gotRICE?

I got mine off an NA R34 i think when i replaced mine in my R33. Was like $10. So try a Wrecker. Would have thought that would be the obvious choice? I tried a few different hoses on it and they all tend to collapse under vac when they warm up.

Ill do it! Perfect. Fun fun.

So.. what your saying is that you DONT want to cut anything, but if you have to, you will cut two things? Sounds like a cop out to me Pretty much every decent sized FMIC need the reo trimmed slightly. Its just the way they are.

sounds a little like RnR to me

From underneath? Indicators maybe but parkers? nooo. Best way is to unbolt and move the coolant bottle, fusebox and washer bottle for the drivers. Sounds alot, but seriously it will save you grief. There is a little hole in the corner that has a plug. Give it a twist and it will undo. It needs to be a HARD twist as they jam a little. I found long nose pliers easiest. Same on passenger side, but various other objects to navigate.

Mr Lith0r. We will discuss this further... Oh wait.. we did. Using the stock snorkel right?

BLITZ! Its a no brainer. Seriously, it will be so much more worth it in the long run

If you shield the pod, you will generally run a cold air intake to it.... But if you run a stock SMIC or a return flow SMIC then you cant. So dont.

This is my guess too. There is absolutely no reason why it should keep rising if you have set it up correctly. But if the wastegate isnt opening properly then it will creep. When i was still using the stock dump pipe it would hit 10psi and not budge from 2500rpm till redline. But when i put on my custom HKS dump/front pipe, it would hit 10psi, spike for a split second to 11, then hold steady again. Free flow FTW.

No

$1400! Woooah. I got mine for $1000ishNZD delivered from Nengun last year. Id settle for the "shiny" Blitz if it was around then for this price!

Is there a particular pin you are looking for? The APEXi SAFC2 diagrams show a few, AFM, REV, Throttle etc, but if your after something else.. I guess a workshop manual would be key.

Looks to me like its got vac hoses coming out one side and plugged in to a factory loom? Could be some sort of boost controller. Cos you can see that your factory boost solenoid is unplugged, and the lines have been cut. That would be my guess. EDIT then i noticed the blue thing that says "Dual Stage Boost Controller" So im at a loss Unplug it and see what happens. haha

Dude that looks nice. I just spent the last 3 months in NJ and do you think i could spot any Skylines? Not one! I was mainly in the Manalapan/Malboro area off Route9, but spent many hours travelling up and down the Parkway working. Eyes peeled constantly. Nothing!

You'd probly find that the motor is cooler after a 2hour drive @ 100km/h than it would be nipping around town

Im going to keep running on street tyres untill its ultimately clear that i cant get anything more out of it. Did a few 13.7's @ 99-100mph in my R33, but since then i have replaced the stock dump pipe with a custom :as big as will fit" jobbie, and had a road tune VIA SAFC2. Still running stock airbox with APEXi Panel filter. Seems to work just fine for me too.

Here, i know how hard it is sometimes with describing how to route a line on the internet, so hope this helps. This is Exactly how MY R33 is set up with an R32 actuator. No Solenoids, bleed valves or EBC's. Straight actuator boost. Everyone loves a good paint jig

Lithiums is a 4" stainless pipe custom made AFAIK, but he is not using AFM. And i also believe he has a spacer between the manifold and turbo, so yeah id say longer studs would be a go. Best bet would be to PM him. He loves to talk Turbo

Take ALL the factory vac lines off. take the 'T' piece out too. Run ONE line from the intercooler piping to the actuator. And Put a blank over the hole where the 3rd line would have gone on the intake pipe. Done.

I couldnt answer that to be honest, but a mate was using one running 280rwkw and it wasnt hindering anything. If chinese cores are capable of hadling 300+rwkw. Id say the Blitz should be able to handle alot more, but im sure someone can answer that better. Any FMIC can look good. Its all about the fitment. I messed mine up slightly and it bugs me every day.

Here ya go: And nah, you cant see the pipe underneath. Top notch! Only reason you can see the return on the last pic, is because i messed up a cut But meh. Whatever! Paint it black one day!

The factory boost gauge is electronic, there is no boost line under the dash. But you can unplug the factory gauge from the plenum and use the nipple there to take your reading.

Kinda dangerous.. but whatever works. I know its factory nissan, i have one too. They just arent as common as the regular one is what i meant. Look SOO much better in Purple than Silver, like mine!

I have pics of the install of my Blitz LM if thats what you were after?

Interesting you say that, as my mate has one in his Evo8 and his is the same. Has to wait for it to time out before he locks it. Kinda defeats the purpose huh? It could be a function on the alarm that needs to be adjusted. Some of them have a turbo timer feature, but it could be turned off. Find your manual. We had to turn the car on and off in a certain sequence to activate the turbo timer "allow" function. Unfortunately it didnt work But im guessing that is because the timer wasnt actually connected in conjunction with the alarm? I dont know.