gotRICE?

Im not sure if its venting he is worried about, more the oil drainage from the head?

Couldnt agree with you more. The day just gets scary and un-enjoyable when you find the car isnt stopping when you want it to. And the more you try thw worse it gets. Untill that one time... I use Motul RBF 600 in my R33, and it hasnt let me down yet, even with "sport" Ferodo's on there. Have been meaning to get something a little heavier for the track.

Iv had my 33 for 2 years now, and i still cant find enough excuses to go flog it through the mountains. I think its a shame all the beautiful cars that are locked away and driven for 50km a month

I think it depends on the type of air con refrigerant. The old stuff is bad, but im pretty sure the new stuff is ok for the environment.

Its a hell of a price thats for sure! Especially seeing how much i paid for my Blitz LM... Still, not overly keen on shiny front mounts. But i bet it looks good. Havnt been able to find any photos yet!

Whats the diff from the CS to the LM? Is it just that the CS is shiny?

Looks amazing! Great to see another R33 with that non-run-of-the-mill front bumper on it I love mine! How do you get around not having front indicators? Might cause a bit of mess if someone doesnt see the side ones!

Although, it could have been over tightened. I think if you over do it the seal can tear. Oil leaks huh. Pain. I think one of my rocker covers sprung a leak recently

I would say the best idea for a start would be to look for the leak.

zebra, LOL You cant compare an EG Civic that has a K20 conversion in it to an R33 GTSt! Thats around 160fwkw in a car that weighs 1000kg. MBS206, your right, I cant drive.

OK i get the hint.. im on my way Lets test the theory at Marsden Airstrip.

I cant tell the difference between Mobil Synergy 8000 and BP Ultimate in my Skyline. I just use Mobil cos i like the smell.

Is the cap on tight

To be honest, i really didnt FEEL alot of difference when i installed my SMIC. (i got mine for an amazing price too, so did it just cos..) But in saying that, my front bumper is a factory option that is kinda like a baby version of the GTR bumper. And the airflow to the SMIC is very limited. So even with the R34 SMIC mine got ridiculously hot and heatsoaked. So not overly fair to compare to others. As you see, the only airflow is past the indicator, and its a very VERY small amount. Hence opting for a Blitz LM FMIC a little later.. also due to the trackwork ahead. If i was you, id go for an R32 Actuator to run 10psi boost No messing around with bleed valves and controllers. Another straight bolt on for fantastic performance gains. Removes the R33 solenoid completely. Unplug it, unbolt the R33 7psi actuator, bolt on the R32, and away you got with a safe steady 10psi!

E DRAGS! Roaar!

Nothing needs to be modified to make it fit, its a straight swap. Easiest way to put it in is to jack up the front, pull off the left front wheel and take off the inner guard. A few black clips floating around to undo and it will come out. I ended up pulling off the front bumper when i did mine, but its a little bit extreme. I never thought of just pulling the inner guard. The only thing you will probly need to do is replace the clips that clip the inner guard to the bumper with cable ties. The R34 SMIC is taller than the R33 and sticks down a few cm lower, so the inner guard is kinda put under pressure, and mine with the standard clips, the clips popped, causing the inner guard to rub against the wheel. = smoke and melted plastic And RE Turbo, 10psi is a pretty safe level to run all day in an R33. So i wouldnt worry about the turbo falling apart. Most people say 12psi is ok, but 10psi is recommended if you want to be safer. But in saying that, some peoples turbos have gone at 7psi, some are still holding on at 14... Its luck. Mines been on 10psi for about 12 months now, drag days, and 3 track days its still seems to be fine. Just on the track i tend not to push it for more than 2 hot laps before a cooldown. Even saying that on the back straight im generally not at full throttle and only rev to around 6500. Piece of mind on my part

Its definitely a good idea if your going to track the car. Piece your own together from quality parts. Some of the off the shelf cheap kits, although come with everything tend to have leaky fittings without thread tape. Not really ideal for an oil system. It works out pretty cheap making your own. I just did my own cooler setup as follows Mocal 13row core with -10AN fittings Mocal oil cooler adaptor sandwich plate Aeroquip fittings 2x straight 1x 90' and 1x 180' Approx 8 feet of braided line to be on the safe side. Aeroquip and Mocal both say stay away from thread tape with their fittings. So i do what they say. All up it cost me around the $300USD mark. So its pretty close to the cheap china kits, but proven, guaranteed quality. Power steering cooler would be the absolute last thing i would do, and then only if i had money that i wanted to throw away.

Oh right. Umm, i would have thought any performance shop could probly make something up for you? Personally i have never had lines made either so wouldnt know where to start looking But theres hundreds of custom cars on here, someone must be able to help.. R31??

Just a quick question for anyone that has installed an oil cooler between their FMIC and air con/radiator. Is the only place for the lines to go through to the engine bay here: Or is there another location behind the headlight, or somewhere like that closer to where the core is mounted? (Pics courtesy of ssxRicho.. thanks dude) Just looking for ideas, as there seems to be not one picture online of the front mounted Trust/Greddy/HKS systems for either R33 GTR or GTSt during install. And i dont want to be short of line when i attempt to route my lines I have around 8 feet, im guessing that should be plenty. EDIT: What do you know. After hours of searching for the oil cooler install, i find this randomly looking at old DIY's. So i guess that answers the question, unless your keen to jam two 10AN lines through the small wiring hole.. ha.

Im guessing not. It wouldnt be worth the hassle, you'd be much better off fitting an aftermarket LSD.

Im not sure if its the hot coolant that you need to be worried about Its the heat from the exhaust housing thats going to cause you problems. I dont see why you couldnt take the turbo in to a shop and get them to make up a new braided line for it? Better be safe than sorry right? Cos where that line is, you might not even realise its burst/melted while driving, and then your turbo doenst have cooling... you know where im going....

But to answer your question, other than the hole for the cold pipe, the Reo bar needs to be trimmed, and so does the front bumper. The only way around it, is by getting an R34 side mount. Or, i hear the ARC return flow FMIC doesnt require cutting. But they are very pricey. Other than that, your options for minimal cuts are the Blitz LM (perfect fitment, easy to install, have one myself) or the JJR stealth. Cheaper option, but require a little fiddling to fit.

Ooh. I also midread the OP. DC5.. and he mentioned Type S. Bah, no comparison. Type S suck balls

Lith, surprised you havnt mentioned mine. We discussed this exact topic last night kinda..? I owned both, a DC2 Integra Type R, and now a 98 R33 GTS25t. And for the purpose of the topic, they were both on the same dyno, but NZ seem to have higher peak output than your Aussie dynos. So take the power as you will. At the drags, my ITR did a 13.8 @ 100mph with semi slicks. (133fwkw) I/H/E stripped interior. My R33 on street tires, (209rwkw), Stock airbox, stock dump, 3" front pipe back, r32 actuator and full interior 13.7 @ 101mph. So if you bring them to the same level of modification then the Skyline will still have the edge. 60 foot times werent close, the ITR had it with no trouble. But the Skyline reels it in and still wins. Stick some semis on the Skyline, and im sure it will out launch, and kill it the whole way down. And lets not forget our little race Lith0r.. we were more or less side by side 1st and 2nd, then your R33 started to pull away. No questions asked. Although yours didnt have the stock turbo, but a laggier version, it was still convincing once it got moving. In the end. Different cars. Type R Civics/Integras arent drag cars. They are built as a streetable track weapon. And properly dirven will Rape an R33 on the track. I know 33's arent drag cars either, but they have the power to push them in a straight line. Tell your mate your convinced he will win. Put money on it. Profit.

Wierd huh? I havnt been able to find anyone that can tell me WTF the reason fr putting it there on the 98's was. Maybe something to do with the R34? As i hear some parts of the 98 33s are shared with the 34, or vice verca. Maybe something to do with TCS maybe.. *shrugs* EDIT: Im wrong Just found this, and its R34 NEO. And has no nipple... So now im confused ha