gotRICE?

The 98 40th Anniversary's just had a couple of extra optional body kits i believe. GTR wing being one part, and a different front bumper. GTR styled. Mine never had the badges, but has the stitching on the seats. Has the GTR style bumper, and GTR wing. I got the full shebang on mine cosmetics wise. All i "missed" out on was the sunroof and A-LSD.. not that im worried (These werent 40th options btw.. just options)

Well seeing as those settings cost me money... Plus every car is different, so they wont be much use to you.

Sorry i didnt mean fuelling i meant airflow It was tuned on a dyno as stated, so yes there was a wideband present And Status, x2, that was interesting. Need to get me that G4! Harey - Your in Raro? Theres no sun??

Ok sweet so its relatively normal with the stock ecu The SAFC cost me $250NZD and i installed it myself. Tune was done by a friend of a friend who has a Dynapack at his house. Cost $300NZD. We played around with it for a goo 4+ hours trying different timing and fuelling so it was worth the cost for me. The plan is to get a G4 in the future to cover any sillyness that might occur I'd have one now, but i had to decide between whether making the mrs hate me or having a mint running car. So ill have 5 days of sun on the beach ir Rarotonga to dream about what could have been LOL!

Before you all jump on the band wagon and get upset about the numbers, for me the peak is irrelevant. So lets pretend its normal and just look at the lines. As RB25DET's on our dynapack hub dynos give more or less similar readings. One more thing to point out, it was run in 3rd gear because it was hitting speed cut. Both the lower, and upper were run in third, and the torque works out to be around 353nm So what im wanting to know, is what is the flat spot in the curve? And the drop in the curve on the lower line? The upper line is after a light SAFC2 tune and about 5" advance across the whole rev range. So there was a definite improvement from around 4200rpm up, and it improved the dip.. if you can call it that. Would this be the AFM maxing out? or could it be something else? Mods are Stock turbo running R32 actuator boost. 3.75inch Turbo back FMIC Apexi Pod ( lower line had stock airbox and Apexi Panel so more proof pods do jack shit ) Any ideas would be nice. Thanks!

In regards to those two bolts, just be careful how much extra tension you put on them. I did mine a few months back and it ended up being a little too too tight and split, and popped the roller ball out of the mechanism. New regulator is the only fix for this Do it a little at a time and keep checking before you put the trims back in place!

Im about to go for a drive iin my R33 so i can take a pic for ya and post it here later on tonight/tomorrow morn

You'd also have to ask how many times do you plan on removing your turbos? If it aint broke, dont fix!

Cant be keen on selling them.. still no pics?

Lol. Shame they dont show trap speeds etc. The gap at 200m was .4 and the gap at 400m was .1, clearly it was catching up. Those videos hardly do justice for what its really like though. Probly helps that that was a BZR too.. 6speed acceleration.

Its only a water oil cooler between the block and oil filter. Thought Skylines had them too?

Id agree with that. Personally i think the stock BOV sounds like a sack of crap with a pod filter. But thats just me. I stuck to the stock airbox for a while because of it. But even with the stock airbox, it still sounds pretty horrible. I came accross a brand new Genuine GReddy RS for a ridiculous price. Thats the only reason i bought it. Im quite fond of the sound and managed to tune the richness more or less out of it. Flutters a bit with low rpm, but nothing to worry about.

3-4 car lengths from 0-100 is a f**king massive lead! LOL! Its only two gears. But dont start the 20v vs VTEC. Its just not worth it. 20v = rubbish. Needs a fair bit of modding to even match up to a stock B16a. Let alone a B16b and B18c

Depends on where/when your talking about for being slow in a straight line. My current R33 GTS25t 13.7 @ 105mph (10psi, Turboback exhaust, stock intake) my old Integra Type R 13.7 @ 100mph (I/H/E) To be fair, the ITR was using some old RA1's. But id say that the 255 Adrenalins on the Skyline would be a close to fair match for a pair of old hard shot RA1's. So the Skyline, although not as quick off the line took the entire 1/4 mile to gain any ground on the ITR. Bugger all in it really. The argument could go around in circles forever to be honest. Its just a fact that most people hate Hondas with no real reason for it.

And you think Skylines have a good image?

A GTR wouldnt be all that great without its FWD. Iv owned an DC2 Type R. Seen this thread a million times before. Its pointless arguing because of people that just dont like hondas. They dont have any reason for it, its just what they think. Built for different things.

Personally i dont think shifting your number plate is going to help a great deal. Mine used to be like this: It didnt really bother me because the cold side was always freezing cold. But on the track etc id still remove it for a bit of extra cool. Now, i have just bolted it to the same bracket, but raised it and bolted it at the bottom instead. It'd still be covering more than yours id say.

Ditching the stock AFM. Running an aftermarket ECU.

Id say so. Mine was doing it a little bit the other morning driving for a tune. Really cold morning.

Rich and Retard

hoooolyyyyy shiiiiiittt

Its probly RnR. Seeing it was very cold. AFM maxxing out.

Of course I just figure people need to make up their own minds in the end.

That doesnt mean they are any good. They appear to have the best flow characteristics, but lack the filtration. They are just a piece of green foam haha. Japs are like americans, Name means everytihng Each to their own i guess. I read it on the internet they are crap. So it must be true!

Im 10 pages in and still reading.. ahahahaha edit: ughh i got right through it. I wish my GF would come home. Clearly she needs to.