sewid

I bought my last desktop over the net from AusPCMarket who used to have their shop in gladesville but now is in Silverwater or somewhere around there. http://www.auspcmarket.com.au/ They will assemble it for you and have a range of pre-defined systems you can choose from (click the "systems" link on the home page). Their website is always up to date on prices and while it's not the 100% cheapest around it is competitive since all their prices include delivery. As far as spec goes, I went with a dual core AMD 64 and i throw quite a lot of shit at it and it still goes damn fast. Dual cores mean you can be playing a game and alt-tab and you still have an entire cpu core to work with in the background. As for motherboards i can recommend anything by DFI, the more you pay the more features you get. These are designed for gamers pretty much. I got a 19" Benq LCD with it and its pretty decent although of course the bigger the better and the Dell 24" LCD is looking pretty good these days if you can find it on special. 1gb memory at the very minimum and SATAII Hard drive(s) as big as you can afford. With the memory, try going for a brand name matched pair of modules (like Corsair) since im pretty sure most chipsets access memory faster in pairs these days. The video card is quite important whether you play a lot of games or not and spending more is better. For under $500 you can have a GeForce7900GT that will handle anything you can throw at it today and for a while to come. PCI-E x16 (replaced AGP) cards are what you want to look at, making sure the motherboard you choose has the capability to use them.

I was experiencing this last night and this morning I cleared my cache and it is now gone.

As a thread "VIN's you want fasted" was pretty successful so I think we should restart it with some guidelines on what you can do to make it work: 1) Your VIN number is the Vehicle Identification Number from the Japanese factory. It contains your model number followed by the build number of you vehicle. Examples: - BNR32001000 - ECR33003928 - BNR34000897 When the car comes to australia the VIN number is prefixed with 6U9000 and you're Australian VIN number becomes 6U9000BNR32001000 (for example). When posting VIN's all we need is the part of the VIN number after 6U9000. 2) The VIN number is found on the factory blue compliance plate. 3) The FAST program is no longer available for download anywhere as far as I know, is around 2.2gb so I can't just send it to you on MSN (sorry). 4) I do not work for Nissan (sorry again). Hopefully someone can merge the threads or something....

That is not a VIN number. VIN numbers have your model in them like ECR33xxxxxx or BNR32xxxxxxx. Cant do anything with whatever that code is.

That is not a VIN number. VIN numbers have your model in them like ECR33xxxxxx or BNR32xxxxxxx. Cant do anything with whatever that code is.

That is not a VIN number. VIN numbers have your model in them like ECR33xxxxxx or BNR32xxxxxxx. Cant do anything with whatever that code is.

haha do what you thinks best. I'm pretty sure nearly everyone on this forum could be described as pedantic when it comes to their car.

I have reported things like this to the police before and always something is done about it. If you were shaken up enough to report this guy there is a good chance he's done it before and someone else has reported him so the police know exactly who it is already.

I find it hard to believe the nismo pump was causing you to lean out unless it was old and buggered. How much hp are you estimating to end up with from this tune? Older versions of PowerFC are pretty common in R32's the only difference I know of is in the hand controller version you need to use with them. I suppose there could be other differences as well I haven't looked into it closely. Maybe he needed to send a hand controller over from NZ.

Z-tune is running a Nismo one. Mine's is anyone's guess.

I have found the exact same issue on new rotors with Bendix ultimates on my R32. I spent a lot of time and consequently money trying to stop this squeeling. I have installed a shim kit etc but it's still squeeling. Basically it seems that Bendix ultimates have changed somehow (or they manufactured SOME that were bad) and are now a pretty annoying brake pad. I'm trying to find a suitable replacement and will be asking Bendix compensate me for these faulty pads.

I used to feel the same. I got rid of the factory turbos to avoid sudden engine death syndrome due to failed stockers. Now i dont worry anywhere near as much and make a lot more power.

haha that magazine is wrong but it's not the first time one of those kinds of mags were blatantly wrong. Some GTR's came with oil coolers from the factory, and it was an option for sure on the R34 GTR and probably the others.

Nope. You're losing power in day to day driving. Hot air in the engine bay directly fed into your engine. Doesn't take a genius to figure that out. A partition blocking the engine bay heat will work I suppose but unless you spend a lot of money or time fabricating your own it's gonna look crap and cops love pointing out that kind of thing. If it's just a track car then yeah maybe keep the pods. Just take a look at some of the best GTR's out there, Mines, Nismo Z-Tune, theyre all using the factory airbox. The GTR airbox is a pretty decent item when you look at it closely. Just grab a K&N or Splitfire panel filter and away you go.

If you're making less than 600hp then go back to the standard airbox and problem solved. If you really are not interested in dressing up the engine bay then there's not much point in using pod filters on a stock or around 400-450hp GTR the airbox is hardly a restriction. As long as you've removed the factory plastic plate from the airbox wheel arch intake.

Mate why are you taking risks with your car like this. Take it to someone who knows what they're doing. Leave that workshop and never return.