Tezzah

Why not import locally?

The ebc wont do that IMO. Measure the position of the piston/shaft of the actuator with the car turned off. Turn it on and see if it has moved while idling. If it has moved (granted that the position of the shaft when the car is off is fully closed....) then the actuator is not capable of keeping the wastegate fully closed under no load, therefore an EBC wont help u. Just borrow someone's working actuator to eliminate it once and for all.

Woooooooooooot. Suddenly very proud right now Very happy it went to a good home.

I was going to suggest that and try it on the road. just run it and watch the guage, but its not too safe im thinking actuator is the culprit

You should be seeing 14psi at 4,000rpm. Undo the manual boost controller and see how quickly you get 10psi. You should get it around 3,250 off the standard actuator. What dump pipe do you have?

Please tell me thats my old RB30 block?

Heres come actual constructive information. (Please note, i stopped reading the pointless posts half way through this thread.) The car will run -near- perfect untuned. Think about it, when you are driving your car off boost (vacuum) it is -exactly- like driving the motor as Non-Turb. The ECU reads how much air is coming through the air flow metre, and injects fuel accordingly. It doesnt matter that you have bigger injectors, and low compression. It will run fine. It WOULD need a retune if you installed lower CC non turbo injectors. Comparitively, it will not produce as much torque as a higher compression Non Turbo motor. But you say she isnt after power. Wrong, wrong wrong. You really don't know what your talking about do you?

Im getting 6.5L/100km in my poosar

Worst question ever.

Yet you sell engine packages to people who haven't upgraded brakes...

"i fail to see" defines you perfectly.

I made a 228rwhp skyline because i wanted to do it for the experience so that i can be a keyboard warrior in threads like these when people pipe up their internet opinions. So by applying YOUR 'theory' in a literal sense, any performance modification to an engine must be coupled with performance modification to the decelerating system... Watch out boys, if you don't upgrade the brakes after installing a POD filter, Mitchy will report your dangerous ass to the ADR body. PS, Mitchy, why did you do fully sick hecktic burnouts in the car you only JUST bought, (on public roads to boot), then place it for sale after wards? Hmm, shall i find a nice .jpg for you aswell ?

Why increase the braking capacity of a vehicle that is still being driven on the road? You haven't increased the mass that needs to be decelerated (rb20det is going to be less then a passenger's weight difference in mass from the rb30e), nor have you increased the velocity of which you are decelerating from (if you have, you are speeding, and you shouldn't be). AND, if you are putting yourself into situations on public roads that require better braking capacity then standard. Hurry up and get it over with so that you don't continue to drive on the road. $3k budget is optimistic, good luck, if you make it with results that haven't already been proven, please take the time to make a detailed post of how you achieved it. Dsturbd, if you are so adamant about people upgrading brakes before motors.... why do you allow yourself to sell motors to people who haven't?

Live axel is great for the 1/4

34 wheels look nice in black without the hub caps