bcozican

Oem std front sway and new oem end links mate Rear recently moved to 24mm whiteline sway using the links that came with that

No running a bmc replacement under bonnet. Pretty much a pedal box with individual masters just using std pedals and have bosch accelerator pedal foe dbw also Does the job but def not the best... but like verything itsnon the list on the list. Maybe next year if I win lotto

Something similar was actually discussed not long ago as well as a spray into the cooling system Thanks mate, sorta just had a crack. Why not. Pretty much proper pedal box and flappy paddles maybe and refine Yeah mine came over with setup in it from my data and other stuff then got refined when he was here Lol 😅 yeah did see the bosch situation... not great no thanks Wtac '23 ...Have my fastest hotlap that I put up on my iface page and the lap after that. Everything else disappeared somehow but wasnt that special anyway Dont know whoe to put it up on here coz im technologically challenged hahaha 😆

Have alot of bracing on std front subframe now and chromoly version is in the works. R33 oem tie rod ends have become a consumable Its like anything. Balance. Ask an aero guy putting brakes ducts in theyll throttle you. Brakes guy wil need ducts. Engine guy. Need more air for cooling but the aero guy is gonna kill you. Its all a balance We are talking about running these at max limit of everything for one lap or two Like ive said previously, these did the job enough yes, but also tryna push some more now and id rather not f**k around and find out trying to brake at the 50m mark not the 65m mark and it gone wrong type thing Yeah look at 600hp and 80% braking in a race i could prob get 3 decent laps out of it as is. Maybe more. Ive never raced..... Regardless the rears are / were std 34 gtr 30 yrs old brembos with a single piece rotor. Thats just not going to be optimal then you throw into the equation the the tyres are only really good for 1 lap.. tops 2 (but always proven not as fast all things being equal) Then you put everything together above as discussed and you get to a decision. And this was mine I used to look at the topish time attack cars and honestly used to think all this was more simple and sort of black and white buy good expensive stuff, this and that and race but as always everyone does things differently and not everything is that easy and works that way. Im trying to listen and follow those way more experienced than me rather than guessing anymore Either way, by no means am I saying im special or awesome, I put some of what Im up to and all this out there for people to see and read where usually unless you know the person or workshop with a car like this you dont get to see or hear alot about the happenings most of the time. At least I havent Opnions, questions and debates are good and welcome

100% Good stuff

totally agree which is why I have stayed with what Ive got till now and ran full r34 gtr brembos for years till I went past that limit obviously the above brake kit is genuinely to the upper end of any braking system needed for most motorsport and maybe overkill but still have to have the hardware to do the job and not just Even just sprint/ time attack 1 or 2 lap dash type thing what I have on now, which is at the lower end of where youd want to be, at SMP in 14 hot laps over 3 days I chewed about 70% of a new rotor and pads where ran at 60 % of max power half the time and other at 80% power the brakes did OK for my first go but also really only because of ABS was letting me go past where I should. We also found by T8 hairpin on first hot lap it was starting to get hmmmm and T10 i was pretty much trail braking through necessity due to brake fade and thats on the ABS let alone another lap will now be looking to run at least 20% more power than previously + some other things on a full hot lap So if you go a kit in between what I had and now and the above - itd still be an awesome big brake kit so same would still apply its tyre grip and would it do the job yes - but but calculation and speaking with others once again just or still running it at 90% capacity and tbh the price difference isnt that much Hopefully with this there are no if, but, maybes and once again the only let down may become driver skill / ability which Im OK with

nice - pain in the butt to get that in and setup/ installed but good when done - you running sensors off hubs not shafts yeah ? it will be interesting thats for sure might take a bit of getting used to def think lucky have setup data to adjust ABS etc to optimise asap and just tweek from there I gather It will be - not going to be running the max high coeffcient sprint pad just a normal race pad as got told "it'll rip ya face off" otherwise 😅 Tis alot - hopefully now never go wanting i'll say 3 - 4 weeks tops for for testing again .. car is very close and im on holidays for a bit and waiting for e85 delivery (welcome to being in w.a haha)

3 - 5 mmm to spare on barrell measurement exchange across the tasman 😆 if not have contingencies in place and will take it down to 385 tis 36mm rotor

Changed tact with the thoughts on the braking situation have gone with a tried and proven complete GT monoblock Brembo setup Fronts: we should be able to squeeze a 395 rotor in, just .... Rear with 355 rotor Should do the job 🤔

fingers crossed good ! yes its an issue haha didnt even know about insta sau must increase my non existent e - game !

diffuser is bigger than I thought but its the same as everyone else as universal so maybe the lack of bumper or camera angle... or its just big 100% can see the value a flat floor would bring though to join it all together Yes planning to be over east previous to WTAC and not just at SMSP - just need to organise storage of all my stuff + car etc as Im not going to drive over and back multiple times its not horrible but its really not the most fun and I just dont have the time either ABS - big $ yeah + install etc etc. the spend of cash still comes down to the individual ... I did fine without it but 100% I am braking better with it and have picked up time - that just comes from me as an amateur being able to push it harder without the threat of locking a tyre and 1) screwing a tyre and 2) going shooting off into the sand which adds confidence In essence you can use your brakes to their limit - pretty much every time In addition - I dont know your rules and regs but the wheel sensors im now using for traction control and the torque control mapping model for the Motec

Some know some dont but I'll try keep this updated as this is where it started Last bit of aero added rear diffuser and side duel element canards We added a header tank now just to run some water lines and give it a tickle. Hopefully by end of March im in the seat and we can start working and the organic spacer All fancy parts etc aside. I'll drive whatever ive got as hard as I can but I hope we just have a balanced car that only needs tweeks here and there... which never happens 😆 Side note: that poor gtr front bar has been chopped, added to, changed and riveted to an inch of its life lol and was considering putting a rear bar back on now I have a diffuser just for looks but thats not just a straight fit on which the extra wide body and the rear qtr being cut so high and also the amount of this I have to get to under the back now is redic so it all might just stay like this for ease 😕

depends how much you wind it up maybe 🤞 little bitta flavour for you... newly developed duel element front canards in coming

😆 soon, dyno about 2 or 3 weeks away plus new aero additions are on way over too then ill hit the track again me thinks

Pretty sure there are 2 sizes of bushings at the bottom mate. I remember having this issue at some stage along the way also

Because build thread... Pulled the fab apart, I got on the paint brush and tidied it all up. My bit is good from far but far from good but hey... racecar Now to run some new oil and ps lines bang some bigger injectors in and send it

solid effort mate did quite a bit a racing and not HUGE breakages for the year considering VET package looks good !

ive not had any cracking or anything of seam sealer/ welds or anything my cage goes right through to the front strut towers so maybe my car is rigid already so doesnt effect as much

100% fully weld im not feb guy / car builder etc but I dont see why you wouldnt want as much rigidity as possible + when are you ever going to remove or repair ?

😁 it does the job nicely! Theoretically you get higher top end We can swap !? Think we could manage the 300 rpm although dont think I need more top end 😅

left the tubs though... for now #notatubeframe

it better go good 😅🤞 The splitter is supported at the back on the front cross member and has a frame at the front that just slides into the slots in black either side of the intercooler - these are connected to the chassis rails There is an air dam built onto the splitter the bumper then just sits up against the air dam, seals against the intercooler and its pulled tight and dzus clipped on each side

Currently working on increasing the effectiveness of the cooling system while simultaneously improving aero. Previously with oem everything up the front it was hard to package everything and get it working efficiently but we did a pretty good job. Discussions where had and the move has been made to stack the intercooler/ oil cooler and rad together, completely seal it and vent it out the bonnet. We stopped short of a full tubeframe front .. well just because... but everything got moved forward and tilted forward The intercooler has been flipped back to traditional position, this has increased the cooler piping length but quite a bit but considering how this thing it tuned and manages boost, response will not be affected Previously had a 25 row oil cooler and carbon shroud with 4" ducting going from the front bumper directed into the wheel well. This actually cooled very well but considering I was doing all this, I want to to the wick up a bit more and aero wise it wasnt super effective having hot air going on the tyre, brakes and into a high pressure wheel well there is now a 50 row Setrab sitting sealed inbetween the intercooler and radiator. The venting will obviously go out the bonnet reducing under bonnet high pressure area and taking away unwanted air going under the car. The tyre warmer turbo/ front tub cutout has now been sealed off which we previous didnt get to Keep on ticking away this bit is nearly finished will now pull it apart and make it a little bit more pretty also though the raw chromoly and ally go ok i think too

Think that part of the discussion developed from my hub bearing issues not in relation to subframe situation Double A arm and associated upright wld solve alot of issues but... yeahhhhh

I just remembered ! https://kiwicnc.com/en-au/products/nissan-r32-33-34-gtr-motorsport-uprights little bit out on pricing though - rounding error I sound like a performance workshop now 😆🤐