gotRICE?

No problem. I had a play with it before handing it over to Lithium on these forums. Its rock solid. Almost impossible to open it by hand So should hold your 18psi dead. Hes sposed to be getting it put on his GT3076R very soon. Could get in touch and take a look at his boost control results. Either way, GL!

$450 plus freight? Who are you getting them from? Thats insane. I mentioned before that i got one from the USA for about $50 or so USD. Ill try find the supplier. Here, i found it: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...;Category_Code=

Never had any problems with Nengun.. just the same as everyone else. They do take their time. Only difference for me was that i ordered parts while i was in the USA, a month or so before i was due home. Nice presents waiting, or arriving apon my return. So never noticed it too much. Def sounds like a AU Post issue. It should go back to the local carriers warehouse for a Saturday delivery (or whatever their policy is), or pickup. I always thought they waited a week or two before returning to sender.

Ohhh snap!

Itd be good if the list actually had a WRX in it seeing as it was the question.. bet still fun to read.

Its like mentioned above, it will start to creep open slightly as it nears the psi of the actuator spring, causing it to drop off a little as the revs get up there. But if the last couple are controlled by the ebc, the wastegate will stay tightly shut

Basically the wastegate wont open untill the set PSI, for your example, 10psi.. as you know The EBC will be fitted between the boost source and the actuator, and wont let the actuator see the 10psi, and will bleed off air, therefore the wastegate wont open, allowing the turbo to create more boost. It could probly be explained better, im noob. But, you COULD just by a pair of 18psi Actuators. The work extremely well. I brought one back for a friend from the USA, a Garret item i think, was abour $50usd for a single one. But of course there was no shipping involved. The have a large can on them and are very tight. So hold the wastegate shut hard and dont creep open

Just tape them up and cable tie away nicely.. Or, if you CBF i think you can pull them up into the boot through the big ass grommet there.

Only 32's. Youd know if you had to loop anything!

Its a case of trial and error for Skyline brakes im afraid. I couldnt tell you how many times i tried to get mine to stop squeaking, and failed. Even with stock pads. Tried EVERYTHING and eventually, they squeaked again.. Skimmed rotors, shims Ferodos.. New Rotors, shims stock pads + brake squeak stop New Rotors, no shims squeak stop... and so on and so forth. Finally, what worked for me, was getting slotted rotors. Have had them on the track, and 100's of km of town driving and have not heard a peep from them since. This is with Ferodo Formula pads, and NO squeak shims. I think the squeak was more to do with pad glazing in my case. And the slotted rotors are keeping the surface clean. Well thats my theory anyway

Then you need to wait for the VCT to do its thing for that little bit "extra" if thats what you call it

Hmm sounds to me like a dodgy AFM. If it starts and idles mint without the AFM plugged in id say that would be the case. Itd be wise to see if some nice person will let you borrow one. I know a dude that bought a 2nd hand AFM, same problem, then bought a OEM Nissan brand new for $600... same problem. Was a faulty earth in the ECU. I tried to lend him mine, but he was confident it was the AFM haha,

Was the radiator replaced under insurance or just by you? Because in theory if its insurance, it should have been cleaned anyway, or a new one.

I was one of those Stock turbo'd R33 owners that has had the pleasure of multiple playtimes with Lithiums car, so will try give you my experiences. 1st time i drove it on the street, i was relatively nana for a while getting the feel of things, then once roads were clear etc had a good stab at it, and when your just out for a blat, it feels just as good (maybe a few 100rpm short) of the stock huffer at similar rpm. On the open road and/or highways, my 1st impression was it felt a little "doughey" as Lith put it. As in, if you were in slightly heavier traffic, sitting at 80-100km/h in 5th, and wanted to take the gap in the right lane you spotted in your mirror. It felt to me like it wasnt going to get you there quick enough. So there were a few moments where i hesitated and didnt go for it. There was discussion at this point, and Lith mentioned not having any problems doing the same thing so i had a little test in the slow lane. And to my surprise it does just 'go' when you lean on it. A tad more throttle than i would give mine, but it still works. The problem i think i was having was that i was expecting response like the stock turbo would give at that point, and see lots off boost, quick. Clearly with the bigger turbo it doesnt do it quite as rapid, but the car still does go for it. And being a bigger turbo, that 'kick' it gives, comes later because of where its starts to really ramp up. And as we know, the stock turbos kick has well gone by 3500rpm. So once i had felt what it would do it was not a problem to drive. Driving around town its actually pretty nice too. Not constantly making boost where ever and when ever, BUT, if you want it, it is just hiding a cm or so further into the pedal. The other tests, or more f**king around, was swapping cars at the last drag meet. Both on street tires. Both no practice in each others cars. Lith got off to a blinding start, and me, still trying to figure out whether Liths "4000rpm and dump it or youl' bog" madness would work (clearly im still thinking stock turbos reaction), bogged only made 3500rpm... Oops. Got back in it quick though. Made the boost through 1st, no skids. Missed 2nd (doh! not used to the puk), and ended up sailing past my own car as if it was standing still in 4th across the line. Was probly one of the closest and most exciting races of the day for me. I think these situations are quite difficult to describe accurately over a forum TBH. Its def one of those things you need to try. Am quite keen for another swapsydaisy after mine is tuned this month too Lith

Any reason why the placement of the fins are wierd? Like, they arent all symmetrical, group of 4, a group of 3, etc..

Theres been alot of odd questions from '1st Post' members this week

Totally normal. Just kidding dude. Maybe the studs are broken so they arent staying tight? Best thing to do would be to find new ones and just put them on tight.... tight tight. Maybe even some threadlocker?

Your battery is f**ked if its going flat in a week

If the heater core was leaking it wouldnt smell like cats piss, hot coolant smells fruity.

Your kidding right? An Integra would be quicker than a stock WRX.

You can get non-genuine pumps that have the proper holes. That arent expensive at all.

Id either look for some stock ones, or get something made up. Turbo will be greatly hotter than 150'c.

It should be higher when cold

Could just take it to a brake shop and get them to vacume change the fluid Saves so much hassle haha. Yeah im getting lazy...

my bad, forget that this is an "International" site Its a company... hmm how would you describe it.. its just a Trade Automotive store in NZ. I guess thats the best way to put it.