gotRICE?

i can 100% Confirm that STi Yellow Top injectors fit with no mods to the seat/collar. Just wiring.

He said it "might" have a chip? Did he look or just guess?

Triple check all the wiring. Somethings messed up. Also check the huge plug that goes in the ECU. Might not be quite in properly.

Deleted. Decided i cant be bothered.

Ill put a pint on an exhaust gasket. Manifold, or turbo-dump.

You know, i always thought that fog lights werent actually so see in fog, it was actually for others to be able to see YOU in fog, without blinding the living crap out of them. And also, thats usually why real front fog lamps are yellow. Less glare.

Id be wary of any "Stock" Skyline thats had a boost controller in it. Especially if its been cut into the dash. And that it has a bent rim from 'clipping' a curb. It sounds to me like #1 doesnt care much, and has probly wound the boost up to see what its like. It just seems odd to me to cut holes in a dash to install a controller, lol it could go anywhere. #2 is entirely possible for cars to get filthy even in a garage. I depends on the garage really. But sounds like its a tad more on the safe side. But it does seem wierd that he didnt take the time to run a hose over it especially if its for sale.

R35 looks soooo boring to drive compared to the S15 and 7! Nothings going on noise wise haha. No spool, no pigeon..

Its def a fog light. Alot/most/all of the Euro cars have them, and to be fair, they are f**king annoying to be following during the night. Especially if your driving a long distance, its like staring into a laser pointer. I can understand that the majority of people dont have any idea they are on, nor would have any idea its there. so getting pulled up and told about it would be better than getting slapped with a ticket.

It could be a 4ws electronic lock ecu? Where do the wires go? Hard to see.

Wow, Australian has some ass requirements for jap cars! Pretty sure the thing beeps at you same as the headlights doesnt it? Because it switches the park lights on too. Well, does in mine anyway and i dont have fog lights! The switch just turns on the parkers.

hmm.. take a pic

^^ Looks like its a compliance thing as theres no way thats factory! Looks like shit! Toyota Hiace's have a timing belt light, it flicks on every 100,000km, and to reset it, you take the cluster out and move a small screw from one hole to another, re-setting the timer for another 100,000km... moving the screw back again when it clicks ANOTHER 100K and so on.......

THe ECU in the boot is the 4WS ECU.

you probly THINK it runs kick ass because your boosting '14psi bro'. But its probly not. Its just fact.

Id say that with 275rwkw you wouldnt need to change calipers. R33 GTSt's OMHO are quite over-braked from factory. Even TT Supras dont have twin piston rear calipers. I changed my brakes in a wierd way. Like, changing things to see/feel the difference each time to see what was working the best. Just started tracking the car with the stock setup and some 'race' pads, and upgraded fluid. (RBF 600 i think). Didnt get fade as such, but just decreased braking ofter a few laps. Warped the rotors in the end, so changed to some Zonellis. The increase in stopping power and bite was un-believable. Stayed with the same pads, and flud. I couldnt believe the change. And the pads arent even hard core race pads. At one stage i thought i got fade, so i pressed the pedal harder and almost hit the windscreen lol. I was braking later from 200km/h on street tires, than an EF Civic on semi-slicks. Another cheaper option for more stoppage would be a big rotor kit. There are places that make an adaptor kit for a 320mm rotor with the stock caliper. A great way to better the stop power is by moving the bite further out. Depend on what your into i guess in the end So i can stil get better pads, braided lines and better fluid before attempting lager rotors and/or calipers. Maybe even a master cylinder brace. So much to do for so much less $! Thought id add my 2c. I just hate seeing people throw money at something when its not really needed! Could be better spent ya know?

It says in the 1st line he wants the hoses for under the plenum. Im pretty sure someone asked this a little while ago and the GTR ones arent quite right.

You shouldnt need to use teflon tape on an oil cooler at all. If you buy the cheap crap then yeah it might leak. But seriously the decent aeroquip or Mocal fittings are ideal. They wont leak, and Mocal even say not to touch their fittings with tape. I pieced my own together from a US site, ended up with a Mocal setup with Aeroquip re-useable fittings. I didnt get the thermostat version as i opted for a smaller 13 row core. I dont track the car regularly. And my oil temps are just fine on the street and track with it full flow. If it gets a little warmer than is ideal i can always upgrade the core size easily. The setup cost me around $350USD. and i got 8 feet of hose. So at the current exchange, its a pretty good price. Yes i know they got a little munched But theyre not easy to get to! Plus you dont see them. ) Expect to make a custom spanner for those! Haha. And personally i dont think an RB25 is hard to change the filter, so decided relocation was a waste of $ for the extra 4 fittings etc that i would need. No leaks, no fuss. Unlike some mates that got the kits that come with gold fittings etc. They leaked alot and needed tape. And i think mine ended up costing a little less too. And as you can see i did have to change one fitting. At the time of purchase i was in the USA and had to guess from photos about what angles id need. Since the install a good 80% of the hose has been covered in that black plastic loom cover stuff. Just incase it rubs on anything, as the stainless braid is actually pretty weak if its touching anything metal. just the important parts are uncovered

Its a boost solenoid. It switches from 5psi to 7psi after a set RPM, think its 4500.

I did it not long ago. Just disconnect the battery, lock it up, put the car cover over it and walk away. When you get back, connect it up, and crank it over. I had instant oil pressure, and the battery was sweet too. Some people get paranoid about the oil.

What you should do now, is take the plate out and try again. Changing two thing isnt the best idea, its better to do one at a time. But glad to hear its fixed! I would def try removing the plate 1st and leave everything how it is. I have a 3" turbo back, the dump pipe is custom and is massive. No cat, and HKS cat back. There would be sweet FA backpressure there. I use an R32 10psi actuator and dont have problems. So i would guess that your exhaust isnt actually the issue.

Perfect! Cheers

Hmm.. i just tried it in Explorer (didnt know i still had it.. dont like it) and it gives you the play/stop/pause options. Must be a firefox thing?

Yo, its a Dell, Centrino 2 blah blah, a bagillion gig of ram, and using firefox. So i tried it again, i click the "New URL" link, it opens the web page with the videos on it, and just starts playing stage 1 through 5 for the R34, and when scrolling down they are all playing (with the audio overlapping) and the further down the page i scroll it starts to blurr out when it gets to R33.. ill try screen shot it haha. Here, so this seem a little odd? No play options etc.. it just goes for gold! Anyone else? or am i just very special?

Umm.. is it just me, or do all the videos play at the same time when i click that