
gotRICE?
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Everything posted by gotRICE?
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Cooler Setups That Need No Holes Cut Etc
gotRICE? replied to bradshaw's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Its a tricky one. If your that worried stick to the SMIC. I tried really hard when fitting my Blitz LM to have the REO cuts as neat as possible. When you look at the REO on its own its pretty obvious: But after a little file up and a few coats of black paint, when you look at it from under the car you wouldnt even know its been cut at a glance. I mean clearly you can see its been cut. But when your under the car its cramped up in there etc. So a quick look and its not overly noticeable. -
Quick Question Regarding Turbo Blanket & Heatshield
gotRICE? replied to Mayuri Krab's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Duh. Theres a photo at the top! Stainless.. haha. Should be fine. My old Split stainless smelt a bit and had a bit of white smoke coming from it for a day or so. -
Quick Question Regarding Turbo Blanket & Heatshield
gotRICE? replied to Mayuri Krab's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Is the exhaust stainless or mild steel? If its steel, sometimes they paint them with heat paint and that smells a bit for a few days till it cures with the heat. And sometimes stainless does have a random oil on it and it smokes a bit the 1st few times too. Youl be all good! -
Genuine Nissan thermostat shouldnt cost you any more than $30. Theres nothing wrong with the non-genuine either, but for piece of mine i still use OEM parts for important things like that.
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B16a 160HP B16a2 170HP
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Best bet would be to do a coolant flush and new OEM thermostat. Sounds like its sticking. Next id be getting the radiator core checked out. But start of cheap to expensive Does your overflow have coolant in it? Could also be a dodgy Radiator cap.
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Quick Question Regarding Turbo Blanket & Heatshield
gotRICE? replied to Mayuri Krab's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The Shield will definately fit so put that back on. I read that turbo beanies on street cars arent ideal and can be a fire risk too. I gave the stock heat shields a squirt with some flame proom black paint. Look great. I did the Actuator too ha. -
R34 - Waterpump/flow Issue. Car Overheats On Idle! :o
gotRICE? replied to illusiVe's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
THere is a brass bolt that says "dont open when hot" or something. Its right on top and the front. Cant miss it! -
R34 - Waterpump/flow Issue. Car Overheats On Idle! :o
gotRICE? replied to illusiVe's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Sounds like the Radiator is blocked. Actually, it seems obvious. If you have changed everything bar the radiator and its still doing it... PS Nismo thermostat is only causing you more harm than good. -
You got me
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Dont worry about the battery dying. You have two remotes It hardly ever happens unless your really forgetful. And if it does, call your friend/mom/girlfriend and get her to brin the spare. And if your really clever, call her on your cellphone. Put your cellphone close as you can to where the alarm module is mounted and get her to press the unlock button into the Mic of her cellphone. Sounds silly? Try it EDIT: I just clicked.. car battery not remote battery... ahaha. Yeah i guess the car battery dying would be a pain. But calling an auto locksmith isnt that bad. They get in in a few seconds without doing any damage. And you can always hook the bonnet release wire and pop the bonnet. (Mate locked his keys in the car with it running... epic LOL)
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Pics Of My Motor Build:
gotRICE? replied to ctnewman's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Amazing! Im sure you will as it seems you miss nothing. But im assuming your going to clamp that hose on the right away somewhere? Itl rub through in a matter of weeks sitting on that seam in the bodywork! (Pic of lines under Turbo compressor by the "M24" casting) -
Yeah sorry i was more meaning the actually mounting of the cooler and/or piping. Fitting my Blitz still took a long time trimming the bumper and REO. But Im 99% confident there isnt many that dont.. Possibly the ARC doesnt? Its a tad smaller overall than the Blitz. (Return piping FMIC's anyway)
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Thats your problem, that they have been removed before. There will be a gap in the sticky stuff somewhere id say. I hate it that Nissan use that shit. Makes it an absolute pain in the ass to remove the tail lights. I had a similar issue on my ITR. But they use a rubber gasket that gets brittle and leaks. I did this: Its a product by "Sellotape" called "Inseal". Works a treat, never leaked again. Single sided sticky foam tape that when compressed makes a watertight seal. Just need to clean off the gunk and figure out where the light contacts the body and put it on. Making sure the join is at the bottom.
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I did this in my Integra Type R. Looks amazing with no locks and was a straight swap. Have been meaning to do it to my 33 too.. but just havnt got around to it. Itl be a case of... doing it when its too late already. From memory i think the rear handles are the same shape as the fronts. Just Found this, Its a HUGE picture, so if you zoom in you can clearly see the handles are the exact same shape. So in theory they would bolt up. Go to a wrecker and ask them to grab one of each and compare the mounting points and where the rods attatch. Better than pulling it apart and finding out the hard way Kudos to whoever owns this.. dam fine looking 4door!
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So I Changed My Spark Plugs For The First Time ...
gotRICE? replied to Torques's topic in General Maintenance
Mine was like yours too.. but 49,000km. I was clearly suspicious.. yet i could not find a single reason why it would not be 49,000km. Unless someone took the time to change the carpet, seats (F+R) floor mats dash and steering wheel... Shit even the OEM exhaust looked like it had barely been used haha. And x2 on the underbody. Mine is definitely grey. But id also agree its possible it was done because of the spot rust etc from snow/salt. -
Nice! Not picking faults, but personally its frustrating when the photos are right at the bottom of the post.. cant you them into the body of the text so when you reference them they are right there? I hope dearly mine doesnt go.. i hate doing underdash things like this. Worst i have done is replace wiper mechanisms on my old Hiace.. whole dash HAS to come out. Even then its not easy. Thanks for doing the writeup! "added to bookmark"
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The fitment is the one of the most important influences. I would be pissed iff if i tried to save money buying a cheap FMIC then having to piss around for hours on end to make it fit. And most of the chinese examples from forum sponsors that members post still dont even fit right. Even after fabricating brackets, "hacking a bit off" or adding hoses etc etc. So much hassle. Some people may be happy with things not lining up properly and not sitting flush/even. I cant stand it.
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Gah now iv seen those photos i need to get rid of my lock
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What makes you say that? Id like to think they were pretty close to accurate if the reason for having it isnt just bling factor?
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I dont think a new topic was realy needed for the question, theres a big price gap between the jjr/yellow jacket and splitfire. Search is your friend. THeres a thread about Yellow Jackets with 10 pages of comments. And the same for JJR and SF. It all comes down to budget.
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Little Earth Wire From Ignitor Module
gotRICE? replied to RaZ_TuRbO's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Supporting mods including ECU? If not. try again. -
pfffft i could spool that after a hot curry Im sure theres a video somewhere of a Semi Truck with 4 of them strapped to it ok maybe not quite as big.. but still sizeable..
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Search. This gets asked 3 times a day. You cant nicely run an atmo venting bov with the stock ecu. The AFM reads X amount of air and the ECU fuels for that. Then when you lift off the accelerator, it dumps a part of that X amount of air. BUT the ECU doesnt know that, and still fuels for the original X amount. Therefore its now overfueld. Thus your stalling/backfiring etc. Just stick with the stock BOV with Stock ECU. Unless you get an AM ECU or piggyback to tune the overfuelling out, it will keep doing it.