks horrid. Hence why i bought the OEM,

it should be the same as a gtst. Generally its a 10mm bolt with a phillips head on it. where it screws/bolts into there should be a plastic insert for the thread to grip how about an actual picture of what your talking about rather than one you cant actually make out what your looking at

Holy crap i got all of that listed for less than the price of the Idler pulley!

All of it. Bit seriously, they dont handle stock boost that well for long periods of time. About 10psi and they pretty much stay permanently heatsoaked.

Its common yes, but fixable. Just trial and error with every setup. If your unlucky and get the ear piercing screeeeeech its no good. But if its light enough to live with, dont worry.

It works out pretty similar. Grounding the wire will indeed give you 10 or so PSI if you have a turbo back exhaust etc, and so will the R32 actuator. I just used it for cleanliness. I guess it depends on the FMIC you choose. I didnt notice any change in throttle response personally.

The increased "lag" isnt noticeable. So dont let that alter your judgment Yep thats an R32 Actuator. I gave it a squirt with black paint before i put it all together.

Id like to see that!

Te he he. Too Troo! Not entirely... maybe just a G4 GTS link If i go with what Keith said, getting the later one would be a better way to go. Speaking of.. can he get them?

Ah yeah, i have that too! Lol. And some random blanked off nipple on the front of the plenum.. no ideas what its for.

All good! As mentioned in PM, im pretty sure im at my upper limit RE: SAFC tune. As from that point on, no matter what we did with timing/airflow adjustments, it never got any better. Seemed to be the sweet spot. And id rather fiddle with it on the dyno if you were to forward a bit of info. And i wont be spending any more on it untill i can afford /ask the mrs if its ok/etc etc, to buy a G4

The other thing is, spraying the core while on boost isnt really going to net you anything. The core needs to be cold before hand so it can obsorb more heat. Theres a big IC sprayer article floating around where a guy did temperature testing with them. Basically you need to be on full boost for a hell of a long time for there to be any real raise in intake temps. Im guessing thats why Auto sprayers on EVO's etc spray under brakes.. so the core cools down more for the NEXT time you nail it Not cool-as-you-go

Yep they are two different things The solenoid: The acutator: Obviously the bit on the right If it was me, id find an r32 actuator and ditch the solenoid all together Thats what i did.