gotRICE?

Of course. I wasnt trying to undermine anyones skills/experience at all. I just think its a bit excessive thinking if it sprung a leak youd have instant catastrophic engine failure.

If the bellhousing is full of oil then yeah its possible its getting on the clutch plate and causing it to slip. Stock clutch should be ok with an uprated pressure plate if you dont want to spend lots.

What ECU? Not having it mapped cant be helping? How much boost? I would have thought with a strong spark youd be better off running 1.1 gap. What about AFM? Tried a friends? Clean it? Plug connected ok?

Apexi.com Click USA Click Support All the info is in the PDF.

SECURITY saved my life with the same situation! Stock RB25, catch can setup with blocked PCV, would smoke just after start up when i took off from lights, and came to a stop. Reconnected PCV, never seen another whiff Defiantly never blocking the PCV again.

Tools are what you use to fix stuff. I realise they are under pressure im not completely retarded, or how else would it work? The oil pressure lines are TINY. And IF it sprung a leak, you would know very quickly because of the stench in the cabin. The line is so small that you would need to drive around for sooo long for it to drain a 5L sump. I mean shit, a mate of mine in his V6 VR4 sun over a pice of 4x2 and smashed the corner of his sump off. Didnt even know. Drove a good 3km at full noise after that. Only noticed the leak in the morning because the gutter was full of oil. You Aussies are so quick to snap! Its incredible.

Get the Blitz from Just Jap. Cheapest option, still "branded".. not that it really matters in this case. They are all the same. You could even get one made to the exact specs for less probly.

That is seriously wierd.. especially as those Coupe's only came with a D15 SOHC VTEC LOL! Not like its anything special.

Generally they use it for Hondas because there is a fair difference between the JDM/USDM/NZDM/ADM versions. The JDM being the better of the lot. For example, a USDM Integra Type R doesnt even have Recaro seats, just shitty Integra seats with Red stitching. Older generation Cam covers etc. And the Japanese facelift DC2 was the only Integra that didnt have the twin Oo oO Headlights. And the JDM engines generally come with around 10hp more because of tune etc. But, everyone is still correct, most people just throw it out there to try make their car sound like its better than another.

I kinda lol'd too. The oil doesnt actually flow around, it just goes into the line and pressurizes as far as i can tell hahaha. And its such a puny ass line that it would have to be leaking for an effing long time for it to case any damage to the engine. You would also smell it rather quickly. Id say that the half moons and rocker covers leak just as much haha.

I get sick of hearing that. Clearly an aftermarket standalone is better. But for a quick tidy up a piggy back is ideal. SAFC2, picked mine up for $250, and an hours dyno hire @ $100. Give me a standalone, tuned for $350 and ill take it all back. Any respectable tuner should be able to fully dyno tune a SAFC in under an hour. They are very basic. Dont forget not everyone has alot of money to spend on a standalone, that costs alot more outright, not to mention the tune costing near as much as the ecu itself. That and also not everyone intends on going the whole hog and actually require anything more. Personally, i dont think $2000+ for bit of midrange is what id call bang for buck.

Mine doesnt work either and vibrates when you drive making the vision blurry.. if you figure it out let me knwo!

Changing the oil filter on a diesel engine is almost more important than doing so on a petrol engine. Best way to maintain a diesel engine is regular oil changes. Because that stuff gets nasty dirty, even a drive around the block after a fresh change and the stuff will be filth again. So YES, change the oil filter.

I was going to say something similar. I had my R33 tuned with an SAFC2. 3' turbo back, FMIC etc. It peaked with 1rkwk more than before, but 4-500rpm lower, but the mid range increase was fantastic. Economy was improved a far amount too. Just remember, peak power doesnt mean alot as dynos vary too much. It just depends on how well it drives for a "170rwkw" or a "200rwkw" Skyline. Post up some before/after plots though. Would be nice to compare.

I just find it interesting you track a car with subs in the boot

You should be hitting 10psi before 3000rpm with the mod

If you have a turbo back exhaust and an FMIC then yeah its about right.

I actually think your referring to a cat temp sensor, rather than an "exhaust temp" sensor. Every car i have had has it, and its actually there more to tell you that your cat is f**ked/blocked. Because the cat catches all the nasties, over time it clogs up and causes restrictions. And the restriction will obviously create alot more heat than normal because your forcing the same amount of exhaust through a more restricted area. If the cat is in good working order, or not there at all (decat), you shouldnt ever see the temp light on the dash come on at all, even on the track.

Kaching! Lol! My bet would be that if you looked under the car at that thing while a mate pressed the exhaust switch it might move It kinda looks similar to an actuator of sorts. And if it was for the factory muffler then it would open/close something inside.

Maybe it leaks backwards

Here ya go buddy, did me wonders. http://www.apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6119.pdf

That or you could replace/tee into the factory one. ( i cant remember if the gauge pressure sensor is the same as the "your f**ked" pressure sensor that activates the oil light when your pretty much toast) Pay to find that out 1st. And thread tape isnt ideal for oil components. Manufacturers of decent quality fittings and lines will tell you to stay the fudge away from tape! Thread sealant should work just fine.

I think the pollution part is actually the oil vapors that get shit out the bov with the compressed air. Not that i care, as either way it goes into the air Either burnt, or unburnt.. lol.

You will hate the guy i met last week then! His little sister just got bought her 1st car for her 16th birthday. It happened to be an R35 GTR. My list of fun times and age i was at the time. 1 - 1986 Corolla 1.3 Carby (15) Traded for Mitsi 2 - 1988 Mitsi Mirage Cyborg, Sold 3 - 1985 Corolla GT Sold 4 - 1991 Integra 1600 VTEC (16) Sold 5 - 1992 Prelude 2.2 VTEC, Car heaven 6 - 1997 Integra Type R (more tracked than streeted) (18) Sold 7 - 1995 Toyota Hiace (daily for the track ITR) Turned into USA trip 8 - 1998 R33 GTSt (23) Current

I realise you said your learning, but what exactly would you call high compression? VTEC hondas have relatively high compression, and a friend of mines 1800 Civic makes 317fwkw on 17psi. Compression is still 10.5-1.