Don Dada

That nissan ecu is a boss!!

Ive heard those O5U pistons are best for high boost, so 28psi on a big frame like gt42 will be a walk in the park. Just scrape off the carbon and polish up the top of those pistons with some autosol and it will be like brand new again.

Yer...A little extra carbon on 1&2 but thats it.

Seems like the bottom line is the missing constant 12volt to pin 58. Do you get a 12v at pin 58 when you plug in the oem ecu?.....because I cant see the oem ecu working without a constant 12v there anyway. And dont worry about pin 3&5 on the relays as well, they could be either way around once one goes to pin 49,59and 109, and the other goes to a 12v once the relay is energized. Likewise with pin 1&2, once one goes to pin 16 and the other to a 12v Have you tried placing the missing10A fuse as per Pauls faq? Otherwise, you are good to go with with hard wiring it as you suggested.

The column right next to where you entered the 66% is where you have to enter the new latency values you have worked out. ie. New latency - Old latency = value to enter. I believe the rb25 inj are 370cc and 0.528ms Set back the inj lag vs batt to the default values and also dont forget to select z32(vg30) in the aif flow options on tab 3

You can get det even though you throw alot of fuel in there, as with ign timing. Best bet is to get it on the dyno, set up your fuel and then play with timing, Add a couple of degrees at a time and see how it responds power wise and look at knk levels of course. When you reach the point where it makes no more power or very little for the changes made, back it off a few degrees for safety and yo should be good to go......Only way to know, as you wont feel these changes on the road.

What is the problem? You find knk reading is too low?

It should have been spun manually every few mths, but in any case you could remove the spark plugs and throw like a cap full of oil in each cylinder and probably just add some thru the filler cap....But most important when its time to start unplug the cam sensor and turn it over for a while so some oil will circulate before actually starting.

Try another ignitor and CAS

Stock rb26 ecu run around 24* at 0.9bar, so youre a little advanced ign wise around peak torque area. You should get a wideband on it and look at the afrs just to make sure. Ive heard audible knk from a rb26 and the controller only read 30's so be careful with it especially in the off to on boost areas at cruising speed in the higher gears

What machine work you refer to? If i get a set of used valves(12),wouldnt it be just a matter of giving them all a fine lap and just checking clearances to make sure they are within spec?

Well got some time to scrap out the intake cam and manifold and pour kerosene in the ports and well it instantly emptied out no. 3&4 and it also leaked out all of the other cylinders but at varying rates, some just barely seeped through. Is it supposed to seal 100% so that absolutely no kerosene should pass through? Remember 1,2,5,6 read basically perfect compression.

Has anyone find any online calculator or link to get proper results?

whats the reason for not using back an oem gasket?

Car does daily duties on this set up > http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-42 And the above for a drag day. Notice the backend was changed and also no WMI is used alongside the C16 as it kills the power. Afrs are around 12.0 so injs have a little room still.....and so does the turb Havent sorted the suspension for it to hook and put down an Et yet tho.....