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iseekool

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About iseekool

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    Rank: RB25DET

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Victoria

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  • Car(s)
    R34, '83 Bluebird, IS200
  • Real Name
    MARK
  1. These are considered "appliance cars". They do everything OK on the street and are well priced, which makes them somewhat boring to "brochure enthusiasts". If only it was RWD or turbo AWD with ATTESA. Call it a Nismo sedan (or something catchy) and watch the money fly in, especially once Ford and Holden stop production of the falcodore.
  2. Hi all, The wheels are still for sale. Price drop $700.00 ono I've been told its hard to find these wheels in such immaculate condition. Regards Mark
  3. Hi all, I didn't want to open a new topic/thread. Does anyone here know what happened to the pulsar.org.au forums? Has it closed down? Haven't been able to access it as of late. Cheers
  4. I figured it out, the N15 S2 Pulsar uses an older style connector. If you happen to be purchasing the Aerpro branded adaptors, make sure it is for "Nissan 1987+" not the "Nissan 1995+" Pic attached.
  5. Thanks. Your basic guide is very helpful - taking of the center trim was easy enough to remove and so is the headunit... however the adaptors I bought (ISO to Nissan) are completely different. Seems the car doesn't use the standard "Nissan" plugs - the "look like" the ones for a Holden. My wife's car is an Aus spec N15 series 2 with the factory CD player (Eurovox 8580N) - I'm going to assume the radio wiring was probably updated to accomodate the CD player as the N15 series 1 had a tape deck. Can someone advise which is the best adaptor to get. I'd like to avoid hacking up the factory wiring.
  6. e85 would be sweet on a NA+t conversion though
  7. Haven't had a chance to change the O2 sensor yet. But cleaned the TB, PCV, AFM and air box temp sensor. Idles smoother and seems to have more urge when I reach the 3000rpm mark. The other factor that maybe contributing to bad fuel economy was my wheel alignment was way off. Had the wheels aligned this morning. Front left wheel was toed in by 3mm! It was actually visibly noticeable - I just never cared to look.
  8. I forgot to mention - I did change the panel (air) filter. Also changed the coolant too, recommended 33% mixture - don't think that makes a difference in fuel economy though. The auto seems to shift and operate consistently - the trans fluid level seems correct (I haven't changed the fluid in it yet though). Regular acceleration it seems to shift up at around 2500rpm to 3000rpm. Light acceleration it upshift more or less at 2000rpm. At 60km/h it revving at 1500rpm and at 100km/h revving at 2500rpm. New 02 sensor it is... I'll tell you guys how it all goes afterward.
  9. Hi Fellas, I'm going slightly off topic. But the car is still an N/A and a Nissan Mrs. and I recently bought an N15 Pulsar 1.6L Auto sedan (granny spec??) as a our runabout/train station/shopping center/park anywhere kind of car. Car is 100% stock and has 170,000km on the clock. I've been driving it lots lately (to work and back ~100km round trip) to get a proper grasp of the fuel economy as I've suspected the car is guzzling fuel, as we all know short trips are a bad gauge of measuring fuel economy - mainly used to go to the local train station/shops. My route is mixed urban and freeway driving. I'm not too happy with the fuel consumption. I'm getting around 9L/100km when intentionally babying it and 10L/100km when driving "normal" (not thrashing it). I thought this kind of car should be using around 7 to 8L/100km - being realistic, I don't believe the figures posted by Redbook (quoted combined 6.2L/100). I've made sure tires are inflated to the correct pressure and did a an oil (Nulon Semi-Syn 10w40) and filter change. I'm currently running the car on Shell V Power every fill in the hope it will clean the engine. Just wondering is anybody out there is having the same consumption with the same car or a car with a similar sized engine, 1.6L Auto. For comparison purposes my Lexus IS 2.0L 6 speed manual gets 9L/100 and my R34 2.5L auto gets 11L/100, for the same route....
  10. Sorry to bring back an old post. So will the N1 water pump fit up to an RB25DET NEO engine with no mods? I have an R34.
  11. Hi guys, Apologies for the thread revival. I have installed a Blaupunkt New York 800 in my R34. I've used an aeropro (from Repco) ISO to Nissan adaptor. Anyway... the blue wire (ant control) as shown on the OPs pic - where do I actually connect this to on this particular HU? On a slightly unrelated question - is there some sort of auto dim function (wire) for the HU when I turn on the headlights? As I find the HU way too bright during the night and am forced to manually dim the unit via software settings.
  12. ^ This. Tires, Suspension, high flow panel filter, high flow cat, brakes from a Gtt Don't do anything else
  13. Thanks for the advice guys. Due to circumstances we have done a complete 180. We have ended up buying an auto Pulsar N15II 1.6 sedan instead. Our reasons: - car will be used as a "train station" and "shopping centre" hack. - cheap to insure. - car itself is cheap as chips, we plan to use the extra cash for other things instead. - uses barely any fuel and so easy to maintain. Might think about the SUV/AWD route once circumstances change again
  14. Just to add to this thread. (Hope you all find this useful) Recently changed my outer tie rod ends on my R34 RWD. You can use the Honda outer tie rod end part number "53540-SK3-E01". Exact same as PTE926-14. Don't get ripped off by some sellers claiming that the outer tie rod ends for RWD R34 are exclusive. The same outer tie rod end will also fit N15 pulsars and A32/33 Maxima (possibly other Nissan models too). It will also fit Rover and some Volvo models too. Cost me $48.00AUD from eBay. (July 2014)
  15. I forgot to mention. Will fit V35 and R34GT/t with no modifications. Will also fit other Nissans - not too sure if modifications are required though. Will also fit IS200/300 and Supra with adaptor rings (you can buy the rings from eBay). Dropping to $900.00 to make the price a little bit more fair.
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