BANGN

Ive been using E-tax for a while in doing my tax return, and its that time of year again to rub my hands together for some money back. This year I have 5K worth of tools to claim, which with my income/tax payed and deductions I am due to get 2200 back basically according to the Tax Estimate page, now I hadnt worked out the depreciation on the tools when I worked that out, Now even If I claimed another couple of grand for example for depreciation, I am still only due about 2200.. OR, if I added another couple of grand just to see what it did in my receipts list, it made no difference to my tax return, it only reduced the "taxable income" amount on my Tax Estimate page. So it seems almost like there is maximum dollar amount I can claim perhaps. Even if take 1K worth of tools off my list to claim, the amount on my estimate is still 2200.. bit weird. Hoping someone might be able to clear up what the hell is going on here..

Allstar/hyperdrive/C-RED,KYP look in consolidated workshop thread. Any of perths top jap tuning/repair shops will know what they're doing. They arnt hard. Dont take it to just any mechanic.

read this.. http://www.driftwork...ting-guide.html just check the pinouts for the 34 ECU for RPM signal and ignition signal on the ECU. Dont forget to cut the wire for a 6cyl. They are pretty simple to wire in, I did it with dick all wire experience. thats going to be fun to setup on the auto trying to get it to work at the precise time it changes gear.

sick! thanks heaps!

Bit of an odd one, im wanting to weigh each corner of my car, any ideas on where I could do this or and I asking something of the impossible in perth. I want to find out where the weight is distributed in the car so I can move things around.

I don't think series 1 had a cable, series 2 didn't.

rotors are pretty easy, remove the caliper, the rotors are floating so they should pull off, if not there is a couple of small threaded holes on the hat of the rotor, put in a metric bolt to size, pretty sure they're a 10mm headed bolt. Wind the bolt in and it will pop the rotor off if its seized on. Just make sure the mounting surface is clean before you put your new rotor on, or you could have pulsations under braking. Dont forget to spray your rotors with some brake cleaner and wipe them to remove the film they use to protect the rotors from rusting in the box. The slotted rotors are directional too, so check you have them on the right way. hoses are pretty easy, there will be a U shaped clip holding the line to the strut assembly which you just pull out, then use the correct tool to undo the fittings off the caliper for the hose and off the car. You need a pipe spanner like this. using this tool will greatly reduce the chance of rounding those soft fittings, unfortunately it happens a lot because people smash on crappy open enders. Just do them up as tight as you pulled them off and move the steering side to side to make sure its not stressing/twisting the new hose. Then bleed the system starting from the LHR wheel, then RHR, LHF then the RHF. You Start from the furtherest wheel from the master cyl and work your way to the drivers wheel.

yer but if he doesn't know what he's doing, $300 is cheaper than an accident. If you're new to this have a go at doing your rotors and pads but dont attempt the hoses/bleeding unless you're being supervised by someone who can help you do the job correctly.

Just in case you don't know, just to cover your ass. If you plan on doing Automotive repairs/servicing, you need to be licensed. Might be worth calling em and checking your aircraft mechanic qualifications will be sufficient, I would sure hope so as I bet its more technical than working on cars! http://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/consumerprotection/content/Motor_Vehicles/Other_information/Frequently_asked_questions.html just there's big fines if you get caught unlicensed

glad it worked out mate, Ive used Kim a few times at my old work and always had good dealings.

Got 4 drums for free to anyone who might find them useful, 2 had oil in the new castrol ones, other 2 I found abandoned in an old lot.. I used them to support a car in the air so they are plenty strong. If you genuinely want them, let me know. I can just leave them out the front for you to collect. 0433 200 619 Located in Success Dan.

thats a shit insult, prob some old whinging dickhead that needs to justify his existance in life by writing shit insults

thats a good idea, hate those bloody things and usually chuck em in the bin. Ill have a squiz when they deliver me 20 copies of it tonight

Kim's Skim Brake & Clutch Services - High Wycombe, WA PO Box 2023, High Wycombe WA 6057, Australia Phone number0419 939 699 This guys a champion.. hes a mobile guy, just have the rotors off and he will come to you.

Have an S13 shell, not rolling, completely stripped with no glass or anything that needs to go to scrap. I have called a few places on gumtree and a couple of places off google that do car body removals (any condition apparently) but no one can pick it up cos its not rolling. So im probably going to need someone with a HIAB.. I don't want any money for it, I just want it gone. anyone know who could do such a thing? cars located in success.

Well much to my shock, never seen this before however in the last week I have noticed a fair bit of police activity on the fwy, much of them pulling over cars between Russell road and Armadale Road. North and Southbound. I was traveling across the Russell road bridge that goes over the fwy about 30 minutes ago and spotted a police bike who had pulled up on the walking path for the bridge/overpass, over the southbound lane with a radar gun and a hand radio. Pin pointing cars that were speeding down the fwy to another officer was sitting behind the bridge on the fwy, hidden on his bike waiting for the speeding motorist. so be warned approaching overpasses from now on. Especially on that bit after Armadale road, because of all the crap traffic thats where it frees up and most motorists nail it down there in frustration of all the traffic soup they just sat in til Roe hwy. Not many peeps do 100 down there.

have fun lining them up... just buy a new emblem imo

I would be more worried about water getting into the spark plug valley

make sure you are getting the HARD rubber, as the other type people sell is just like foam and is rubbish. I have some next to me that I will probably end up using for its purpose on keeping crap from going under my garage door. otherwise the hard stuff just gets held on with screws and load washers

I think you're going to have a hard time fitting it. they bolt up around the sides, front and rear of the frame that the glass slides in. They bolt to the frames around the window/doors. im a bit doubtful you're going to have holes ready to go for this to support it as they're quite heavy you will need every support possible to keep it stable. Also you will not only need to cut a hole in the roof, but also make a frame around the hole for the glass to push up into and to give the roof skin some strength. They arnt water sealed against the roof, the water runs down past the glass, into the frame and on each corner is a rubber hose that leads down through the C pillar and A pillars and through the floor and onto the road. tbh not worth butchering a car to put a sunroof in.

you did well there ^ Ive purchased two now, both from import wreckers for $100

So I have a completely bare metal S13 thats been sitting very patiently for some love. Inside, outside and underneath is naked. I want to get it sprayed in 2K, unsure exactly what colour as yet but so far im leaning on the 45a silver from subaru. Im not going to be shooting the colour but I am going to be getting it up to primer. Heres what I plan on doing, I need those who know what they're doing to point out if im doing anything wrong in the process. Underbody - Rough up the underbody with the wirewheel to make it fresh - Spray down rust converter to pick up any flecks and clean with wax and grease remover. - Spray the underbody in an etch primer - make any repairs underneath and spray down a high fill primer - Spray down a rubber based stone guard Exterior/Interior *cabin will be sprayed in basic factory looking acrylic - Rough up the metal with a wirewheel to make it fresh - Spray down rust converter to pick up any flecks and clean with wax and grease remover. - Spray etch primer - Make repairs where required - Spray down primer - Block the outside of the car with bondo and block it back down to primer. - Spray final coat of primer and deliver to a panel shop to spray in 2pk so thats what my plans are anyway, please feel free to point out any mistakes that ive made. I want to make sure im going down the right path before I even start. also should I find out from the panel shop on what brand of products to use so it mixes well with their products, or does it matter as long as its for 2Pk work. Thankyou

32r rio is narrower, the bumper is probably springing back when he's trying to push it onto the rio. The holes at the back in the grill area wont line up either.

I would seriously look at the combination switch/stalk, they give these sorts of issues when they fail.

Hi there, im currently renting a property and want to get a 15A power supply so I can run my new compressor. Now if it was my own house I would go the whole hog and just get a 15a powerpoint put in the garage (currently got a 10a point), but I figure its probably going to be cheaper to get it put either in the meterbox or next to it. Then I can just run a 10M 15A extension cord to when I need to use the compressor. can anyone assist in doing this for me? and approx cost. I have permission from the house owner to do this. cheers