full_stick

bump. Gotta cheap price for R33 full suspension assembly can anyone tell me whether this will fit my R34 GTR???

I've had an accident in my R34 gtr and was wondering how similar the assembly is to the R33 and R32's I've snapped the axels and demolished most of the front suspension. Also any ideas on what brands I should be looking for? Coilovers are fine but have been dislodged so most of the parts will need to be replaced.

Just wondering how similar the R33 GTRs suspension is to the R34's??? Am I able to use castor arms and other suspension parts from the 33's???

Unfortunately I'm in Darwin so there's absolutely nothing up here in the way of parts so I'll just be taking photos and posting them up here or finding a copy of the R34 manual and getting part numbers. Hopefully something will come up. I know I'm already up for new mags, front bar and fenders which is fine but its the running gear i'm concerned about. pretty much folded the front tyres outwards so pushing the fenders out and snapping the axels

So as you can see I've had an accident in my R34 GTR, my pride and joy . So all I'm interested in now is getting it back on the road as soon as possible. The car has gone over a gutter head on at high speed, (don't ask), and pretty much snapped all axels, destroyed all suspension and literally have the front wheels hanging on by a thread. All 4 mags are buckled which I can easily replace as well as the front bar and both fenders, again easily replaced. So my main concern is getting this back on the road asap and I'm going to try and do a majority of the work myself. I'm still waiting for insurance but am not sure if they're going to cover it yet. I'm assuming the steering and anything else connected directly to the wheels is damaged. I'd really like to know where I can source these sort of parts from??? Engine and gearbox appears to be fine but I will confirm over the weekend. Once I've taken the wheels and fenders off I'll take some photos to give you all a better idea of what I'm lookin at.

I do live in Darwin so I will do this, just want to know will this drastically reduce engine temps??? When I'm in start stop traffic car is no worries and remains in the 80s which was normal. Just don't want to go through this extensive process again when I can get a pressure test for free according to a local workshop. I do however really don't want to have to replace it now as I just did the clutch twice in 6 months as well as tune and other things so really can't afford new radiator at the moment and I do want a decent PWR or ARC item.

So I've properly bled the radiator as instructed, and checked thermostat is working and still no difference so I guess its either, radiator cap highly unlikely, water pump or radiator now...

Both gauges the digital and the one on the dash show mega high temps including some steam to verify, so definitely not a sensor problem...

OFF TOPIC: Just a quick note, I should still have the old working thermostat (if the current one is broken gonna test this weekend) but my mechanic who did the service on it taxed it and never returned, I'm going to go get it back!!! Scamming mechanic charged my friend for a turbo that he didn't even put on his car, still had the stock one on it after the engine rebuild. Also blew one of my turbo's while doin the 100 000km service the bastard....

To be honest your probably right I don't know how to bleed out the air. So all I did was basically drain all the fluid by removing the bottom hose of radiator, put a hose in the top of the radiator in an attempt to flush shit out while car was idling, reconnected hose, turned car off, filled radiator with coolant, then let idle again and attempted to put more fluid in but thinking that the bubbles would come out once car was idling but this really didn't happen and I couldn't really fit any more fluid in??? So thats what I did. Please tell me what I should have done... I love doing this stuff myself but there's just so much to learn....

I'm far from a mechanic mate just thought I'd replace the fluid in there and run some water through it after I'd let it drain to see if I could flush some of the shit out. Just trying to do a few things myself in an attempt to learn a few things and save a few bucks cos I'm broke and can't afford a new radiator.

In regard to faulty temp sensor, standard R34 gauge reads a degree or two higher than the power fc and from what I've read they use different sensors?? So don't think this is the case. Also steaming coolant sort of tells me that the high reading is correct lol jokes on me lol.

Hi guys, I've got an R34GTR and recently had my clutch replaced since the clutch replacement or recently after I've noticed my daily driving temps have significanlty increased. To keep temp level at close to 100 I have the car in sixth gear and 2000rpm anything over this will cause water temps to increase. I live in northern aus so its hot all day everday but this was never a problem before. Even a spirited drive wouldn't bring the the tempts upto 100, maybe close 95 or 96 before I'd slow it down and go back to normal driving to bring the temp down. For some reason my overflow bottle didn't have a lid/cap so I bought one yesterday and it was $16.30 for a milk carton lid from Nissan, so I put it on and filled it with coolant. Prior to this I'd flushed the radiator by removing the bottom rad hose putting a hose in the top of the rad and just idling the car which did absolutely nothing, mind you at that time the overflow tank was empty and and there was no lid on it. I can drive normally and the car doesn't go up to ridiculous temps but it still goes quite high like into the 90's in no time at all, so I'm always keeping an eye on temps, keeping revs low etc. My next thought was to check the thermostat is stuck closed or partially closed. I thought this was changed in service I did about 20K ago, along with the water pump, did 100k service very early. Thoughts???

I've got -5's and am running stock internals, with stock R34 cooler. What difference will this make??? I only run very low boost though as its my daily driver and I can't afford a rebuild at the moment.

SOLD