gotRICE?

Instead of saying "XXX sounds good" Heres mine for reference Stock Turbo, 3" Custom Dump Pipe HKS Front pipe, de-cat HKS Hi Power """Silent""" lol. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NhhmY5TrH0...re=channel_page My apologies for the quality.. Vista compatibility issues :s

This is true, but i never adjust my seat anyway. Its at the furthermost bask position haha. The short f**kers can piss off I dont see any reason why you couldnt mount it on near the sub? But if you are worried it could be an idea to call the extinguisher company just to be safe.

Same thing happened to me when i fitted my FMIC. Damaged a bulb, put one i had at home in and id flashed fast. got to have the high wattage. the big bulbs

Depends on how easily you want to access it doesnt it? If you REGULARLY track the car, then the passengers side of the tranny tunnel works. Or make up a bracket that bolts to the same location of the front 2 bolts for your drivers seat. That way you can reach it without undoing your seat belt... IF the worst happens hehe. I have been contemplating the same thing. I think im going to mount mine behind the kick panel in the boot. (R33)

Cat heat sensor. Do you have a cat? If so, it could be blocked and getting too hot. You could try unplugging it from under the passengers? seat somewhere, or unbolt it from the cat and see if it goes out. Mine has a de-cat and the sensor is wedged under a heat shield, so unbolting it doesnt do any harm. And my light is not on. EDIT, so if the cat is blocked, then you will need to replace it Or get a De-cat pipe. But doesnt sound like the AUS is too friendly in that area.

When i re-install my gaskets on my rocker covers i put a thin layer of clean, new oil on the side that contacts the rocker cover, then press the gasket into place. Then apply a thin layer to the side of the gasket that contacts the head. Seems to work. I have taken my covers off 3-4 times now and haven't replaced the gasket yet, and have not had the slightest of leaks. And i also clean off any old oil/grit from the head before hand too. Pretty much just like putting on an oil filter

x2. I remember stripping a BB4 Prelude that i managed to write off when i was young. I put every bolt into a bag. And when i sold the motor/box combo i put the bag of bolts on the pallet. I think it was about 20kg worth! Biggest mistake. Those would have come in handy

Its a Myth. Drive a 32, and then a 33. Then go laugh at the person that told you. 2/4 door Integra Type R Quicker than a 32, s13 and s14 (if they are stock ) Cheap to run, pretty quick for an 1800 too. And they are coming down in price alot too.

My 33 rattles when they are fully up. You can adjust the tension on the little fabric feet things. But be aware that if you do tighten them up too much it puts a bit of strain on the bottom half of the mechanism. In mine, the little plastic roller balls in the track split. And guess what? You cant replace them. You have to buy a new regulator. Just be careful. And also if you have tints, think about that. The feed rub against the glass all the time. If you get on the right angle with un tinted glass you can see two perfectly clean lines from where it rubs. I would imagine it wouldnt be too nice on tints if its too tight? But keeping it to the thread, is there any other ways of adjusting them to stop rattles?

Oh my bad, and as to your Boost controller, id suggest finding the model number and trying to search for a manual online.

The wastegate doesnt sense boost pressure. There is a vacume hose attatched to an actuator. Kinda like a valve thing with a spring. The spring has a certain "PSI" to it. As in its stiffness. The spring is connecte to a rod, that is connected to the wastegate flapper. When the turbo creates enough boost to move that spring (lets say, 10psi for an R32 Actuator), it pushes the rod away, therefore opening the flapper, in turn letting exhaust gasses bypass the turbine so it does not make any more boost and stays spinning at a non life threatening speed. That, or you have a massive turbo and only want to run X psi due to other limiting factors Hope that makes a little bit of sense. I suck at the explain. Someone can add or delete. haha Infact, it might not even be a spring. Could just be some sort of diaphragm..

Dam my Blitz LM and using both cooler pipe holes! haha.

Hence why i didnt do it Good Luck! I seem to recall it being in one of those "what FMIC" threads. But not 100% sure.

There is a thread on here somewhere of a guy that modified the snorkel to fit the "over the fan" intercooler piping. There wasnt much to it, you just need to cut a piece out of the bottom and weld it back up when it fits over. It was in a Stagea if that helps your search i aint doing it!

x2. I put an Apexi pod into my 33. Got sick of the noise pretty quick. Changed back to stock airbox and Apexi panel and havnt looked back. Love the cute little spool noise the turbo makes. And might i add, noticed no change in the way the car drives.

Gee maybe they painted it red then. my mistake i just mentioned it because a friend of mine run it in his Supra for a while and the inside of the tip on his cannon muffler went red. I love SAU. Its the one place to go when you want to make someone get all uptight. Keep it up.

I would assume hes not stealing it or he wouldnt have said anything at all. Makes the inside of your exhaust red. Then everyone thinks you have a rusty one aaoouu.

Tape measure?

So the assumption would be that yes, it WILL fit, but not if you have the stock RB25 Intake manifold?

its not ideal. Id get it sorted out. And your turbo wont be fed a compressor wheel. It is the compressor wheel Maybe you mean engine haha.

dont do it. There is no magical cheap fix. I know, i was a automotive spraypainter Touch up pens are rubbish. They arent mixed to the correct consistency for a start and look like shit. Stick out worse. Go for the clear nail polish if you dont want it to rust, if you wont get it fixed soon That, or save up and get it fixed.

lol. I think it was around $600 NZD from RHD Japan. Expensive paper weight huh. Wont be able to recoop that cost easy. In the end it was getting so frustrating he took it to an auto sparky who found the bad earth in an hour or so. He had just returned his car to stock from an HKS turbo kit/z32/pfc etc. Im guessing it may have gotten damaged in storage. Bummer

Only problem with that is, the car will idle mint without an AFM, but as soon as you gve it any more revs it will cough and splutter even worse Not an ideal way to test it. lol. You'd be better off borrowing someones AFM that you know works first. A friend of mine bought two second hand ones, and then a brand new one, a good $800 all up. Ended up being a faulty earth in the ECU Sucks to be him.

That would depend on how much it cost to do the current, seemingly failed setup.

It can be done yourself. It just depends on if your confident in not f**king up the cam timing If your not, it would be wise to not attempt it.