marksuxass

Also the plates have been removed when it was spotted.

Posting this on behalf of a friend of mine.... Hi there, I am the owner of the stolen R34 GTR VSpec in Perth which happened early morning on the 13/10/13 in the Winthrop/Melville area. Car was taken away from my driveway without breaking in to my house for car keys, in fact car keys are still with me. It had recently been spotted this morning 5.40am heading north towards Bullsbrook and at 7am this morning at Dog Swamp BP petrol station for a refuel. Could I please have everyone's help here to have a look out for my car, I have made a police report however they are very slow and showed lack of interest in locating my stolen car. For those of you familair with the vehicle you would know about the money that was put into this vehicle. Lets do what we can to get it back to its owner!!!

Let us know if that shaft give you any vibrations! Most carbon shafts do unfortunately

BOOM!

Cut a long story short, The owner got f**ked around bigtime! Basically had another business he wanted to concentrate more on so selling the shop was on the cards. Had a buyer willing to purchase Xspeed but at the last moment the new buyer bailed! One thing led to another and this was the outcome.

I use to work for Xspeed before it closed. Was an unfortunate close! Ant is now at Fabcar and they also have Xspeeds old dyno. I don't think there taking on any tunning just yet as the dyno isn't completely setup!

The "same" in the sense they run the same type of rod/adjustment system regardless of having a booster or not. In regards to the adjustment anyone who has fitted an after market clutch (say a twin plate) would have adjusted this rod to get the correct pedal adjustment. Just be carefull when adjusting. You always need about 2-3mm freeplay. No free play will lead to excessive clutch wear, and too much will lead to a high grab point. Oh an working on vehicles 5 days a week for almost 7 years, I think I have the "know" to give out this kind of advice

If you have had a cooler pipe pop off, you have more than likely fouled the spark plugs now. Will be worth taking them out and checking/replacing them and re-testing.

Should be the same on a GTST, Just "unlock" the 14mm nut and adjust the rod accordingly?

Try Matty at New Era parts. He is a member on these forums. www.neweraparts.com

Will have one forsale soon. Comes with Tomei sump baffle. No front diff/pinion though.

Id be checking all the power/earths to your ECU. Checking the ECM relay would be a good start.

Havent Tomei revised there expreme manifolds? (welded on the inside now also?). In regards to the plenums. I was advised to run a nismo plenum by my tuner. He stated that running one would enable the car to be leant on harder, and would also help in "resistance to pre-ignition" whilst tunning. I to am running much the same setup as you.

Try a slide hammer? Bolt it to the rear section through original bolts holes and give it a good hit. If they doesnt get it who knows what will!

Any one got clips of one fitted to a vehicle giving it full noise?

Replace the word early with late/vice versa

Doing some research for the actual advantages of 24U vs O5U, I contacted Endless-r in japan. They claim that the older rb26 blocks (used in the late model r32's) have the same nickel content as a 24U N1 items. They also claim that from years of being used it has "heat treated/strengthened" the block even further. The majority of the builds they do will have an older 05U block as the base rather then the 24U item. Have seen plenty of 05U blocks crack (my old workshop had shelves upon shelves of them) but the majority of them where from earlier model GTR's (long nosed r32, r33 and r34). Usualy go between the coreplugs under the turbos, and in worse cases they will pop the core plug out. Also pretty common around the starter motor too. Never seen a 24U block crack. For me 24U block would be a must if your gonna chase more power/rape it.

What power you aiming for? I got a friend running a 35r on an rb25, standard internally, standard cams, 740cc's bigger fuel pump, Z32 and a decent tune. Makes just short of 500hp.

I know you can extend your warrarnty period for a fee, not sure if Nissan are doing it free of charge to the owners of the 35r though.

With ignition on does your engine light illuminate?, If not then sounds like your ECU has no power. If all good remove CAS and spin it with your hands, re-check spark and put your hand over the injectors and see if you can feel them pulsing(clicking).

Hylomar gasket spray is a must. Very good stuff. If you where located in Perth I would have sold you a spare Tomei inlet/throttle body metal gasket set I have.

Best tool I found for the IAC valve was a flex head ratchet spanner. But see what you can get in there i spose!

Check your basic's, air/fuel/spark. Be good to check your plugs first as stated above. Make sure they arent fouled. If they are looking pretty good, id start looking into the fuel side of things. Maybe check fuel pressure and your cam sensor. Hope that helps!

Have done a few of these in the car. Best way is to remove the clutch and brake boosters. You can leave the master cylinders still attached to the lines, just unclip them at the firewall and move them out the way. There will be 3 bolts holding your IAC valve to the manifold, they need to be removed, diff breather tube needs to be removed where it bolts to manifold, also the bracket for the oil pressure sensor and maybe your clutch/brake booster Vac hardlines. From memory with all those unbolted its all easy street. Id recommend a good 1/4 socket set with a good uni joint and some decent rachet ring spanners(flex head will be good too). Make sure you have a good feel of all the hoses while its all off (if i was you id be getting all new GENUINE hoses to save yourself the trouble later down the track). With the throttle bodys make sure after you have cleaned them to check the throttle plates are still sealing in its housing ok. Most times when you clean the throttle bodys out you will need to re-seal them as there is a wax which forms a "perfect seal" between the plate and its housing. Can you use the Tomei throttle coat which work a treat. Hope that helps!